I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...
 

.... however, I had an old, quality frame from the '80s with 100K on
it; the components were worn, so I set it up with a "flip flop" hub
and I found that it suits me well.

One question, though: chain tension is a bear. When you have to
remove the rear wheel, what's the best method of getting it back in
with correct tension on the drive chain? I need a few more hands, I
fear. The BMX crowd has those chain devices that seem to work on that
style of drop out. What's my method with the 30 degree drop outs?

I have a solid axle.

I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...
 

On May 15, 11:42*am, Tom Lake wrote:
... however, I had an old, quality frame from the '80s with 100K on
it; the components were worn, so I set it up with a "flip flop" hub
and I found that it suits me well.

One question, though: chain tension is a bear. *When you have to
remove the rear wheel, what's the best method of getting it back in
with correct tension on the drive chain? *I need a few more hands, I
fear. *The BMX crowd has those chain devices that seem to work on that
style of drop out. *What's my method with the 30 degree drop outs?

I have a solid axle.

Have you read Sheldon on the subject?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html

There's a good section there about getting your chainring as
concentric as possible.

Sheldon also talks about "walking" the rear wheel into desired
position (serving to regulate chain tension). Tighten one side semi-
tight, work the wheel back and forth, tightening sides as appropriate
to arrive at correct chain tension with a centered wheel.
On a good day I can jam a hand in between the seat tube and the rear
tire and do it with two "tightens".

(excuse me) Don't check a moving chain's tension with your fingers,
any way shape or form. There are pictures of guys they started calling
"Stumpy" after one or more digits got sucked into the chain and drive
teeth of cog or chainring.

Fixed or freewheel (including the White Industries Dos Uno two-cog
fixed arrangement), good deal, it's fun. Just got my fixed out the
other day and had one of the best 2011 rides so far, excellent and I
only forgot once!
--D-y

I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...
 

On Sun, 15 May 2011 10:27:42 -0700 (PDT), in rec.bicycles.tech
" wrote:

Have you read Sheldon on the subject?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html

There's a good section there about getting your chainring as
concentric as possible.

Sheldon also talks about "walking" the rear wheel into desired
position (serving to regulate chain tension). Tighten one side semi-
tight, work the wheel back and forth, tightening sides as appropriate
to arrive at correct chain tension with a centered wheel.
On a good day I can jam a hand in between the seat tube and the rear
tire and do it with two "tightens".

(excuse me) Don't check a moving chain's tension with your fingers,
any way shape or form. There are pictures of guys they started calling
"Stumpy" after one or more digits got sucked into the chain and drive
teeth of cog or chainring.

Fixed or freewheel (including the White Industries Dos Uno two-cog
fixed arrangement), good deal, it's fun. Just got my fixed out the
other day and had one of the best 2011 rides so far, excellent and I
only forgot once!

Well, you'd think I'd read that first; however, I didn't. Methinks
his people should take that into a "wiki-bikes" type of format. I'd
bet Sheldon would approve. I never had the pleasure of meeting the
man.

If I were building a fixie from scratch, I think I'd go with a
vertical drop out and an eccentric BB shell in a chain case.

Now, you know what *I* think... use your next two wishes wisely!

I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...
 

Tom Lake wrote:
... however, I had an old, quality frame from the '80s with 100K on
it; the components were worn, so I set it up with a "flip flop" hub
and I found that it suits me well.

One question, though: chain tension is a bear. When you have to
remove the rear wheel, what's the best method of getting it back in
with correct tension on the drive chain? I need a few more hands, I
fear. The BMX crowd has those chain devices that seem to work on that
style of drop out. What's my method with the 30 degree drop outs?

I have a solid axle.


Lubricate your axle nuts.

Drop wheel in, snug up one side.
Check centering and chain tension, walk one side or the
other as needed, then fully tighten.

This isn't difficult or complex and note well that chain
needs this much slack:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/chainchk.html

Overly tight chain eats bearings and chainrings both
mercilessly and quickly.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...
 

