Chain waxing + graphite question
 

I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been
quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool
"cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of
sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake.

I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax
to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to
the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm
done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I
scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite?

Harry

Chain waxing + graphite question
 

On Tue, 07 Feb 2006 07:08:22 -0600, HarryB wrote:

I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax
to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to
the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm
done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I
scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite?

I don't add graphite and don't see what is would do. I do add maybe
5% motor oil to the wax. Parrafin wax is a bad lubricant. When a
part gets scratched, the wax doesn't flow into the sratch. Maybe the
small amount of oil in the wax will do that. I've had great luck in
waxing chains in SoCal, where it is dry. I usually rewax when the
chain squeeks. Getting caught in the rain will ruin a wax job almost
instantly. I rode a waxed tandem chain in the rain one day. Next
morning the dried chain already had rust spots.

You can put a layer of screen on the bottom of your wax pot and avoid
having to scrape the black layer off.

Chain waxing + graphite question
 

"HarryB" wrote in message
...
I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been
quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool
"cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of
sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake.

I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax
to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to
the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm
done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I
scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite?

Harry

I've used this product in the past. Seems to work great. And now with a
new distributor, should be available.

www.chainbutter.com

Chain waxing + graphite question
 

On Tue, 7 Feb 2006 17:15:51 -0600, "Mike"
wrote:



"HarryB" wrote in message
.. .
I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been
quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool
"cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of
sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake.

I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax
to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to
the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm
done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I
scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite?

Harry

I've used this product in the past. Seems to work great. And now with a
new distributor, should be available.

www.chainbutter.com

I don't see where ChainButter is better than the hot wax method I
presently use. They recommend basically the same procedure for
ChainButter that I use for hot waxing my chains. However, I use a
FryDaddy deep fryer to heat the wax, so there is little danger of
fire. I don't keep accurate notes, but am quite sure I get much better
mileage between waxings than the 300 - 500 miles they claim for
ChainButter. [1] The hot wax cost me only pennys and I expect to use
the same wax for a long time. The ChainButter costs $19.95 + shipping.

[1] I recently replaced the drive chain on our tandem (it broke) which
had just over 2,000 miles on it. I had waxed it either two or three
times and it had only stretched 25% according to my Park Tools Chain
Checker.

Harry

Chain waxing + graphite question
 

In article ,
HarryB wrote:

I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been
quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool
"cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of
sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake.

I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax
to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to
the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm
done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I
scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite?

Harry

Don't use graphite- it's messy and corrosive if the chain gets wet.
Teflon is a better additive. In fact, lose the wax and use pure Teflon
lubricant from Dupont.

--
Mike DeMicco

Chain waxing + graphite question
 

On Tue, 7 Feb 2006 17:15:51 -0600, "Mike"
wrote:



"HarryB" wrote in message
.. .
....
I've used this product in the past. Seems to work great. And now with a
new distributor, should be available.

www.chainbutter.com

How about hydrogenated palm oil or some other processed vegetable oil
that's close to solid at room temperature? It would be a lot cheaper.

Something like Crisco, but a little more solid. Cocoa butter? It
would smell nice.

Chain waxing + graphite question
 

On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 09:45:22 -0800, Mike DeMicco
wrote:

In article ,
HarryB wrote:

I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been
quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool
"cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of
sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake.

I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax
to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to
the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm
done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I
scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite?

Harry

Don't use graphite- it's messy and corrosive if the chain gets wet.
Teflon is a better additive. In fact, lose the wax and use pure Teflon
lubricant from Dupont.

What is the exact name of this product, and why is it better than the
hot wax method that I'm now using? My priorities are as follows
(highest priority first):
1) Clean chain
2) Reduced chain wear
3) Low cost
4) Ease of relubing

Harry

Chain waxing + graphite question
 

On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 09:45:22 -0800, Mike DeMicco
wrote:
Don't use graphite- it's messy and corrosive if the chain gets wet.
Teflon is a better additive. In fact, lose the wax and use pure Teflon
lubricant from Dupont.

I assume this "pure Teflon lubricant" is some sort of marketing
nonsense. Pure Teflon is solid. I suspect SB's Real Man Saddles
would work better than Dupont's Real Man Teflon Lube...

Pat

Email address works as is.

Chain waxing + graphite question
 

HarryB wrote:
On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 09:45:22 -0800, Mike DeMicco
wrote:

In article ,
HarryB wrote:

I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been
quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool
"cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of
sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake.

I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax
to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to
the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm
done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I
scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite?

Harry

Don't use graphite- it's messy and corrosive if the chain gets wet.
Teflon is a better additive. In fact, lose the wax and use pure Teflon
lubricant from Dupont.

What is the exact name of this product,

It *might* be "DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant", a liquid with teflon
solids which sets up dry. On the back, it says Mfg. & Dist. By Finish
Line, Inc. I've used it on a number of things (pivots, etc.) with good
results, but never on a chain (I have my own "chain ritual"). The good
news is that a 4oz bottle is ~$3.39 at a big box home improvement
center, so it's much cheaper than stuff with the official Finish Line
label.

and why is it better than the
hot wax method that I'm now using? My priorities are as follows
(highest priority first):
1) Clean chain
2) Reduced chain wear
3) Low cost
4) Ease of relubing

Harry

Chain waxing + graphite question
 

Mike DeMicco wrote:

Don't use graphite- it's messy and corrosive if the chain gets wet.


Corrosive? How?

E.P.