Crankshaft end tapers.
 

Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently
had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike.
I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter
than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since
then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank
makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort
oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals
fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt
by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of
unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter.

Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I
had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of
pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it
was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have
a different thread there?

Crankshaft end tapers.
 

On Friday, 26 June 2020 11:57:52 UTC-4, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently
had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike.
I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter
than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since
then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank
makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort
oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals
fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt
by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of
unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter.

Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I
had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of
pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it
was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have
a different thread there?

Yes, there can be different tapers on bottom bracket spindles.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

Cheers

Crankshaft end tapers.
 

On Friday, 26 June 2020 12:46:38 UTC-4, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, 26 June 2020 11:57:52 UTC-4, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently
had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike.
I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter
than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since
then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank
makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort
oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals
fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt
by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of
unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter.

Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I
had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of
pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it
was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have
a different thread there?

Yes, there can be different tapers on bottom bracket spindles.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

Cheers

Edit. Add.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html

Crankshaft end tapers.
 

Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, 26 June 2020 12:46:38 UTC-4, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, 26 June 2020 11:57:52 UTC-4, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently
had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike.
I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter
than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since
then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank
makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort
oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals
fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt
by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of
unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter.

Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I
had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of
pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it
was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have
a different thread there?

Yes, there can be different tapers on bottom bracket spindles.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

Cheers

Edit. Add.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html


Hm. I still have the old one, so I suppose I ought to get the
micrometer out and compare them. Assuming I can get the pedal off again
without destroying it :-) Thanks.

Crankshaft end tapers.
 

On 26/06/2020 17:57, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I
recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus'
Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of
smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted
correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken
slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time
with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it
possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the
taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still
almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with
a tapered car balljoint splitter.

Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I
had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of
pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that
it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega
pedals have a different thread there?

Welcome to JIS vs ISO. Chuck in the towel and move to JIS. I fought it
for a few years, I didn't win -(

Crankshaft end tapers.
 

On 6/26/2020 10:57 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper?
I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the
missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm,
I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a
Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH
pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes
an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling
effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that
the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper
correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still
almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant
hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter.

Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off
easily? I had a tool that screwed into the side of the
pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled
out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into.
Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different
thread there?

There are two common sections of the standard crank taper
and they do not fit each other:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/3SPINDLE.JPG

Your Ofmega cranks require the rightmost format. What you
bought is shown center. (also, your original was asymmetric
so now either your chainline is askew or the left crank is
vary far outboard or both)

Your Ofmega crank formerly used the most common extractor,
22x1mm which are cheap and ubiquitous. (the other sizes 23.0
and 23.35mm are obsolete and wouldn't start in your crank
anyway. No one who has those tools would have lent it to
you) Your current format is 'stripped' in that the threads
are missing. Next time seat the tool fully in the crank arm
on clean threads before attempting removal.

Once you acquire the correct spindle, there's no reason not
to install that damaged arm, just note that future removal
may be destructive. If there's a competent shop near you a
TA oversize extractor may be fitted but that may be more
expensive than a replacement arm (many other brands
interchange, Campagnolo, Sugino Mity, SR Royal, original New
Dura Ace #7400, Sugino 75, Miche, Zeus, etc. Not Shimano
current products not Sugino XD not made in china)

People carp and bitch about mouting cranks on dry tapers or
wet but whichever version of heresy you follow, lubricate
your fastener regardless and torque to 35nm.


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Crankshaft end tapers.
 

On Friday, June 26, 2020 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-5, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently
had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike.
I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter
than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since
then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank
makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort
oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals
fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt
by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of
unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter.

Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I
had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of
pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it
was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have
a different thread there?

No comment on your bottom bracket tapers or removing the crank arm from the bottom bracket spindle.

Regarding your questions about pedal threads and removing pedals. A Google search turned up this:

Thread Sizes
Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads. Pedals for one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi. Older French bicycles used a 14 mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare.

On all pedals made in the last 40 years, you use a 15mm wrench on the pedal flats or a 6mm Allen wrench on the Allen hole in the end of the spindle. This is the best pedal removal wrench.

https://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-t...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Crankshaft end tapers.
 

On 26/06/2020 22:10, wrote:
On Friday, June 26, 2020 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-5, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I
recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus'
Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and
of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted
correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken
slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time
with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it
possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the
taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still
almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering
with a tapered car balljoint splitter.

Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily?
I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead
of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread
that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the
Ofmega pedals have a different thread there?

No comment on your bottom bracket tapers or removing the crank arm
from the bottom bracket spindle.

Regarding your questions about pedal threads and removing pedals. A
Google search turned up this:

Thread Sizes Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads. Pedals for
one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi. Older French bicycles used a 14
mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare.

On all pedals made in the last 40 years, you use a 15mm wrench on the
pedal flats or a 6mm Allen wrench on the Allen hole in the end of the
spindle. This is the best pedal removal wrench.

https://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-t...B&gclsrc=aw.ds


I will second that. You can waive that pedal wrench at recalcitrant
pedals and they will **** their axles, unscrew themselves and fall to
the floor in utter terror.

Crankshaft end tapers.
 

On Sat, 27 Jun 2020 09:57:22 +0200, Tosspot
wrote:

On 26/06/2020 22:10, wrote:
On Friday, June 26, 2020 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-5, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I
recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus'
Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and
of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted
correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken
slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time
with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it
possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the
taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still
almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering
with a tapered car balljoint splitter.

Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily?
I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead
of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread
that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the
Ofmega pedals have a different thread there?

No comment on your bottom bracket tapers or removing the crank arm
from the bottom bracket spindle.

Regarding your questions about pedal threads and removing pedals. A
Google search turned up this:

Thread Sizes Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads. Pedals for
one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi. Older French bicycles used a 14
mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare.

On all pedals made in the last 40 years, you use a 15mm wrench on the
pedal flats or a 6mm Allen wrench on the Allen hole in the end of the
spindle. This is the best pedal removal wrench.

https://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-t...B&gclsrc=aw.ds


I will second that. You can waive that pedal wrench at recalcitrant
pedals and they will **** their axles, unscrew themselves and fall to
the floor in utter terror.

And only $30 too.
--
cheers,

John B.

Crankshaft end tapers.
 

wrote:
On Friday, June 26, 2020 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-5, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently
had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike.
I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter
than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since
then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank
makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort
oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals
fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt
by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of
unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter.

Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I
had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of
pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it
was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have
a different thread there?

No comment on your bottom bracket tapers or removing the crank arm from the bottom bracket spindle.

Regarding your questions about pedal threads and removing pedals. A Google search turned up this:


Of course, I meant 'crank arm' all along, but am something of a newbie
when it comes to the correct names for things :-) I haven't had any
problems getting pedals off.

Thread Sizes
Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads. Pedals for one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi. Older French bicycles used a 14 mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare.

On all pedals made in the last 40 years, you use a 15mm wrench on the pedal flats or a 6mm Allen wrench on the Allen hole in the end of the spindle. This is the best pedal removal wrench.

https://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-t...B&gclsrc=aw.ds