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Old news to some, but when I decided to put a new Ultegra bottom bracket in my commuter bike last night -- which was a mere $15 on sale at Western Bikeworks -- I was surprised to find that my shop tool didn't fit. There is now a different diameter tool needed for DA, Ultegra and 105. The BB ships with a plastic adapter so I could use my old tool, and unlike some, I found it perfectly adequate to get the torque I needed, but really . . . I should now buy a tool that costs more than the BB? https://www.westernbikeworks.com/pro...m-bracket-tool I already have about a zillion outdated BB tools (Octalink, Isis, square drive, Phil, weird TruVativ, etc., etc.). I should start a museum.

I also got an incredible deal on a 105 compact crank to save my dying knees.. That was a super snug fit, and I had to give it a pretty good whack to seat it. I regret not buying Ultegra since the 105 is a little cheesy with a steel inner ring, and it is heavy. Oh well. I saved a bunch of money. Shortened the chain and dropped the derailleur, threw on some newer pedals that I retrieved form my son -- and voila, the same old boat with a new crank.


I just repacked the rear hub and removed and cleaned the freehub body, and now that sounds like a truck barreling down the road. I need to do some more lubing on the freehub body bearings. Any idea for lubricant? I don't have one of those freehub buddy things and was going to use 30W or something like it.

-- Jay Beattie.

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ON THE FREE HUB INJECTOR.....the FHB allows injecting a MINIMAL of real slippery stuff eg very light synthetic. IMHO never having used one hehehhehhe.

haven't done a VERY LIGHT SYNTHETIC search for years so get to it....an interesting cyberjourney from Galactic Sperm Oil to the top off Finish Line Red. Aircraft to drag racers to F1. The Wright Bro remeber ?

where is a small displacement hi output motor used in short duration lives? What could be used to thin Valvo or Castrol synthetic 2 stroke oil ? Gnaw not slippery enough...what does Yamaha use in 2F1 ? Or the Shrink Bro ?

Ibain blending gasoline with some success. No doubt possible here in oil...ask your friends. Tellum abt your your garage sale .....http://www.toonopedia.com/gyro.jpg

off course once the hub goes noisy then you need a new hub. a new set of Mil Spec G5's ?

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On 3/25/2016 1:16 PM, jbeattie wrote:
I need to do some more lubing on the freehub body bearings. Any idea for lubricant?

Uh oh. This could lead to a religious argument!

--
- Frank Krygowski

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slide in

https://www.google.com/#q=slipperies...etic+lubricant

you know as rumored here on the street, one of the Johnson/Gordon/Dupont ....Honda team unfair advantages was a watery synth -30W lube adding mega HP without causing excess wear with off/on combustion pressure

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On 3/25/2016 12:16 PM, jbeattie wrote:
Old news to some, but when I decided to put a new Ultegra bottom bracket in my commuter bike last night -- which was a mere $15 on sale at Western Bikeworks -- I was surprised to find that my shop tool didn't fit. There is now a different diameter tool needed for DA, Ultegra and 105. The BB ships with a plastic adapter so I could use my old tool, and unlike some, I found it perfectly adequate to get the torque I needed, but really . . . I should now buy a tool that costs more than the BB? https://www.westernbikeworks.com/pro...m-bracket-tool I already have about a zillion outdated BB tools (Octalink, Isis, square drive, Phil, weird TruVativ, etc., etc.). I should start a museum.

I also got an incredible deal on a 105 compact crank to save my dying knees. That was a super snug fit, and I had to give it a pretty good whack to seat it. I regret not buying Ultegra since the 105 is a little cheesy with a steel inner ring, and it is heavy. Oh well. I saved a bunch of money. Shortened the chain and dropped the derailleur, threw on some newer pedals that I retrieved form my son -- and voila, the same old boat with a new crank.


I just repacked the rear hub and removed and cleaned the freehub body, and now that sounds like a truck barreling down the road. I need to do some more lubing on the freehub body bearings. Any idea for lubricant? I don't have one of those freehub buddy things and was going to use 30W or something like it.

-- Jay Beattie.


30W is a good choice.
Steel inner ring is prudent if you ride a lot they wear much
longer.

Different tools every year? I feel your pain. Oh, do I ever.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

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at Yellow Jersey, if not a trade secret, what is added to a racer's request for hub maintenance ?

is the idea/practice of adding enough for one ride then adding more thru the Hub Buddy advance friction losses thru less sticky light weight synthetic.. zbearing lube is sticky caws its supposed tostay o the bearings/races for a time but with the Buddy the stickness isn't necessary.

