Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop bar levers nowfeel spongy
 

Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine. Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop bar leversnow feel spongy
 

On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine. Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

Hmm. I've got interrupters on two different drop bar bikes, and on
each bike all four levers feel solid.

Instead of pulling on the inner wire, the interrupters push on the
housing downstream - that is, the portion toward the caliper. They
don't move or change anything upstream to the original lever. So I
think the problem must have something to do with the installation
upstream, between the interrupters and the original levers. I'd look
for some sort of looseness or lost motion there.

Is the upstream cable housing and inner cable running as straight
as possible and pointed directly at the interrupters? Are the brake
cables "aero" (i.e. under the tape, like mine) or do they arc through
open air between the original levers and the interrupters? Seems to
me like crookedness or looseness in that cable run could be a suspect.

As an aside with a possible parallel: I firmed up the action of my
cantilevers considerably by pre-setting the bend in the straddle
cable of the brakes. My old-style straddle cables actually look
straight, like the one in Sheldon's copyright 1992 sketch at
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
whereas lots of them have a bit of bend when the brakes are released.
That means lever travel first has to straighten the bend. (This isn't
as much an issue with more modern button-style straddle cables.)

Anyway, I wonder if you have some place where your original levers
are having to straighten out the cable. Obviously, it's hard to
diagnose this stuff remotely.

- Frank Krygowski

Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop bar leversnow feel spongy
 

On 12/11/2018 4:54 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine. Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.


Assuming the main levers are not bent/damaged/corroded, you
have a cable (wire or casing or ferrule) problem between the
main lever and your add-in lever.

One common problem is a too-short casing which seems sorta
OK until the handlebar tape is wrapped.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop bar levers now feel spongy
 

On Tue, 11 Dec 2018 14:54:43 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine. Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

Possibly the cable housing. If I remember correctly the main brake
levers pull the cable while the interrupter levers push against the
cable housing (for want of a better name).

cheers,

John B.

Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop bar leversnow feel spongy
 

On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine. Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine. The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is easier to set up for optimum braking power.

Cheers

Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop bar leversnow feel spongy
 

On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine. Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine. The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.

--
- Frank Krygowski

Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop barlevers now feel spongy
 

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.

Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop bar leversnow feel spongy
 

On 12/19/2018 1:36 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.


Spend less.

I just had this discussion while making a customer's online
purchase of expensive cantilevers almost work.

Shimano engineered their basic cantilever BR-CT91 in the
1990s. They did an excellent job of design and only improved
it by scrapping the plastic spring covers such that they
still turn out millions of copies per year, retail under
$20. Cheap, quick setup and they just work.

The more you spend the less favorable the comparison until,
after about $100, we can't help you; they are not going to
adjust or stop well.

p.s. Directions are included in the box. Look at the
pictures and do it their way.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop barlevers now feel spongy
 

AMuzi wrote:
On 12/19/2018 1:36 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.


Spend less.

I just had this discussion while making a customer's online
purchase of expensive cantilevers almost work.

Shimano engineered their basic cantilever BR-CT91 in the
1990s. They did an excellent job of design and only improved
it by scrapping the plastic spring covers such that they
still turn out millions of copies per year, retail under
$20. Cheap, quick setup and they just work.

The more you spend the less favorable the comparison until,
after about $100, we can't help you; they are not going to
adjust or stop well.

p.s. Directions are included in the box. Look at the
pictures and do it their way.


Thanks Andrew. The brakes I have on the bike are the basic Tektro Oryx that
came with the bike (Surly LHT), but there has been a lot of fiddling with
front hangers, straddle cables and brake shoes over the years. I think I've
finally managed to move it from "are there actually brakes on this bike?"
to "OK". If you think the Shimanos will work better than the Tektros, I'll
shell out the $50 for a pair.

Put Interrupter levers on MTB Drop bar bike and drop bar leversnow feel spongy
 

On 12/19/2018 3:57 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
AMuzi wrote:
On 12/19/2018 1:36 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/19/2018 7:39 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, December 11, 2018 at 5:54:45 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Hi there.

I put Interupter levers on an MTB Drop bar bike with cantilever brakes
and now drop bar levers feel spongy. The interrupter levers feel fine.
Any ideas why the two different types of brake levers feel so
different? I did NOT have this problem when I did the same thing to my
touring bike also with cantilever brake calipers.

Thanks and cheers.

I think that possibly something was seated properly somewhere. After I
posted the original query I was on another ride and discovered that the
rear brake interrupter lever felt spongy too. I just took up some slack
on the transverse cable on the rear brakes and now everything is fine.
The straddle cable holder could not be any lower because it'd interfere
with the fenders that are going on as soon as I take them off another bike.

Cantilever brakes plus fenders seems to be one area where a V-brake is
easier to set up for optimum braking power.

I agree, although V brakes work well with only a few lever types. And
they don't have the cantilever's adjustability, although I guess there
are a few brake levers with adjustable mechanical advantage.

But then, only we geeks value adjustability in braking force.


After years of fiddling with screechy, ineffective cantis, I'd love to find
an STI compatible V brake.


Spend less.

I just had this discussion while making a customer's online
purchase of expensive cantilevers almost work.

Shimano engineered their basic cantilever BR-CT91 in the
1990s. They did an excellent job of design and only improved
it by scrapping the plastic spring covers such that they
still turn out millions of copies per year, retail under
$20. Cheap, quick setup and they just work.

The more you spend the less favorable the comparison until,
after about $100, we can't help you; they are not going to
adjust or stop well.

p.s. Directions are included in the box. Look at the
pictures and do it their way.


Thanks Andrew. The brakes I have on the bike are the basic Tektro Oryx that
came with the bike (Surly LHT), but there has been a lot of fiddling with
front hangers, straddle cables and brake shoes over the years. I think I've
finally managed to move it from "are there actually brakes on this bike?"
to "OK". If you think the Shimanos will work better than the Tektros, I'll
shell out the $50 for a pair.


Shimano SRP is $16.95/side or $32.90. Really.

I'm as much a critic of Shimano as anyone where warranted
but there are things they do better than everyone else and
this is one of them.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971