On Monday, March 6, 2017 at 10:52:04 PM UTC-5, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, March 6, 2017 at 12:41:56 PM UTC-8, Duane wrote:
On 06/03/2017 3:19 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Hello again everyone!

Now I've moved on from the Swedish and
Norwegian standard bikes of the 70s into the
most recent of bike technology, namely the
mountain-bike or "MTB"!

I read on the cassette that you should pull it
40 nm. There is even an arrow pointing the way.
It is the well-known way, but OK.

I know there is a tool for this - torque
wrench, right?

I don't have one, but I do have the everyday
half-inch ratchet, and the special socket with
all the teeth (?) -
of 40 nm, I know only this is a lot and the
reason I know this is every time I remove it, it
is stuck like, very firmly!

When I pull, I hear a crash sound three or
four times. This seems to be normal.

I asked the local guru who did bikes since the
80s. He also claimed he was a master after only
two years. Anyway he suggested it was sand!
But I'm not that stupid I don't make the parts
rudimentary clean before I operate them. So it
is not sand. Besides the sound is much to big
to be sand.

Anyway what do you guys make of all this?


Get a torque wrench and tighten it to 40nm.

I have a couple of torque wrenches, but my cassette took does not have a socket wrench fitting -- so I use a adjustable wrench. Go ahead and hate on me, but I just give the lock ring a good yank. With the serrations, loosening is unlikely. But now I feel bad and will go out and find a tool with a socket wrench fitting.

-- Jay Beattie

I've tightened many a cassette lockring by use of a large adjustable wrench.. I just push on the wrench until the lockring stops clicking. I've NEVER had a cassette lockring come loose even those ones I've put on over a cassette with the last cog having no serrations. I just snug up the lockring on those until it feels tight. All of those cassettes were ridden for many rides of 100 kms or more.

Cheers