brake adjust screw (screw with hole and cylinder)
 

1) What do you call it?

2) And the little threaded stay and whole apparatus?

3) Do you put the nut above or below the stay? I'd say
above but I've seen it below so many times by now
I'm starting to doubt my intuition.

Perhaps it should be above, only people sometimes
put it down under so to have the screw in maximum
downward position to begin with?

Maybe if you pull it tight upwards from under, it
can have an effect still?

4) Why don't they (the manufacturers) do the adjusting
screw cylinder a hex shape?

That way you'd screw it with a 8mm combination
spanner open end. Now it can be pretty stiff to
spin it with your fingers if the brake is in place
with wire.

Any trick to that? E.g., will pulling the brake arm
at the same time make it easier? Not that much, ey?

5) Is it necessary, or not really necessary, to add
a little end cap (ferrule?) to the cable housing?

Sometimes the cable is to wide for this anyway.

Or is is OK to just cut the housing and then widen
the opening? That's OK, right?

6) Any other tricks or funny facts WRT this issue?

TIA

--
underground experts exiled

brake adjust screw (screw with hole and cylinder)
 

On 5/22/2018 4:53 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
1) What do you call it?

2) And the little threaded stay and whole apparatus?

3) Do you put the nut above or below the stay? I'd say
above but I've seen it below so many times by now
I'm starting to doubt my intuition.

Perhaps it should be above, only people sometimes
put it down under so to have the screw in maximum
downward position to begin with?

Maybe if you pull it tight upwards from under, it
can have an effect still?

4) Why don't they (the manufacturers) do the adjusting
screw cylinder a hex shape?

That way you'd screw it with a 8mm combination
spanner open end. Now it can be pretty stiff to
spin it with your fingers if the brake is in place
with wire.

Any trick to that? E.g., will pulling the brake arm
at the same time make it easier? Not that much, ey?

5) Is it necessary, or not really necessary, to add
a little end cap (ferrule?) to the cable housing?

Sometimes the cable is to wide for this anyway.

Or is is OK to just cut the housing and then widen
the opening? That's OK, right?

6) Any other tricks or funny facts WRT this issue?

TIA


a cable adjuster?
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...ast/WEINQR.JPG

oil it and you won't need a wrench. More tips he
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/WEINTECH.JPG

Some older adjusters ( mostly gear systems) were made for
smaller spiral casing. Trim the vinyl off of the last 3~4mm
and they slip right in.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

brake adjust screw (screw with hole and cylinder)
 

On Tuesday, May 22, 2018 at 11:53:40 AM UTC+2, Emanuel Berg wrote:
1) What do you call it?

2) And the little threaded stay and whole apparatus?

3) Do you put the nut above or below the stay? I'd say
above but I've seen it below so many times by now
I'm starting to doubt my intuition.

Perhaps it should be above, only people sometimes
put it down under so to have the screw in maximum
downward position to begin with?

Maybe if you pull it tight upwards from under, it
can have an effect still?

4) Why don't they (the manufacturers) do the adjusting
screw cylinder a hex shape?

That way you'd screw it with a 8mm combination
spanner open end. Now it can be pretty stiff to
spin it with your fingers if the brake is in place
with wire.

Any trick to that? E.g., will pulling the brake arm
at the same time make it easier? Not that much, ey?

5) Is it necessary, or not really necessary, to add
a little end cap (ferrule?) to the cable housing?

Sometimes the cable is to wide for this anyway.

Or is is OK to just cut the housing and then widen
the opening? That's OK, right?

6) Any other tricks or funny facts WRT this issue?

TIA

--
underground experts exiled

Pinch the caliper by hand towards the rim and then adjust. Much easier when it not preloaded by the caliper spring.

Lou

brake adjust screw (screw with hole and cylinder)
 

brake adjust screw (screw with hole and cylinder)
 

AMuzi writes:

a cable adjuster?
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...ast/WEINQR.JPG

oil it and you won't need a wrench. More tips he
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/WEINTECH.JPG

That's it, mine looks like the Weinmann (first image)
or number 3 in the second image.

Some older adjusters ( mostly gear systems) were
made for smaller spiral casing. Trim the vinyl off
of the last 3~4mm and they slip right in.

Right, one can do that. Here, they do actually slip
in, just not with a ferrule. So it is the ferrule that
needs to be trimmed in that case.

But doesn't the adjusting barrel act like a ferrule of
sorts? Or what functionality/protection is lost
exactly from not using a ferrule?

--
underground experts exiled

brake adjust screw (screw with hole and cylinder)
 

On 5/22/2018 1:18 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
AMuzi writes:

a cable adjuster?
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...ast/WEINQR.JPG

oil it and you won't need a wrench. More tips he
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/WEINTECH.JPG

That's it, mine looks like the Weinmann (first image)
or number 3 in the second image.

Some older adjusters ( mostly gear systems) were
made for smaller spiral casing. Trim the vinyl off
of the last 3~4mm and they slip right in.

Right, one can do that. Here, they do actually slip
in, just not with a ferrule. So it is the ferrule that
needs to be trimmed in that case.

But doesn't the adjusting barrel act like a ferrule of
sorts? Or what functionality/protection is lost
exactly from not using a ferrule?


If you find plain ferrules pretty, use them. They are not
needed with spiral casing.

Some parts (many classic brake levers, diver-helmet brazed
stops, etc) need a step-down ferrule. Modern index (linear)
gear casing absolutely requires square-end gear ferrules but
that's another subject.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971