On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 6:03:53 PM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 8 Sep 2020 15:47:16 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 3:51:11 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote:
On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote:
I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are

DT Swiss 411 or the 460
H and Son Archetype if I can find them
Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23
HED
Kinlin

Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside?

Deacon Mark

I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg
rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that
performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes).

Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and
supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks.

Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its
demise).

Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23
or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke.

PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet.
I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not
(i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine
with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either.

Same for the A23.

Mark J.
Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with?

Deacon Mark

Yes they do. And American made.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
While I am at it the wheel I want to replace is Kinlin xc 279. They have about 10k miles on them and the rear wheel has a hop now. I de-tensioned the spokes. I manage to get the wheel centered and laterally pretty true certainly within in .5 mm. The tension on the drive side is pretty consistent on Park tool at all 23-25. The non-drive side is a bit more out in place going farther and 20% off in places. The problem is the hop is back in the wheel. To correct it my guess is now way to really do this the rim is just not able. Seems to me that radial truing is the hardest and if off too much compared to the rest I should get new rim? Correct? The bike actually rides fine with it I just don't like the hop I can feel it riding.

Deacon Mark
You say that the wheel is "laterally pretty true" but has a "hop". It
sounds like it is not radially true???
--

Cheers,

John B.
I had a pretty good feeling we are going to have to give up Andrew. This one I can do you hit the spot.

Deacon Mark