View Single Post
  #304  
Old November 4th 17, 06:55 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Why do some forks and frames have brake rotor size limits?

On 2017-11-04 09:51, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, November 4, 2017 at 8:00:38 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-03 17:47, John B. wrote:


[...]

Somehow, I don't think that you are correct.


So you honestly think that a bike where the levers bottom out while
the wheels are still not locked up is "safe to go"?

If that's true I am glad you are no longer maintaining aircraft. I
have a very different philosophy about safety.


Aside from ABS, I agree -- and as a matter of fact, getting my new
and awesome Trek up and running, the rear caliper brake (direct
mount) bottomed out at the lever without locking up the wheel. WTF?
That's no good. It's a complex brake, but the problem was simple --
the last run of the cable housing was about a half-inch too short. I
dropped in a new section, did some minor adjustment and voila -- I'm
skidding down the road, which actually isn't too difficult because
the pavement is wet.


It should also be lockable with a guy 50lbs heavier than you, wearing a
large backpack and planted fully on the seat.


It's odd being on rim brakes after being on discs exclusively for the
last four months, since my SuperSix bit the dust. I haven't ridden
the bike much because its been raining, and I just got it, but I do
worry about braking a spoke with the pads running so close to the
rim.



How can the pads get into the spokes? That could cause a major OTB crash.


Cables are simple, though. I don't look forward to bleeding the
hydraulics -- something I haven't done yet.


It's not that bad. Even on my MTB (lots of shaking, laying it down, et
cetera) with about 2k miles/year it didn't have to be done more than
once a year for the rear and every other year for the front. I can't get
the proper bleed nipples for my Promax Decipher calipers, they need
long-neck M5 thread.

So I just "burp" them. I set the respective lever level, open the
reservoir lid and affix toilet paper all around with a rubber band. Then
I squish them carefully lots of times until no more bubbles show up and
the pressure point feels nice and firm. Carefylly because I don't want
to spritz DOT4 on the garage floor. Good to wear old clothes when doing
that. One trick to top up the reservoir is to use a straw and a finger
on top for siphon. Of course, all this only works if your brake levers
have a reservoir where a more or less flat lid can be removed.

The rear never feels totally firm probably because of the long hose.
However, I can always lock it up before the lever gets uncomfortably
close to the handlebar. It's just that I like a nice hard pressure point.

I'd have nipples made but the calipers seem to be nearing EOL. They
begin to show sluggish retraction until warmed up by several miles of
hilly trail riding. Thinking about the Shimano M675 once they go but
only if Hangzhou Novich makes ceramic-based pads for these. I don't want
the stock resin pads.

I just got the 8" rotor size extenders for the caliper mounts, way ahead
of the arrival the estimated. $2.86 a pop including fast air shipping
from China. Could not believe it. I looked up and down and it seems you
can't even buy those adapters in the US.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Ads
 

Home - Home - Home - Home - Home