Flat repair
 

On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 22:56:16 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 11, 2018 at 1:07:58 AM UTC+2, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 15:36:07 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie
wrote:

On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 12:33:29 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/10/2018 3:09 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
Andy wrote:

:I sanded the tube, applied the patch and clamped it in a vise for an hour.

Did you let the glue dry? the hexane (or whatever they use these
days) is just a solvent. the active part of the glue is the rubber
and vulcanizing activator. then put the
patch on, and press firm (the edge of a patch kit box works great.).
Then put the tube to use.

Here's my method:

First, I seldom patch a tube at the side of the road. Instead I just
change tubes, using the spare tube I always have with the bike. I do
check carefully by feel and visually to be sure the glass, wire or
whatever is not still sticking into the tire. Oh, and I make sure the
punctured tube is tossed sloppily into my handlebar bag so I don't
forget to deal with it at home.

At home, I inflate the tube and find the leak, making sure there isn't
more than one. I mark its position X with chalk.

I clamp a thick dowel (3/4" diameter or so) so it's protruding from my
bench vise. This is my work surface. I lay the X directly on top.

I take my sanding block (used for wood work) and sand the area to be
patched. It's way easier than fiddling with the tiny sandpaper in a
patch kit, and the dowel work surface makes it easy to sand well.

I apply the patch glue, spreading it thin, then wait maybe five minutes
for it to dry.

I peel the backing foil off the patch and carefully stick it in place.

Then I take another dowel, hold it right angles to the one in the vise,
and roll it over the patch to apply pressure, starting in the patch's
center and working toward the outside. It's like rolling cookie dough -
although I've never rolled cookie dough. This makes it easy to apply
quite a bit of force on a small area (the contact point between two
perpendicular cylinders) and I think helps make the bond very strong.

Then I make sure all the air is out of the tube so it's completely flat.
I fold it up, put a rubber band around it and put it back in my bike bag.

For me, the main thing is it's a lot easier to do this in my basement
where I have all the tools immediately ready. And the dowel in the vise
really is a much easier work surface than a flat surface.

Here's my technique -- carry a couple of spares and have boat loads of patched and new tubes at home. Get numerous flats and accumulate a pile of un-repaired tubes. Then, (1) select proper beer; go to man cave and (2) select proper DVD and or BluRay movie, (3) start patching. I use a Sharpie to mark, and I just lay the tube flat and sand. You can apply glue to two or three at a time, depending on chair-back hanging space. Number one dries as you're spreading glue on three, etc. Apply patches like you say, but I just put the tube back on flat surface (I use a plastic cutting board) and press down with plastic tire iron. You could use your finger nail. When the pile is done, I pump them all up and let them sit overnight. There are always two or three that go flat because of super small holes, and then I get out the bucket of water and do those, and then I roll them all up like you say.

Sanding is the important part, IMO. Some tube brands have really nasty mold release or some other finish that you have to get through for a good bond.

I have a patch limit where I just throw the tube away. Nothing set. If I say, "man there are a lot of patches on that tube," then I just throw it away. I've gotten my money out of it. I'll keep patching if it has sentimental value or its some weird size that I need.

-- Jay Beattie.


A while ago I believe that we discussed patching tubes in detail. At
the time I think I remember someone writing that they simply wiped the
tube off with some chemical and slapped on the patch. No sanding.

I remember thinking that I should "get some of that stuff" but like
many plans it came a crupper and I even forgot the incident until this
thread started.

Anyone remember the details and did the scheme actually work. I hate
sanding tubes and would gladly go to some lengths to avoid it.

It was me. I never sand unless I need to patch a flat along the road which is almost never. I use what we call in the Netherlands 'wasbenzine'. Removes the mould release nicely and you get a nice dull black spot. It takes just seconds and I get 100% succes rate.

Lou

Thanks for that.... now to try and figure out what "wasbenzine" is :-)
Given that "benzene" means many different in different places that may
be a problem :-)

Flat repair
 

On Saturday, August 11, 2018 at 1:18:40 PM UTC+2, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 22:56:16 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 11, 2018 at 1:07:58 AM UTC+2, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 15:36:07 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie
wrote:

On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 12:33:29 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/10/2018 3:09 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
Andy wrote:

:I sanded the tube, applied the patch and clamped it in a vise for an hour.

