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Stronger rubber cement?
On 2017-01-04 10:28, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 12:29:31 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 1/3/2017 11:23 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Contact cement. It's a neoprene rubber based goo that remains fairly flexible if applied in a very thin layer. Smear some on both the tire and the patch, let air dry for at least 10 minutes (longer is better), and stick together with a little compression pressure. I've used a roller, two blocks of wood and a C-clamp, and beating on the sandwich with a hammer. They all work. I generally change tubes on the road, then patch the leaking tube at home. Same here. However, I don't ride enough to get very many flats. The bane of my life are leaking tubes. Even brand new tubes (Nashbar's cheapest) tend to leak. I've done a bubble test and usually find pin holes at random location. It's not worth the effort doing the full patch job for a pin hole, so I just stretch the tube so I can see the hole, fill it with rubber cement, wipe off the excess, and let it dry. That works, until a new pinhole appears. Then, there are the leaky tire valves, usually because I've lost the caps and the valve is full of dirt. Sigh. Try these: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Thorn.../dp/B000BMT2TM I never looked back. Reviews are mixed and sometimes they do have poor valve attachment. Also, some are thick only towards the running surface and that is less protecting than thick all around. So ask before buying in order to be able to return if not as promised. As Forest Gump said, "Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you gonna get". The thicker a tube the better it usually is. [...] -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
Stronger rubber cement?
On 2017-01-04 11:52, David Scheidt wrote:
Joerg wrote: : :them my result were less stellar than in Europe with the classic kits. : :Those contain much thicker patches that looked like round chunks of : :tube, sometimes slightly beveled. Can't find those here in the US. : : Rema patches in action: : https://scontent.ford4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bb&oe=58E69CCC : : https://scontent.ford4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9c&oe=58E45D94 : : That tube is still in service, two years later. : :Impressive. I wouldn't even have tried to repair that one. :One significant difference is that my tubes are much thicker in their :walls. 3mm on the road bike and 4mm on the MTB. So the tube material is :many times thicker than REMA patches. : : :The question is why would be the good ones to buy? : : I use rema f1, which are round and 25 mm in diameter. Box of 100 : costs ~20 bucks. A half pint bottle of vulcanizing flouid, which will : do hundreds of patches, and last for years (mine has been in my dsk : for five years) costs ~$10 at an auto parts store (very expensive to : ship, buy local.). : :The "Slime" brand is cheaper. Do you think the one below works as well? :I was not impressed with their self-healing tubes but this seems to be :other stuff. :https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1050-Ru.../dp/B003V9UU66 That's what's in my desk at work. Works fine. Thanks. I shall order that along with our next Amazon shipment. :Also, I'd like to cement on real (thicker) tube material instead of REMA :patches. Don't see a reason why this shouldn't be possible. There's a really good one: The working surface of a patch is made of unvulcanized rubber. A tube is vulcanized. With vulcanized rubber on both sides, there will only be weak cross-linking, and it won't be good bond. Go ahead and try it, but expect failure. Repair units exist for a reason. Ok, then I'll have to order patches as well. I wonder what they were selling in Europe. It was black, much thicker than REMA and looked like tube rubber. But had a peel-off surface in back. We'll have German guests in October, maybe I can have some shipped to their house. Do REMA patches have an expiration date? -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
Stronger rubber cement?
On 2017-01-03 17:04, Joerg wrote:
Gentlemen, Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple cheap small tubes are available. The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long. The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well. Thanks to all responders (also Barry and Doug). I'll order Slime Rubber Cement with my next Amazon shipment because that's what David uses, he says it works well and it isn't expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1050-Ru.../dp/B003V9UU66 -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
Stronger rubber cement?
Per Joerg:
I always carry a spare tube. So far only used for other riders. I started carrying at least on extra after getting a flat in mud in the middle of a field during heavy rain. Rain can be a real deal-breaker when it comes time to patching a flat. -- Pete Cresswell |
Stronger rubber cement?
