ITM Carbon Fiber Fork?
 

Does anyone know whatever happened to the ITM company that manufactured a
carbon fiber fork in the 90's?

There is presently an ITM company but it isn't the same one apparently.

ITM Carbon Fiber Fork?
 

On Jan 5, 9:28*am, "Tom Kunich" wrote:
Does anyone know whatever happened to the ITM company that manufactured a
carbon fiber fork in the 90's?

There is presently an ITM company but it isn't the same one apparently.

Try this:
http://www.itm.it/select/
I buy lots of ITM components and I have spoken directly with the US
rep for ITM.

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/pp/roa...-bike/ITM/ITAL
Ribble Cycles offers and good line of ITM products at a reasonable
price.

http://www.gottaridebikes.com/Mercha... %20%20%20ITM
Gotta Ride Bikes still has an inventory of the older stuff.

I have 3 road bikes all fitted with ITM components of Millenium, and
101 series. I looking to change one over to the Pathom series soon.
Good stuff IMO.
Coz

ITM Carbon Fiber Fork?
 

Tom Kunich wrote:
Does anyone know whatever happened to the ITM company that manufactured a
carbon fiber fork in the 90's?
There is presently an ITM company but it isn't the same one apparently.


I don't recall it but Italmanubri is now ITM:
http://www.itm.it

No forks shown.
The wiki people seem ambivalent:
http://deletionpedia.dbatley.com/w/i... _at_22:25%29

Then this June 2008 item:
http://www.bike-eu.com/news/2881/itm...quidation.html

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

ITM Carbon Fiber Fork?
 

Thanks for that information Al.

"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
Tom Kunich wrote:
Does anyone know whatever happened to the ITM company that manufactured a
carbon fiber fork in the 90's?
There is presently an ITM company but it isn't the same one apparently.


I don't recall it but Italmanubri is now ITM:
http://www.itm.it

No forks shown.
The wiki people seem ambivalent:
http://deletionpedia.dbatley.com/w/i... _at_22:25%29

Then this June 2008 item:
http://www.bike-eu.com/news/2881/itm...quidation.html

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

ITM Carbon Fiber Fork?
 

bfd wrote:

Bought a Nitto stem like this one instead:

http://store.citygrounds.com/store/p...I-5GX-Threadle...

A very good stem that is reasonably light, comes in silver, has 4-bolt
clamp design and comes with an adapter that fits both 1" and 1.25"
steerer tube. What's not to like?!

$86.

That was easy!

Chalo

ITM Carbon Fiber Fork?
 

On Jan 6, 2:29*am, Chalo wrote:
bfd wrote:

Bought a Nitto stem like this one instead:

http://store.citygrounds.com/store/p...I-5GX-Threadle...

A very good stem that is reasonably light, comes in silver, has 4-bolt
clamp design and comes with an adapter that fits both 1" and 1.25"
steerer tube. What's not to like?!

$86.

That was easy!

Chalo

You can buy a $20.00 stem just like the nitto from lots of
distributors. Kalloy, makes outstanding stems.

ITM Carbon Fiber Fork?
 

On 1/5/2011 11:51 PM, bfd wrote:
Bought a Nitto stem like this one instead:

http://store.citygrounds.com/store/p...m-26mm-Silver/

A very good stem that is reasonably light, comes in silver, has 4-bolt
clamp design and comes with an adapter that fits both 1" and 1.25"
steerer tube. What's not to like?!

The price -- a lot.

ITM Carbon Fiber Fork?
 

On Jan 6, 1:29*am, Chalo wrote:
bfd wrote:

Bought a Nitto stem like this one instead:

http://store.citygrounds.com/store/p...I-5GX-Threadle...

A very good stem that is reasonably light, comes in silver, has 4-bolt
clamp design and comes with an adapter that fits both 1" and 1.25"
steerer tube. What's not to like?!

$86.

That was easy!

Chalo

Yow, I didn't look at the price?! Agree, $86 is a lot for the stem.
I've seen it a bit cheaper at other sites ($59), but it still
expensive compared to some of the Chinese made stems.

For example, if you want a silver threadless stem, Velo Orange has
several nice looking ones for about $35:

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...nts/stems.html

Since they come in 25.4, 26 and the new standard 31.8mm, these look
like the true bargain. Good Luck!

ITM Carbon Fiber Fork?
 

DR wrote anonymously:

That doesn't look safe to me because it has no redundancy for the
1/4" or #10 screws that retain the stem on the steertube and th
bars on the stem. Â*Such joints on quill stems have been known to
break larger screws leaving a rider with a wobbly handlebar while a
single screw failure on the "Forge Ahead", guarantees NO BARS AT
ALL at any speed, and therefore no brakes.

Are you guessing or are you aware of failures resulting in the
problem you describe? Not some vaguely analogous failure, but actual
failures of face plate bolts on a removable faceplate. In use, not
while being tightened by an overzealous technician.

