Marzocchi Pro w/ETA: Changing Oil?
 

Not finding anything in the manual except an admonition to do it every x hours.

Web site doesn't seem to have anything more.

Am I missing something?
--
PeteCresswell

(Pete Cresswell) wrote:
Not finding anything in the manual except an admonition to do it
every x hours.

Web site doesn't seem to have anything more.

Am I missing something?

If *I* can change the oil in my Marathon SL (and X-fly 100 before that),
then anyone can do it.

Bill "just RTFM and then do it" S.

S o r n i wrote:
(Pete Cresswell) wrote:
Not finding anything in the manual except an admonition to do it
every x hours.

Web site doesn't seem to have anything more.

Am I missing something?

If *I* can change the oil in my Marathon SL (and X-fly 100 before
that), then anyone can do it.

Bill "just RTFM and then do it" S.

Oops, see that you mentioned the manual. Look again.

Bill "Marzocchi manuals are the absolute worst (but should give oil levels)"
S.

"(Pete Cresswell)" wrote in message
...
Not finding anything in the manual except an admonition to do it every x
hours.

Web site doesn't seem to have anything more.

Am I missing something?
--
PeteCresswell

No you aren't missing it in the manual. Marz does that to promote
"authorized" mechanics work on the forks. You can do it yourself it is
easy. The thing that you should know is that the amount/height of the oil
from the top of the stanchions when the tops caps are off and compressed is
important. If you like the way the fork rides now and it isn't bottoming
out then just measure the amount of oil you take out and replace it with the
same amount.

RE/
The thing that you should know is that the amount/height of the oil
from the top of the stanchions when the tops caps are off and compressed is
important. If you like the way the fork rides now and it isn't bottoming
out then just measure the amount of oil you take out and replace it with the
same amount.

'Zocchi specifies the oil volume in ml - a Good Thing, I think compared to the
vagaries of measuring height as they had me doing on my X-Fly.

Only reason I'm changing the oil is that the damping function of the fork
doesn't seem TB working - regardless of adjustment..... gets too boingy-boingy
on repeated hits - like a car that keeps bouncing when you push down on the
front and the shocks are shot.
--
PeteCresswell

RE/

'Zocchi specifies the oil volume in ml

Funny thing, though: their web site's oil level specs don't seem to make sense.

My fork's oil (from factory...) was at the top of the righthand arm with the
shock fully compressed - yet
http://www.marzocchi.com/spa/mtb/pro...ito=mtb&Y=2003
says it SB only 5ml and both
http://www.marzocchi.com/spa/mtb/pro...ito=mtb&Y=2004 and
....2005 say 140 ml.

Neither one seems to fit. The shock won't hold 140, even when fully extended.
OTOH, 5 ml is clearly at odds with the 60-80 ml that I found in there...


--
PeteCresswell

RE/
web site's oil level specs don't seem to make sense.

.... so I just emptied the right cylinder, compressed it all the way, and filled
to the bottom of the cap threads.

Left one? Didn't have a clue, since the spring assembly prevents a view of
the oil level...so I just added about 5cc on GPs...
--
PeteCresswell

On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 14:01:48 GMT, (Pete Cresswell) wrote:

RE/
The thing that you should know is that the amount/height of the oil
from the top of the stanchions when the tops caps are off and =

compressed is
important. If you like the way the fork rides now and it isn't =

bottoming
out then just measure the amount of oil you take out and replace it =

with the
same amount.

'Zocchi specifies the oil volume in ml - a Good Thing, I think compare=
d =

to the
vagaries of measuring height as they had me doing on my X-Fly.


You can't go by the ml method for everyone. Depending on the spring rate=
, =

it will change due to the oil displacement.

-- =

Slacker

"(Pete Cresswell)" wrote in message
Only reason I'm changing the oil is that the damping function of the fork
doesn't seem TB working - regardless of adjustment..... gets too
boingy-boingy
on repeated hits - like a car that keeps bouncing when you push down on
the
front and the shocks are shot.
--
PeteCresswell

You need to adjust the rebound to a slower setting.

RE/
You need to adjust the rebound to a slower setting.

It's been all the way to "Slow" with no improvement.

Changing the oil seems to have done the trick - although cranking it all the way
to "Slow" doesn't make the rebound as slow as I'd have expected.

I'll have a better idea of whether it's imporved next time I try negotiating
those four erosion-barrier tree trunks in a row where I almost did a header into
a poisen ivy patch because of the bouncing....-)

The viscosity of the oil that came out was almost like water compared to the 7.5
stuff I replaced it with.
--
PeteCresswell