In a vehicle with mega sq ft more rolling area tha a cycle, the gains in HP rolling forward at less rpm or a more effortless piston cycle/transmission rotation are instantly obvious.

with a cycle same goes as there's so much less HP to waste in friction losses.

comment ?

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research

try the Ford


http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ntail+additive

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On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 7:29:41 AM UTC-4, wrote:
research

try the Ford


http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ntail+additive

ahhh know the little bottle of lube Universal was selling uh 4 years ? Have an unopened vial.

cudbe the Universal chain lube has the Ford synth type in it.

try the fingerprint test

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On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 10:16:31 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
Old news to some, but when I decided to put a new Ultegra bottom bracket in my commuter bike last night -- which was a mere $15 on sale at Western Bikeworks -- I was surprised to find that my shop tool didn't fit. There is now a different diameter tool needed for DA, Ultegra and 105. The BB ships with a plastic adapter so I could use my old tool, and unlike some, I found it perfectly adequate to get the torque I needed, but really . . . I should now buy a tool that costs more than the BB? https://www.westernbikeworks.com/pro...m-bracket-tool I already have about a zillion outdated BB tools (Octalink, Isis, square drive, Phil, weird TruVativ, etc., etc.). I should start a museum.

I also got an incredible deal on a 105 compact crank to save my dying knees. That was a super snug fit, and I had to give it a pretty good whack to seat it. I regret not buying Ultegra since the 105 is a little cheesy with a steel inner ring, and it is heavy. Oh well. I saved a bunch of money. Shortened the chain and dropped the derailleur, threw on some newer pedals that I retrieved form my son -- and voila, the same old boat with a new crank..


I just repacked the rear hub and removed and cleaned the freehub body, and now that sounds like a truck barreling down the road. I need to do some more lubing on the freehub body bearings. Any idea for lubricant? I don't have one of those freehub buddy things and was going to use 30W or something like it.

-- Jay Beattie.

I had the same experience but your threads have to be perfectly clean and straight. It wouldn't work on an older frame until I had the threads cleaned..

There are so many special tools now being required that generally speaking it's easier to take the bike into a shop to have these things done than to stock up on tools that will be obsolete next year.

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On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 9:20:23 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Friday, March 25, 2016 at 10:16:31 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
Old news to some, but when I decided to put a new Ultegra bottom bracket in my commuter bike last night -- which was a mere $15 on sale at Western Bikeworks -- I was surprised to find that my shop tool didn't fit. There is now a different diameter tool needed for DA, Ultegra and 105. The BB ships with a plastic adapter so I could use my old tool, and unlike some, I found it perfectly adequate to get the torque I needed, but really . . . I should now buy a tool that costs more than the BB? https://www.westernbikeworks.com/pro...m-bracket-tool I already have about a zillion outdated BB tools (Octalink, Isis, square drive, Phil, weird TruVativ, etc., etc.). I should start a museum.

I also got an incredible deal on a 105 compact crank to save my dying knees. That was a super snug fit, and I had to give it a pretty good whack to seat it. I regret not buying Ultegra since the 105 is a little cheesy with a steel inner ring, and it is heavy. Oh well. I saved a bunch of money. Shortened the chain and dropped the derailleur, threw on some newer pedals that I retrieved form my son -- and voila, the same old boat with a new crank.


I just repacked the rear hub and removed and cleaned the freehub body, and now that sounds like a truck barreling down the road. I need to do some more lubing on the freehub body bearings. Any idea for lubricant? I don't have one of those freehub buddy things and was going to use 30W or something like it.

-- Jay Beattie.

I had the same experience but your threads have to be perfectly clean and straight. It wouldn't work on an older frame until I had the threads cleaned.

There are so many special tools now being required that generally speaking it's easier to take the bike into a shop to have these things done than to stock up on tools that will be obsolete next year.

The saving grace is that the new Ultegra BB comes with a plastic adapter to use with the old shop tool. Some have complained that the adapter strips when you apply the recommended torque 35-50nm. I didn't have that problem.

The good part is that a first-class BB costs only $16 https://www.westernbikeworks.com/pro...m-bracket-cups Western Bikeworks sells via internet, but it is a bricks and mortar store for me in PDX. https://www.westernbikeworks.com/visit-store

The seals are decent, and I got a lot of wear out of my last BB (which was the old model), so although these BBs are more or less disposable, the replacement cost is less than a decent chain.


-- Jay Beattie.