Slow down rusting of chain
 

I have been using a silicone spray on my chain, but it isn't long before it rusts.

Anything better?

What about about Squirt Long Lasting Dry Chain Lube ?

Thanks.

Slow down rusting of chain
 

On 12/09/18 03:20, Andy wrote:
I have been using a silicone spray on my chain, but it isn't long before it rusts.

Anything better?

What about about Squirt Long Lasting Dry Chain Lube ?

Thanks.


Here starts another chain lube war...

You need to use something more oily - like mineral oil.

I use a mixture of paraffin wax and oil, about 50/50 by volume.

The solution is solid at room temperature, so I use a quick link in my
chain to facilitate easy removal, and once a month or so remove the
chain and put it in an old cooking pot with the wax, and heat it on the
stove.

Once the wax is liquid, I remove the chain with pointy pliers and wipe
off any excess hot wax with a rag before fitting the chain back on the bike.

The time it takes to heat the wax is usually long enough for me to clean
and inspect the rest of the bike. The wax doesn't encourage a horrid
build up of crud in the cassette, derailleur or chainrings. They remain
relatively clean.

I don't have problems with rusty chains and I have ridden in wet weather
soon after treating the chain and not re-treated it for another 1000km
or so. It doesn't even squeak.

I don't live where they salt the roads to combat ice.

--
JS

Slow down rusting of chain
 

On Tue, 11 Sep 2018 10:20:48 -0700 (PDT), Andy
wrote:

I have been using a silicone spray on my chain, but it isn't long before it rusts.

Anything better?

What about about Squirt Long Lasting Dry Chain Lube ?

Thanks.

A high viscosity oil of some sort, one that will stay on the chain.
This will, of course, collect dirt and crud whereupon you will need to
clean the chain.

Slow down rusting of chain
 

On 9/11/2018 5:32 PM, James wrote:
On 12/09/18 03:20, Andy wrote:
I have been using a silicone spray on my chain, but it isn't long
before it rusts.

Anything better?

What about aboutÂ* Squirt Long Lasting Dry Chain Lube ?

Thanks.


Here starts another chain lube war...

You need to use something more oily - like mineral oil.

I use a mixture of paraffin wax and oil, about 50/50 by volume.

The solution is solid at room temperature, so I use a quick link in my
chain to facilitate easy removal, and once a month or so remove the
chain and put it in an old cooking pot with the wax, and heat it on the
stove.

Once the wax is liquid, I remove the chain with pointy pliers and wipe
off any excess hot wax with a rag before fitting the chain back on the
bike.

The time it takes to heat the wax is usually long enough for me to clean
and inspect the rest of the bike.Â* The wax doesn't encourage a horrid
build up of crud in the cassette, derailleur or chainrings.Â* They remain
relatively clean.

I don't have problems with rusty chains and I have ridden in wet weather
soon after treating the chain and not re-treated it for another 1000km
or so.Â* It doesn't even squeak.

I don't live where they salt the roads to combat ice.

John Allen seems to have recently revised the Sheldon Brown page about
chain lube, at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear

Here's one new part. And note the "recent research" statement contained
within. The links are at the bottom of the page.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Waxing Chains

An alternative approach to chain lubrication is to immerse the chain in
hot wax. This is a variation on the oil/solvent approach. The hot wax is
of a thin enough consistency that it can theoretically penetrate into
the private parts of the chain, then when it cools off, you have a nice
thick lubricant in place where it can do the most good. The major
advantage to this approach is that, once cooled off, the wax is not
sticky, and doesn't attract dirt to the outside of the chain as readily.
The wax approach is a great deal of trouble, and wax is probably not as
good a lubricant as oil or grease.

Recent research has suggested, though, that wax in fact has lower
friction than other lubricants. See links at the end of this article.

Wax is flammable and should be heated in a double boiler or a warm oven.
Some outside-the-box advice

Reader Dana Munelt has made an outside the box suggestion:

My two cents on chain lube: hot waxing with wax toilet ring seals. A
soft, low temp, almost greasy wax available at home centers. Doesn't
seem to clean off with citrus cleaner, but paint thinner works, and WD40
really works.

And some advice from inside the box:

The advice inside this box offers a formula for something similar to
factory lube.

Gallia chain box

(I thank Richard Bryne of Speedplay for permission to use these photos
from the Speedplay online museum. The translation from French is mine --
John Allen.)

DO NOT RUIN YOUR CHAIN!

