three questions
1) What does for example 7075-T6 mean? I read
it is stell alloy and heat treatment but what do the digits and letters mean, or are they just a designation so you can look up the properties, and if so where? 2) A guy has had a flat tire several times but the tire looks OK. The suspicion is, if the rim tape is too broad for the rim so it forms a flat "U" letter, and what happens is the ends cut thru the tube. Is this heard of? The rim tape is from Specialized. It looks a little broad but I wouldn't have noticed unless there was this little mystery. 3) On a boat I'm working on, there are several cases where the screws are loose in their holes. What do you typically do? Get a longer screw? Or do you use Loctite, crazy-glue, etc.? Thank you :) -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
three questions
On 7/23/2017 6:44 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
1) What does for example 7075-T6 mean? I read it is stell alloy and heat treatment but what do the digits and letters mean, or are they just a designation so you can look up the properties, and if so where? 2) A guy has had a flat tire several times but the tire looks OK. The suspicion is, if the rim tape is too broad for the rim so it forms a flat "U" letter, and what happens is the ends cut thru the tube. Is this heard of? The rim tape is from Specialized. It looks a little broad but I wouldn't have noticed unless there was this little mystery. 3) On a boat I'm working on, there are several cases where the screws are loose in their holes. What do you typically do? Get a longer screw? Or do you use Loctite, crazy-glue, etc.? Thank you :) 1. 7075 is a material. It's an aluminum with a specific alloy composition. T6 is a temper/hardness finish value. Details he http://www.esabna.com/us/en/educatio...ion-system.cfm 2. I do not know but you can. Mark your tire, rim and valve before removing the tube. Inflate tube, mark the leak. The injury will either be on the outside = tire problem or it will be on the inside = rim/rim liner problem. If your rim liner occludes the tire bead seat, blue in image he http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/rimpins.jpg then the tire will be difficult or impossible to seat properly. Other problems may ensue as well. Note center rim style takes a fabric or polyurethane liner, left and right use a rubber liner. 3. Assuming this is a wooden boat, I would consult a man who knows wooden boats. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
three questions
On Mon, 24 Jul 2017 01:44:33 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: 1) What does for example 7075-T6 mean? I read it is stell alloy and heat treatment but what do the digits and letters mean, or are they just a designation so you can look up the properties, and if so where? 7975 is a specific aluminum alloy which contains zinc among other elements and is probably the strongest of the various aluminum alloys. It was developed in Japan in 1943 and was, perhaps, one of the reasons that Japanese aircraft had such good performance. The "T" designation is a designation of physical properties usually brought about by a combination of heat treatment and age hardening. T0 has a tensile strength of ~280MPa and a yield strength of ~140 MPa while T6 has a tensile strength of ~540 MPa and a yield strength of ~480 MPa. There are 5 (if I remember correctly) different codes used for 7075. 2) A guy has had a flat tire several times but the tire looks OK. The suspicion is, if the rim tape is too broad for the rim so it forms a flat "U" letter, and what happens is the ends cut thru the tube. Is this heard of? The rim tape is from Specialized. It looks a little broad but I wouldn't have noticed unless there was this little mystery. 3) On a boat I'm working on, there are several cases where the screws are loose in their holes. What do you typically do? Get a longer screw? Or do you use Loctite, crazy-glue, etc.? Thank you :) If this is a "wood screw" depending on what the screw is holding perhaps a larger diameter screw. If a "machine screw" then perhaps loctite. -- Cheers, John B. |
three questions
AMuzi wrote:
[...] Excellent, thank you! -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
three questions
John B. Slocomb wrote:
If this is a "wood screw" depending on what the screw is holding perhaps a larger diameter screw. If a "machine screw" then perhaps loctite. It is all big wood screws. A larger diameter won't do as it'll then be too big to pass thru the hole of whatever it is it should hold. Could you fill the hole with something and then screw anew? Or forget about the screw and glue the detail? Will that carry enough strength, and be resistant? Typically it is three screws in a circle, and one of them is loose. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