Did you let the glue dry? the hexane (or whatever they use these
days) is just a solvent. the active part of the glue is the rubber
and vulcanizing activator. then put the
patch on, and press firm (the edge of a patch kit box works great..).
Then put the tube to use.

Here's my method:

First, I seldom patch a tube at the side of the road. Instead I just
change tubes, using the spare tube I always have with the bike. I do
check carefully by feel and visually to be sure the glass, wire or
whatever is not still sticking into the tire. Oh, and I make sure the
punctured tube is tossed sloppily into my handlebar bag so I don't
forget to deal with it at home.

At home, I inflate the tube and find the leak, making sure there isn't
more than one. I mark its position X with chalk.

I clamp a thick dowel (3/4" diameter or so) so it's protruding from my
bench vise. This is my work surface. I lay the X directly on top.

I take my sanding block (used for wood work) and sand the area to be
patched. It's way easier than fiddling with the tiny sandpaper in a
patch kit, and the dowel work surface makes it easy to sand well.

I apply the patch glue, spreading it thin, then wait maybe five minutes
for it to dry.

I peel the backing foil off the patch and carefully stick it in place.

Then I take another dowel, hold it right angles to the one in the vise,
and roll it over the patch to apply pressure, starting in the patch's
center and working toward the outside. It's like rolling cookie dough -
although I've never rolled cookie dough. This makes it easy to apply
quite a bit of force on a small area (the contact point between two
perpendicular cylinders) and I think helps make the bond very strong.

Then I make sure all the air is out of the tube so it's completely flat.
I fold it up, put a rubber band around it and put it back in my bike bag.

For me, the main thing is it's a lot easier to do this in my basement
where I have all the tools immediately ready. And the dowel in the vise
really is a much easier work surface than a flat surface.

Here's my technique -- carry a couple of spares and have boat loads of patched and new tubes at home. Get numerous flats and accumulate a pile of un-repaired tubes. Then, (1) select proper beer; go to man cave and (2) select proper DVD and or BluRay movie, (3) start patching. I use a Sharpie to mark, and I just lay the tube flat and sand. You can apply glue to two or three at a time, depending on chair-back hanging space. Number one dries as you're spreading glue on three, etc. Apply patches like you say, but I just put the tube back on flat surface (I use a plastic cutting board) and press down with plastic tire iron. You could use your finger nail. When the pile is done, I pump them all up and let them sit overnight. There are always two or three that go flat because of super small holes, and then I get out the bucket of water and do those, and then I roll them all up like you say.

Sanding is the important part, IMO. Some tube brands have really nasty mold release or some other finish that you have to get through for a good bond.

I have a patch limit where I just throw the tube away. Nothing set. If I say, "man there are a lot of patches on that tube," then I just throw it away. I've gotten my money out of it. I'll keep patching if it has sentimental value or its some weird size that I need.

-- Jay Beattie.


A while ago I believe that we discussed patching tubes in detail. At
the time I think I remember someone writing that they simply wiped the
tube off with some chemical and slapped on the patch. No sanding.

I remember thinking that I should "get some of that stuff" but like
many plans it came a crupper and I even forgot the incident until this
thread started.

Anyone remember the details and did the scheme actually work. I hate
sanding tubes and would gladly go to some lengths to avoid it.

It was me. I never sand unless I need to patch a flat along the road which is almost never. I use what we call in the Netherlands 'wasbenzine'. Removes the mould release nicely and you get a nice dull black spot. It takes just seconds and I get 100% succes rate.

Lou

Thanks for that.... now to try and figure out what "wasbenzine" is :-)
Given that "benzene" means many different in different places that may
be a problem :-)

Form Wikipedia:
https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wasbenzine

In Dutch for applications (toepassingen):

Schoonmaken van binnenband (bijvoorbeeld fiets) alvorens solutie (lijm) aan te brengen; dit werkt beter dan schuren omdat eventueel vuil wordt opgelost en afgevoerd en niet wordt uitgesmeerd

translation; for cleaning inner tube (ie bicycle) before applying the cement (glue); this works better than sanding because dirt is disolved and removed instead of smeared out.