For the longest service life, lubricate generously.
If your bicycle is equipped with an "oil bath", make sure that the
lower run of your chain always passes completely through the oil.
If you do not have an oil bath, remove the chain every three
months. Melt a mixture of 3/4 tallow and 1/4 paraffin wax. Clean your
chain carefully and soak it in this mixture. Agitate the chain well, so
the lubricant penetrates between the rivets and bushings.
This type of lubrication prevents mud, sand and water from
penetrating into the working parts of the chain.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyone care to try tallow plus paraffin? I'm not that organic. ;-)


--
- Frank Krygowski

Slow down rusting of chain
 

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/11/2018 5:32 PM, James wrote:
On 12/09/18 03:20, Andy wrote:
I have been using a silicone spray on my chain, but it isn't long
before it rusts.

Anything better?

What about about* Squirt Long Lasting Dry Chain Lube ?

Thanks.


Here starts another chain lube war...

You need to use something more oily - like mineral oil.

I use a mixture of paraffin wax and oil, about 50/50 by volume.

The solution is solid at room temperature, so I use a quick link in my
chain to facilitate easy removal, and once a month or so remove the
chain and put it in an old cooking pot with the wax, and heat it on the
stove.

Once the wax is liquid, I remove the chain with pointy pliers and wipe
off any excess hot wax with a rag before fitting the chain back on the
bike.

The time it takes to heat the wax is usually long enough for me to clean
and inspect the rest of the bike.* The wax doesn't encourage a horrid
build up of crud in the cassette, derailleur or chainrings.* They remain
relatively clean.

I don't have problems with rusty chains and I have ridden in wet weather
soon after treating the chain and not re-treated it for another 1000km
or so.* It doesn't even squeak.

I don't live where they salt the roads to combat ice.

John Allen seems to have recently revised the Sheldon Brown page about
chain lube, at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear

Here's one new part. And note the "recent research" statement contained
within. The links are at the bottom of the page.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Waxing Chains

An alternative approach to chain lubrication is to immerse the chain in
hot wax. This is a variation on the oil/solvent approach. The hot wax is
of a thin enough consistency that it can theoretically penetrate into
the private parts of the chain, then when it cools off, you have a nice
thick lubricant in place where it can do the most good. The major
advantage to this approach is that, once cooled off, the wax is not
sticky, and doesn't attract dirt to the outside of the chain as readily.
The wax approach is a great deal of trouble, and wax is probably not as
good a lubricant as oil or grease.

Recent research has suggested, though, that wax in fact has lower
friction than other lubricants. See links at the end of this article.

Wax is flammable and should be heated in a double boiler or a warm oven.
Some outside-the-box advice

Reader Dana Munelt has made an outside the box suggestion:

My two cents on chain lube: hot waxing with wax toilet ring seals. A
soft, low temp, almost greasy wax available at home centers. Doesn't
seem to clean off with citrus cleaner, but paint thinner works, and WD40
really works.

And some advice from inside the box:

The advice inside this box offers a formula for something similar to
factory lube.

Gallia chain box

(I thank Richard Bryne of Speedplay for permission to use these photos
from the Speedplay online museum. The translation from French is mine --
John Allen.)

DO NOT RUIN YOUR CHAIN!

For the longest service life, lubricate generously.
If your bicycle is equipped with an "oil bath", make sure that the
lower run of your chain always passes completely through the oil.
If you do not have an oil bath, remove the chain every three
months. Melt a mixture of 3/4 tallow and 1/4 paraffin wax. Clean your
chain carefully and soak it in this mixture. Agitate the chain well, so
the lubricant penetrates between the rivets and bushings.
This type of lubrication prevents mud, sand and water from
penetrating into the working parts of the chain.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyone care to try tallow plus paraffin? I'm not that organic. ;-)



I tried bacon grease and paraffin, but it kept attracting bears.

Slow down rusting of chain
 

Ralph Barone writes:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/11/2018 5:32 PM, James wrote:
On 12/09/18 03:20, Andy wrote:
I have been using a silicone spray on my chain, but it isn't long
before it rusts.

Anything better?

What about aboutÂ* Squirt Long Lasting Dry Chain Lube ?

Thanks.


Here starts another chain lube war...

You need to use something more oily - like mineral oil.

I use a mixture of paraffin wax and oil, about 50/50 by volume.

The solution is solid at room temperature, so I use a quick link in my
chain to facilitate easy removal, and once a month or so remove the
chain and put it in an old cooking pot with the wax, and heat it on the
stove.

Once the wax is liquid, I remove the chain with pointy pliers and wipe
off any excess hot wax with a rag before fitting the chain back on the
bike.

The time it takes to heat the wax is usually long enough for me to clean
and inspect the rest of the bike.Â* The wax doesn't encourage a horrid
build up of crud in the cassette, derailleur or chainrings.Â* They remain
relatively clean.