I've ridden no-hands uphill with my Cinelli quill stem loose in the
steertube as well as riding with the bars rotated with the "hooks"
hanging down from a clamp screw failure. Stem bolts break, but on the
ones with one screw failure, release the handlebars completely,
allowing them to fall into the front wheel. Therefore, old safety
standards cannot be applied.

Having used both 4-bolt and 2-bolt face-plates, I prefer the latter.
The 4-bolt plates seem to require a fiddly sequence of bolt
tightening in order to stay secured. Two-bolt on the other hand,
are tight when the bolts feel tight, and stay that way. YMMV.

Think beyond screwt tightening skills and what can occur in a two
screw clamp if one falls out broken. The two screw attachment is gone
as is any retention of the handle bar. Steertube clamping needs two
screws while handlebars, having gimbal-like motion, need four.

It is also not clear that failure of a single bolt on a 2-bolt plate
would result in anything more than wobbly bars (try loosening or
removing a single bolt on a 2 bolt faceplate and see what happens).

It's been done. Actually with three of four screws missing, is how it
was tried, actually on assembly, by default, by noting how free the
bars were until at least one PAIR of screws was in place.

There is no hold on the formerly clamped item (bars or steertube)
especially if the failure was from a peak load.

But whether "wobbly" or just loose, a bar that is free to rotate
offers the undesirable potential for loss of control. To speculate
(based upon a past experience), take a road rider, on the hoods with
some weight on the hands, hitting a bump. Because of the support
point being so far (radially) from the clamp point (rotational
axis), the bars can rotate and the rider can lose grip of the hoods
as they rotate and drop out from under the rider's hands. Oops.
Look Ma, no hands!

Its worse than that: "Look ma, no bars, they're in my front wheel
spokes."
--
Jobst Brandt

ITM Carbon Fiber Fork?
 

On Jan 6, 4:09*pm, wrote:
DR wrote anonymously:

Well thank for at least acknowledging the identity I use here. That's
a pseudonym not an "anonym."

I've ridden no-hands uphill with my Cinelli quill stem loose in the
steertube as well as riding with the bars rotated with the "hooks"
hanging down from a clamp screw failure. *Stem bolts break, but on the
ones with one screw failure, release the handlebars completely,
allowing them to fall into the front wheel. *Therefore, old safety
standards cannot be applied.

I think you would find this is not true.

Having used both 4-bolt and 2-bolt face-plates, I prefer the latter.
The 4-bolt plates seem to require a fiddly sequence of bolt
tightening in order to stay secured. *Two-bolt on the other hand,
are tight when the bolts feel tight, and stay that way. *YMMV.

Think beyond screwt tightening skills and what can occur in a two
screw clamp if one falls out broken. *The two screw attachment is gone
as is any retention of the handle bar. *

No. That's my point.
Remove one screw from a 2 bolt clamp. The bars are loose but do not
"fall" nor is ALL retention gone. Wobbly, yes. Free, no.

Steertube clamping needs two
screws while handlebars,

Well that's one opinion, and is what most have. Note that old quill
stems grip the bars with a fully formed single piece clamp that
surrounds the bars. The threadless steerer clamp is the same sort of
"full surround" clamp. A single bolt is sufficient, the primary issue
being to secure the stem against twisting around the steerer. The
twisting forces are quite small.

having gimbal-like motion, need four.

It is also not clear that failure of a single bolt on a 2-bolt plate
would result in anything more than wobbly bars (try loosening or
removing a single bolt on a 2 bolt faceplate and see what happens).

It's been done. *Actually with three of four screws missing, is how it
was tried, actually on assembly, by default, by noting how free the
bars were until at least one PAIR of screws was in place.


There is no hold on the formerly clamped item (bars or steertube)
especially if the failure was from a peak load.

An appropriate design would not cause ALL loading forces to be borne
by the bolt. Indeed most threadless setups fell secure against rocking
forces (envision alternating pulls on the bars during aggressive
sprinting) even with NO steer tube bolts secured. But the stem WILL
rotate easily on the steerer.

But whether "wobbly" or just loose, a bar that is free to rotate
offers the undesirable potential for loss of control. *To speculate
(based upon a past experience), take a road rider, on the hoods with
some weight on the hands, hitting a bump. *Because of the support
point being so far (radially) from the clamp point (rotational
axis), the bars can rotate and the rider can lose grip of the hoods
as they rotate and drop out from under the rider's hands. *Oops.
Look Ma, no hands!

Its worse than that: "Look ma, no bars, they're in my front wheel
spokes."

You missed my point entirely. A sudden downward rotation of the bars,
regardless of how they were originally secured and even if they have
not "separated" from the stem, can "dump" the rider's hands off the
hoods. Under such circumstances the rider (if balanced by carrying
weight on the hands) is not likely to stay on the bike long enough to
even be concerned about whether the bars have engaged the front
wheel.

I mentioned this because I find bar loosening to be of concern and
more of an issue with 4 bolt clamps than 2 bolt clamps. As I said,
YMMV.

DR