I agree with that.

Lou

Flat repair
 

On 8/11/2018 12:52 AM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 20:13:06 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 8/10/2018 6:07 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 15:36:07 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie
wrote:

On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 12:33:29 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/10/2018 3:09 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
Andy wrote:

:I sanded the tube, applied the patch and clamped it in a vise for an hour.

Did you let the glue dry? the hexane (or whatever they use these
days) is just a solvent. the active part of the glue is the rubber
and vulcanizing activator. then put the
patch on, and press firm (the edge of a patch kit box works great.).
Then put the tube to use.

Here's my method:

First, I seldom patch a tube at the side of the road. Instead I just
change tubes, using the spare tube I always have with the bike. I do
check carefully by feel and visually to be sure the glass, wire or
whatever is not still sticking into the tire. Oh, and I make sure the
punctured tube is tossed sloppily into my handlebar bag so I don't
forget to deal with it at home.

At home, I inflate the tube and find the leak, making sure there isn't
more than one. I mark its position X with chalk.

I clamp a thick dowel (3/4" diameter or so) so it's protruding from my
bench vise. This is my work surface. I lay the X directly on top.

I take my sanding block (used for wood work) and sand the area to be
patched. It's way easier than fiddling with the tiny sandpaper in a
patch kit, and the dowel work surface makes it easy to sand well.

I apply the patch glue, spreading it thin, then wait maybe five minutes
for it to dry.

I peel the backing foil off the patch and carefully stick it in place.

Then I take another dowel, hold it right angles to the one in the vise,
and roll it over the patch to apply pressure, starting in the patch's
center and working toward the outside. It's like rolling cookie dough -
although I've never rolled cookie dough. This makes it easy to apply
quite a bit of force on a small area (the contact point between two
perpendicular cylinders) and I think helps make the bond very strong.

Then I make sure all the air is out of the tube so it's completely flat.
I fold it up, put a rubber band around it and put it back in my bike bag.

For me, the main thing is it's a lot easier to do this in my basement
where I have all the tools immediately ready. And the dowel in the vise
really is a much easier work surface than a flat surface.

Here's my technique -- carry a couple of spares and have boat loads of patched and new tubes at home. Get numerous flats and accumulate a pile of un-repaired tubes. Then, (1) select proper beer; go to man cave and (2) select proper DVD and or BluRay movie, (3) start patching. I use a Sharpie to mark, and I just lay the tube flat and sand. You can apply glue to two or three at a time, depending on chair-back hanging space. Number one dries as you're spreading glue on three, etc. Apply patches like you say, but I just put the tube back on flat surface (I use a plastic cutting board) and press down with plastic tire iron. You could use your finger nail. When the pile is done, I pump them all up and let them sit overnight. There are always two or three that go flat because of super small holes, and then I get out the bucket of water and do those, and then I roll them all up like you say.

Sanding is the important part, IMO. Some tube brands have really nasty mold release or some other finish that you have to get through for a good bond.

I have a patch limit where I just throw the tube away. Nothing set. If I say, "man there are a lot of patches on that tube," then I just throw it away. I've gotten my money out of it. I'll keep patching if it has sentimental value or its some weird size that I need.

-- Jay Beattie.


A while ago I believe that we discussed patching tubes in detail. At
the time I think I remember someone writing that they simply wiped the
tube off with some chemical and slapped on the patch. No sanding.

I remember thinking that I should "get some of that stuff" but like
many plans it came a crupper and I even forgot the incident until this
thread started.

Anyone remember the details and did the scheme actually work. I hate
sanding tubes and would gladly go to some lengths to avoid it.


Tech Products, a standard supplier to the auto/motorcycle
tire sold 'Tech Patch Buffer' solution which was
trichlorethane? trichlorethylene? I can't recall. Worked
well to clean and prep a patchable surface. Since we have
auto brake wash (mostly acetone and alcohol) I use that now.

