On 2018-06-08 17:52, sms wrote:
On 6/8/2018 7:36 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-06-07 17:02, sms wrote:
On 6/6/2018 7:35 AM, Joerg wrote:

snip

I clean my chain thoroughly using interdental toothbrushes. My wive
found a brand at Costco that is more rigid than the usual ones so the
job goes faster now. First used for my teeth, then later some day for
a chain. Afterwards scrubbing with an old regular toothbrush, followed
by a good wipe-down with Kleenex. Once the chain is really shiny I
apply White Lightning Epic Ride. If you shake the bottle well the waxy
stuff in it dissolves and thus gets onto the chain as well. I use a
Q-Tip to dab it onlto the links, then gently wipe off any excess with
a Kleenex.

That way a road bike chain can run 150-250mi between cleanings
depending on whether I ride more roads or more bike paths. Gets
dirtier on roads. 40-50mi on the MTB, mostly on dirt trails. The
upside is that this method does not require me to take the chain off
the bike which I would really dread.

OMG, is anyone really spending that much time on chain maintenance?!

Get yourself a Park chain cleaner (or some other brand).
Fill it with kerosene and run the chain through it. Repeat with clean
solvent until the chain runs clean.

Unless the chain is in the solvent, and moving, you won't get it clean
on the inside.

When it's clean, lubricate it with a foaming chain lube.


So how long does that process take? And I mean with clean-up including
the cleaning of the tools used. For most of those of us who are
married clean-up is necessary, we can just leave the stuff sitting on
some bench.

About five minutes to set it up, five minutes per chain, five minutes
clean-up. I'll do multiple bikes. It's all about doing it so you don't
get solvent everywhere. I have one of those big rectangular metal drip
trays to catch any solvent that gets splashed out.


But then you also have to clean the drip tray. I guess yesterday's
newspaper would also do.


Definitely I have found all the things that the experts say about chain
cleaning to be accurate.

As Sheldon Brown writes, "The on-the-bike system has the advantage that
the cleaning machine flexes the links and spins the rollers. This
scrubbing action may do a better job of cleaning the innards."


The flexing makes sense. Maybe I should try that. The guy I rode with
yesterday mentioned a Park Tool bath he uses.


When wax was popular, we'd get customers coming in all the time
complaining about shifting problems on their bikes. Removed the wax and
lubed with conventional stuff and voila, shifting back to normal." Mike
Jacoubowsky, co-owner of Chain Reaction Bicycles.

"Wax is not mobile and cannot return to a location from which it has
been removed by rotation of one part on another." Jobst Brandt, author
of The Bicycle Wheel


Jobst was a good expert. Except on water intake, I believe.


"If you use dry lube or wax, follow product directions and use it often.
In some cases, dry lube should be used for every ride. It wears off very
quickly and no new lube can flow to the critical wear areas." Craig
Metalcraft, manufacturer of Super Link III.

"Downsides of the wax approach include the fact that it is a great deal
of trouble, and that wax is probably not as good a lubricant as oil or
grease." Sheldon Brown


Wax isn't a good lubricant but most good wax oils like mine are a mix of
synthetic oil and wax. Has to be mixed up before each application by
vigorously shaking the bottle.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/