On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 7:04:38 PM UTC-6, Joerg wrote:
Gentlemen, Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple cheap small tubes are available. The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long. The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ Larger patches available in Farm supply stores. Here is an online store for glue and large patches. http://www.patchrubber.com/tire_repair/14201.html |
Stronger rubber cement?
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 08:59:30 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote: Per John B.: when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is not quite so much of a catastrophe at home Ever since I opened a virgin, unopened tube (at home, thankfully) and found it had dried up, I write the purchase date on each tube and carry at least two unopened tubes in my patch kit. Probably wretched excess, since I always carry at least one spare inner tube - and sometimes two... I carry one spare tube for local rides and two if I'm going further AND a tire patching kit :-) This "logic" originated with a ride where I flatted twice in a 1 Km. distance. -- cheers, John B. |
Stronger rubber cement?
On Wednesday, January 4, 2017 at 10:00:50 AM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 04 Jan 2017 07:27:48 -0800, Joerg wrote: I'll look into contact cement. Gene also suggested that. Cost is not so much an issue but shelf life after opening is. The usual rubber cement is toast only a few months after opening. I've had the same experience. The problem with the leaking bottles and tubes seems to be related to heat. My squeeze tube of contact cement doesn't last very long after it's used once, so I'm not sure that looking for a better glue is the right answer. A better way to prevent outgassing seems to be a better approach. As David Scheidt suggests, buying the rubber cement or whatever in a can lasts much longer. I keep my can inside a plastic Ziploc bag, which seems to help. I've considered putting it inside a glass jar, and pressurizing the jar to above the vapor pressure of the solvent to limit loss by evaporation. I've done this with some chemicals and drugs, but never tried it with glue. Also, be sure to test the strength of your contact cement joint. There's nothing stronger than a vulcanized bond, so I'm fairly sure that contact cement will not be as strong as a proper vulcanizing patch. Whether it's strong enough is the question. It also has to become a pliable connection because those cuts are on the side walls. Ever since moving to tire liners plus thich tubes plus thick tire surfaces I don't get "regular" flats via running surface punctures anymore. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 The Rema cement is empty after you crack the top and then don't use it for a couple of months. |
Stronger rubber cement?
contact cement can renew with acetone or MEK.
again, the can/tube closure is done thus tube.....squeeze air ot rollup bottom squarely until bottom tube foldind dams against the remaining interior substance....that is oozing out the nozzle for the oozing you have prepared a patch of grocery bar plastic, cleaned threads of nozzle and cap plus examening cap for washers, rings of dry substance... squeeze oze of substance from nozzle by pushing on the bottom roll fold...you have a fold of rolled up bottom held against the substance bulge ...and COVER THE OOZE WITH PATCH THEN SCREW THE CAP ON TIGHT BUT DOAHN SPLIT THE CAP. always keep caps in a cap bin. when the locktite cap blows away there's another in the bin. |||||||||||| for the can clean threads, size patch n if necessary cut a small X in the middle for the cap brush n stalk. test cap n threads find the pipe wrench/channel locks https://www.google.com/search?site=i...&q=channelocks or large vise grips cover opening with patch, or insert brush thru partch hole ....cover hole trying for a unfolded cover of threads from the patch ... screw cap on ...and tighten slightly with the pliers. remove cap ? with the pliers IHS |
Stronger rubber cement?
On Wednesday, January 4, 2017 at 12:05:54 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-01-03 17:04, Joerg wrote: Gentlemen, Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple cheap small tubes are available. The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long. The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well. Thanks to all responders (also Barry and Doug). I'll order Slime Rubber Cement with my next Amazon shipment because that's what David uses, he says it works well and it isn't expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1050-Ru.../dp/B003V9UU66 -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ That "rubber cement" isn't for gluing rubber. It's an elastic finish if memory serves. |
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