I assume that "auto brake wash" is a different product then "brake
cleaner" which, here, is a pretty aggressive cleaning liquid.

I've got a large spray can of brake cleaner, and another of carburetor
cleaner. Since I'll never use them up working on the car, I'd be willing
to try them.

- Frank Krygowski

Flat repair
 

wrote:
On Saturday, August 11, 2018 at 1:18:40 PM UTC+2, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 22:56:16 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, August 11, 2018 at 1:07:58 AM UTC+2, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 15:36:07 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie
wrote:

On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 12:33:29 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/10/2018 3:09 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
Andy wrote:

:I sanded the tube, applied the patch and clamped it in a vise for an hour.

Did you let the glue dry? the hexane (or whatever they use these
days) is just a solvent. the active part of the glue is the rubber
and vulcanizing activator. then put the
patch on, and press firm (the edge of a patch kit box works great.).
Then put the tube to use.

Here's my method:

First, I seldom patch a tube at the side of the road. Instead I just
change tubes, using the spare tube I always have with the bike. I do
check carefully by feel and visually to be sure the glass, wire or
whatever is not still sticking into the tire. Oh, and I make sure the
punctured tube is tossed sloppily into my handlebar bag so I don't
forget to deal with it at home.

At home, I inflate the tube and find the leak, making sure there isn't
more than one. I mark its position X with chalk.

I clamp a thick dowel (3/4" diameter or so) so it's protruding from my
bench vise. This is my work surface. I lay the X directly on top.

I take my sanding block (used for wood work) and sand the area to be
patched. It's way easier than fiddling with the tiny sandpaper in a
patch kit, and the dowel work surface makes it easy to sand well.

I apply the patch glue, spreading it thin, then wait maybe five minutes
for it to dry.

I peel the backing foil off the patch and carefully stick it in place.

Then I take another dowel, hold it right angles to the one in the vise,
and roll it over the patch to apply pressure, starting in the patch's
center and working toward the outside. It's like rolling cookie dough -
although I've never rolled cookie dough. This makes it easy to apply
quite a bit of force on a small area (the contact point between two
perpendicular cylinders) and I think helps make the bond very strong.

Then I make sure all the air is out of the tube so it's completely flat.
I fold it up, put a rubber band around it and put it back in my bike bag.

For me, the main thing is it's a lot easier to do this in my basement
where I have all the tools immediately ready. And the dowel in the vise
really is a much easier work surface than a flat surface.

Here's my technique -- carry a couple of spares and have boat loads
of patched and new tubes at home. Get numerous flats and accumulate
a pile of un-repaired tubes. Then, (1) select proper beer; go to
man cave and (2) select proper DVD and or BluRay movie, (3) start
patching. I use a Sharpie to mark, and I just lay the tube flat and
sand. You can apply glue to two or three at a time, depending on
chair-back hanging space. Number one dries as you're spreading glue
on three, etc. Apply patches like you say, but I just put the tube
back on flat surface (I use a plastic cutting board) and press down
with plastic tire iron. You could use your finger nail. When the
pile is done, I pump them all up and let them sit overnight. There
are always two or three that go flat because of super small holes,
and then I get out the bucket of water and do those, and then I roll
them all up like you say.

Sanding is the important part, IMO. Some tube brands have really
nasty mold release or some other finish that you have to get through for a good bond.

I have a patch limit where I just throw the tube away. Nothing set.
If I say, "man there are a lot of patches on that tube," then I just
throw it away. I've gotten my money out of it. I'll keep patching if
it has sentimental value or its some weird size that I need.

-- Jay Beattie.


A while ago I believe that we discussed patching tubes in detail. At
the time I think I remember someone writing that they simply wiped the
tube off with some chemical and slapped on the patch. No sanding.

I remember thinking that I should "get some of that stuff" but like
many plans it came a crupper and I even forgot the incident until this
thread started.

Anyone remember the details and did the scheme actually work. I hate
sanding tubes and would gladly go to some lengths to avoid it.

It was me. I never sand unless I need to patch a flat along the road
which is almost never. I use what we call in the Netherlands
'wasbenzine'. Removes the mould release nicely and you get a nice dull
black spot. It takes just seconds and I get 100% succes rate.