three questions
On Sunday, July 23, 2017 at 10:26:26 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
John B. Slocomb wrote: If this is a "wood screw" depending on what the screw is holding perhaps a larger diameter screw. If a "machine screw" then perhaps loctite. It is all big wood screws. A larger diameter won't do as it'll then be too big to pass thru the hole of whatever it is it should hold. Could you fill the hole with something and then screw anew? Or forget about the screw and glue the detail? Will that carry enough strength, and be resistant? Typically it is three screws in a circle, and one of them is loose. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Epoxy in a wood plug. When cured drill the plug and insert the screw. Cheers |
three questions
Emanuel Berg wrote:
:John B. Slocomb wrote: : If this is a "wood screw" depending on what : the screw is holding perhaps a larger : diameter screw. If a "machine screw" then : perhaps loctite. :It is all big wood screws. A larger diameter :won't do as it'll then be too big to pass thru :the hole of whatever it is it should hold. :Could you fill the hole with something and then :screw anew? In general carpentry, the solution is to drill the hole in the wood out to a standard size, and glue with wood glue a dowel (wooden rod) the same size as the drilled hole in the hole. Once the glue is dry, cut it flush with the surface with a chisel, redrill the hole, reinstall the screw. The end result is at least as good as new, often better. I have done this for countless door hinge screws, and my carpentry tool bag has a selection of dowels cut to 2" lengths for the purpose. Sometimes, it makes sense to replace a bigger section of wood, but the general idea is the same. For things that don't carry much load, a couple wooden match sticks or toothpicks stuck around the edge of the hole can give the screw something to bite on. I would expect you could do something similar on a boat, but I'd take expert advice on what glues are suitable. -- sig 20 |
three questions
David Scheidt wrote:
In general carpentry, the solution is to drill the hole in the wood out to a standard size, and glue with wood glue a dowel (wooden rod) the same size as the drilled hole in the hole. Once the glue is dry, cut it flush with the surface with a chisel, redrill the hole, reinstall the screw. Any preference what woods the dowel should be? The same as the original material? Doesn't matter just hard? -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
three questions
On Mon, 24 Jul 2017 04:26:22 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: Could you fill the hole with something and then screw anew? Yes. That's what I do. Most commonly, I use strips of wood or toothpicks arranged in a bundle. I cram them into the hole and break off the excess wood. Re-install the wood screw and you're done. However, if the sides of the hole a smooth, the strips of wood or toothpicks might slide in and out. For those, I just slop some wood glue onto the sides of the hole before I insert the wood strips. Typically it is three screws in a circle, and one of them is loose. Deck plate? http://www.beckson.com/dpinstall.html http://www.downwindmarine.com/Deck-Plates-p-1-c-127.html If the metal plate gets walked on, it's likely that stepping on an edge produces a rocking action that prys out the nearest screw, much like a can opener. It's a common problem. There are many solutions, but I've found the best is to simply flatten and sand flat the cover plate and whatever lives under the plate so that it doesn't rock when someone stands on an edge. If the deck is warped or splintered, that's not going to happen. For those, I suggest replacing the metal deck plate with a plastic equivalent, which will bend when stepped on. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
three questions
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Deck plate? http://www.beckson.com/dpinstall.html http://www.downwindmarine.com/Deck-Plates-p-1-c-127.html If the metal plate gets walked on, it's likely that stepping on an edge produces a rocking action that prys out the nearest screw, much like a can opener. It's a common problem. There are many solutions, but I've found the best is to simply flatten and sand flat the cover plate and whatever lives under the plate so that it doesn't rock when someone stands on an edge. If the deck is warped or splintered, that's not going to happen. For those, I suggest replacing the metal deck plate with a plastic equivalent, which will bend when stepped on. Very interesting, thank you. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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