On Sun, 15 May 2011 15:47:43 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech AMuzi
wrote:

Lubricate your axle nuts.

That's *way* too simple.

Surely, I should go out and buy something?

OTOH, I haven't actually tried that, yet.

I'll get back to you...

I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...
 

On 5/15/2011 12:42 PM, Tom Lake wrote:
... however, I had an old, quality frame from the '80s with 100K on
it; the components were worn, so I set it up with a "flip flop" hub
and I found that it suits me well.

One question, though: chain tension is a bear. When you have to
remove the rear wheel, what's the best method of getting it back in
with correct tension on the drive chain? I need a few more hands, I
fear. The BMX crowd has those chain devices that seem to work on that
style of drop out. What's my method with the 30 degree drop outs?

I have a solid axle.


I really dislike solid axles, particularly on fixers. I'd simply swap
out the axle for a hollow one with a skewer, makes life much simpler.

I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...
 

On May 15, 3:12*pm, Tom Lake wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2011 10:27:42 -0700 (PDT), in rec.bicycles.tech









" wrote:
Have you read Sheldon on the subject?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html

There's a good section there about getting your chainring as
concentric as possible.

Sheldon also talks about "walking" the rear wheel into desired
position (serving to regulate chain tension). Tighten one side semi-
tight, work the wheel back and forth, tightening sides as appropriate
to arrive at correct chain tension with a centered wheel.
On a good day I can jam a hand in between the seat tube and the rear
tire and do it with two "tightens".

(excuse me) Don't check a moving chain's tension with your fingers,
any way shape or form. There are pictures of guys they started calling
"Stumpy" after one or more digits got sucked into the chain and drive
teeth of cog or chainring.

Fixed or freewheel (including the White Industries Dos Uno two-cog
fixed arrangement), good deal, it's fun. Just got my fixed out the
other day and had one of the best 2011 rides so far, excellent and I
only forgot once!

Well, you'd think I'd read that first; however, I didn't. *Methinks
his people should take that into a "wiki-bikes" type of format. *I'd
bet Sheldon would approve. *I never had the pleasure of meeting the
man.

If I were building a fixie from scratch, I think I'd go with a
vertical drop out and an eccentric BB shell in a chain case.

Now, you know what *I* think... use your next two wishes wisely!

I'm quite fond of the sturdy and straightforward Redline tugnuts I use
on my single speed. Regular track dropouts. I rarely fuss with chain
tension, as you can pull the wheel, reinstall with the tugs, and the
chain will be exactly as it was before.

http://www.amazon.com/Redline-Alloy-...uct/B000AYEWUK

I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...
 

On Mon, 16 May 2011 08:23:52 -0400, in rec.bicycles.tech Peter Cole
wrote:

I really dislike solid axles, particularly on fixers. I'd simply swap
out the axle for a hollow one with a skewer, makes life much simpler.

Well, yeah... but why do something the easy way when, with a little
imagination, you can make it *much* more difficult?

I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...
 

On May 15, 10:29*pm, Tom Lake wrote:
On Sun, 15 May 2011 15:47:43 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech AMuzi

wrote:
Lubricate your axle nuts.

That's *way* too simple.

Surely, I should go out and buy something?

OTOH, I haven't actually tried that, yet.

I'll get back to you...

Knowledge is aquired by the observant student, it cannot be bought.

I didn't think I'd like a "fixie"...
 

Tom Lake wrote:

Peter Cole wrote:

I really dislike solid axles, particularly on fixers. I'd simply swap
out the axle for a hollow one with a skewer, makes life much simpler.

Well, yeah... but why do something the easy way when, with a little
imagination, you can make it *much* more difficult?

That seems to work for a subset of my customers, who go to lengths to
remove the brakes their bikes were originally furnished with.

Others pay me to swap in a nutted axle kit rather than learn how to
use a quick release skewer correctly. I have no reason to believe
that they will be better at tightening axle nuts than they were at
tightening their skewers, though.

Chalo