Lou

Thanks for that.... now to try and figure out what "wasbenzine" is :-)
Given that "benzene" means many different in different places that may
be a problem :-)

Form Wikipedia:
https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wasbenzine

In Dutch for applications (toepassingen):

Schoonmaken van binnenband (bijvoorbeeld fiets) alvorens solutie (lijm)
aan te brengen; dit werkt beter dan schuren omdat eventueel vuil wordt
opgelost en afgevoerd en niet wordt uitgesmeerd

translation; for cleaning inner tube (ie bicycle) before applying the
cement (glue); this works better than sanding because dirt is disolved
and removed instead of smeared out.

I agree with that.

Lou



From the same Wikipedia article, "met 5 tot 15 koolstofatomen volgens de
formule CnH2n+2, bijvoorbeeld C7H16". So it sounds like n-heptane would be
the English equivalent.

Flat repair
 

On Sat, 11 Aug 2018 12:06:23 +0700, John B. Slocomb
wrote:

On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 21:36:20 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 20:13:06 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

This seems to be the new version in our bleak no-CFC world:
https://techtirerepairs.com/rubber-cleaners/

http://apps.globalmsdslibrary.com/admin/pdf_service.php?target=https%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws. com%2Fcompliance-plus-production-documents%2Fproduction%2Fmsds_scans_s53%2F179375_4 577c3a68954e30a4dd1dfe0f736b696.pdf
Light Aliphatic Naphtha 59.5 - 72%
N-Heptane 17 - 27%
Propane 7 - 10%
Isobutane 3 - 5%

I assume that the Propane and Isobutane are "propellants" as they both
are in their gaseous form at normal temperatures. Propane @ -42C and
Isobutane at -11.7C.

I don't know what the combination of those gases are called. They're
a common propellant used in spray cans and possibly a waste gas
produced by petroleum distillation or cracking to produce naphtha. I
could look it up, but not now.

The active ingredient is the naphtha, which is one of the few organic
solvents that are not currently banned. There are many forms, one of
which is common Coleman camp fuel or "white-gas". As long as the
solvent doesn't leave any oil residue behind, it can be used to clean
rubber. What naphtha will not clean is dirt, which methinks is best
removed first with water.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Flat repair
 

On Sat, 11 Aug 2018 05:03:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


Form Wikipedia:
https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wasbenzine

In Dutch for applications (toepassingen):

Schoonmaken van binnenband (bijvoorbeeld fiets) alvorens solutie (lijm) aan te brengen; dit werkt beter dan schuren omdat eventueel vuil wordt opgelost en afgevoerd en niet wordt uitgesmeerd

translation; for cleaning inner tube (ie bicycle) before applying the
cement (glue); this works better than sanding because dirt is disolved
and removed instead of smeared out.
I agree with that.
Lou

Dirt is mostly minerals and does not dissolve. Put some dirt in a
beaker of water, shake well, let settle and see what's left. It's
probably the same dirt you put into the beaker.

My guess(tm) is that Wasbenzine is just water and an organic solvent
mix. The water breaks loose the dirt, while the solvent removes any
oils and mold release. The mold release used with rubber is probably
silicone based, which according to Wikipedia, might be water soluble:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Release_agent#Rubber

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Flat repair
 

On Saturday, August 11, 2018 at 6:37:57 PM UTC+2, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 11 Aug 2018 05:03:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


Form Wikipedia:
https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wasbenzine

In Dutch for applications (toepassingen):

Schoonmaken van binnenband (bijvoorbeeld fiets) alvorens solutie (lijm) aan te brengen; dit werkt beter dan schuren omdat eventueel vuil wordt opgelost en afgevoerd en niet wordt uitgesmeerd

translation; for cleaning inner tube (ie bicycle) before applying the
cement (glue); this works better than sanding because dirt is disolved
and removed instead of smeared out.
I agree with that.
Lou

Dirt is mostly minerals and does not dissolve. Put some dirt in a
beaker of water, shake well, let settle and see what's left. It's
probably the same dirt you put into the beaker.