I don't have problems with rusty chains and I have ridden in wet weather
soon after treating the chain and not re-treated it for another 1000km
or so.Â* It doesn't even squeak.

I don't live where they salt the roads to combat ice.

John Allen seems to have recently revised the Sheldon Brown page about
chain lube, at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear

Here's one new part. And note the "recent research" statement contained
within. The links are at the bottom of the page.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Waxing Chains

An alternative approach to chain lubrication is to immerse the chain in
hot wax. This is a variation on the oil/solvent approach. The hot wax is
of a thin enough consistency that it can theoretically penetrate into
the private parts of the chain, then when it cools off, you have a nice
thick lubricant in place where it can do the most good. The major
advantage to this approach is that, once cooled off, the wax is not
sticky, and doesn't attract dirt to the outside of the chain as readily.
The wax approach is a great deal of trouble, and wax is probably not as
good a lubricant as oil or grease.

Recent research has suggested, though, that wax in fact has lower
friction than other lubricants. See links at the end of this article.

Wax is flammable and should be heated in a double boiler or a warm oven.
Some outside-the-box advice

Reader Dana Munelt has made an outside the box suggestion:

My two cents on chain lube: hot waxing with wax toilet ring seals. A
soft, low temp, almost greasy wax available at home centers. Doesn't
seem to clean off with citrus cleaner, but paint thinner works, and WD40
really works.

And some advice from inside the box:

The advice inside this box offers a formula for something similar to
factory lube.

Gallia chain box

(I thank Richard Bryne of Speedplay for permission to use these photos
from the Speedplay online museum. The translation from French is mine --
John Allen.)

DO NOT RUIN YOUR CHAIN!

For the longest service life, lubricate generously.
If your bicycle is equipped with an "oil bath", make sure that the
lower run of your chain always passes completely through the oil.
If you do not have an oil bath, remove the chain every three
months. Melt a mixture of 3/4 tallow and 1/4 paraffin wax. Clean your
chain carefully and soak it in this mixture. Agitate the chain well, so
the lubricant penetrates between the rivets and bushings.
This type of lubrication prevents mud, sand and water from
penetrating into the working parts of the chain.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Anyone care to try tallow plus paraffin? I'm not that organic. ;-)



I tried bacon grease and paraffin, but it kept attracting bears.

Try bear grease, that'll teach 'em.

Slow down rusting of chain
 

On 9/11/2018 8:54 PM, Radey Shouman wrote:


Try bear grease, that'll teach 'em.

Why would someone try to grease a bear?


--
- Frank Krygowski

Slow down rusting of chain
 

On Tuesday, September 11, 2018 at 4:32:55 PM UTC-5, James wrote:
On 12/09/18 03:20, Andy wrote:
I have been using a silicone spray on my chain, but it isn't long before it rusts.

Anything better?

What about about Squirt Long Lasting Dry Chain Lube ?

Thanks.


Here starts another chain lube war...

You need to use something more oily - like mineral oil.

I use a mixture of paraffin wax and oil, about 50/50 by volume.

The solution is solid at room temperature, so I use a quick link in my
chain to facilitate easy removal, and once a month or so remove the
chain and put it in an old cooking pot with the wax, and heat it on the
stove.

Once the wax is liquid, I remove the chain with pointy pliers and wipe
off any excess hot wax with a rag before fitting the chain back on the bike.

The time it takes to heat the wax is usually long enough for me to clean
and inspect the rest of the bike. The wax doesn't encourage a horrid
build up of crud in the cassette, derailleur or chainrings. They remain
relatively clean.

I don't have problems with rusty chains and I have ridden in wet weather
soon after treating the chain and not re-treated it for another 1000km
or so. It doesn't even squeak.

I don't live where they salt the roads to combat ice.

--
JS

It's only a war if people lose perspective.

While you method works well, it is way too much work for me.

Andy

Slow down rusting of chain
 

Frank Krygowski writes:

On 9/11/2018 8:54 PM, Radey Shouman wrote:


Try bear grease, that'll teach 'em.

Why would someone try to grease a bear?

Same reason one might grease a goose, I guess.

--

Slow down rusting of chain
 

On Tuesday, September 11, 2018 at 6:06:28 PM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 11 Sep 2018 10:20:48 -0700 (PDT), Andy
wrote:

I have been using a silicone spray on my chain, but it isn't long before it rusts.

Anything better?

What about about Squirt Long Lasting Dry Chain Lube ?

Thanks.

A high viscosity oil of some sort, one that will stay on the chain.
This will, of course, collect dirt and crud whereupon you will need to
clean the chain.

I have been riding bikes for over 50 years.

Never wore out a chain.

And have never had a chain that collected that much dirt.

Maybe if I rode over a desert. :-)

Andy