My guess(tm) is that Wasbenzine is just water and an organic solvent
mix. The water breaks loose the dirt, while the solvent removes any
oils and mold release. The mold release used with rubber is probably
silicone based, which according to Wikipedia, might be water soluble:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Release_agent#Rubber

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

I doubt there is water in 'wasbenzine'. It is a degreaser and very volatile. I patched a pinch flat from last Sunday and took some pictures:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KgRuRugg547GBJMn9

It took about 10 minutes total. While waiting I took the laundry out OF the dryer ;-)

Lou

Flat repair
 

On Sat, 11 Aug 2018 09:29:26 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Sat, 11 Aug 2018 12:06:23 +0700, John B. Slocomb
wrote:

On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 21:36:20 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 20:13:06 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

This seems to be the new version in our bleak no-CFC world:
https://techtirerepairs.com/rubber-cleaners/

http://apps.globalmsdslibrary.com/admin/pdf_service.php?target=https%3A%2F%2Fs3.amazonaws. com%2Fcompliance-plus-production-documents%2Fproduction%2Fmsds_scans_s53%2F179375_4 577c3a68954e30a4dd1dfe0f736b696.pdf
Light Aliphatic Naphtha 59.5 - 72%
N-Heptane 17 - 27%
Propane 7 - 10%
Isobutane 3 - 5%

I assume that the Propane and Isobutane are "propellants" as they both
are in their gaseous form at normal temperatures. Propane @ -42C and
Isobutane at -11.7C.

I don't know what the combination of those gases are called. They're
a common propellant used in spray cans and possibly a waste gas
produced by petroleum distillation or cracking to produce naphtha. I
could look it up, but not now.


A company we worked with was in the "gas processing" business and had
mentioned that they were building a "propellant gas" plant in Alabama,
or some such place. When I questioned them about it it seemed that
there is a huge demand for "propellant" and they were processing gas
from conventional "gas wells".




The active ingredient is the naphtha, which is one of the few organic
solvents that are not currently banned. There are many forms, one of
which is common Coleman camp fuel or "white-gas". As long as the
solvent doesn't leave any oil residue behind, it can be used to clean
rubber. What naphtha will not clean is dirt, which methinks is best
removed first with water.

Flat repair
 

On Sat, 11 Aug 2018 10:23:34 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I doubt there is water in 'wasbenzine'. It is a degreaser
and very volatile. I patched a pinch flat from last Sunday
and took some pictures:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KgRuRugg547GBJMn9
It took about 10 minutes total. While waiting I took the
laundry out OF the dryer ;-)
Lou

Ok, I'm wrong. No water, which is odd because most of the articles I
found on removing silicone mold release specified either hot water or
isopropyl alcohol.

Incidentally, benzene is a component of coal tar naphtha:
https://iaspub.epa.gov/tdb/pages/contaminant/contaminantOverview.do?contaminantId=10140
"Benzene’s trade names and synonyms are Polystream, benzol,
pyrobenzol, coal naphtha, and phene."

http://www.etc-cte.ec.gc.ca/databases/Oilproperties/pdf/WEB_Naphtha_(Coal_Tar).pdf

So, Andrew's magic "rubber cleaner" might be the same composition as
your magic "wasbenzine".


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Flat repair
 

On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 2:20:57 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/10/2018 9:02 AM, Andy wrote:
On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 7:47:58 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/10/2018 1:14 AM, Andy wrote:
I had to repair a flat. Have some questions.

Is it best to apply patch to a completly flat tube?

I found a small copper wire in tire.

Is there something to minimize what can puncture tire?

Thanks


Pathing covered in images 4 through 8 he
http://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html

If you find a way to escape flat tires do write back.

One way is to not ride. :-)

One thing that helps is to ride away from the gutter. If you ride on the
section of road that's routinely contacted by car tires, you'll find
it's swept clean of most debris.

Lots of glass shards, wire bits etc. get tossed out of that area toward
the far right, where most cyclists like to ride.

--
- Frank Krygowski

Interesting.

We have frequent street sweepers, so the bike lane is usually pretty clean.

Andy