On 14 Mar, 01:06, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
Trevor Jeffrey wrote:

So now we know. *From the evidence of the book, he did not test
any Tied and soldered wheels.

The wheels that Jobst tested were tied and soldered by Rik
Hjertberg of WheelSmith when his shop was in Palo Alto.

It does not say this in the book, how do you know this?

I've described the sequence of event often in years past here on
wreck.bike. *It isn't a secret. *Besides, I have no skill or wire for
tied and soldered wheels and I wanted an impartial expert to do the
job.

If you know this to be tru, perhaps you could enlighten me, to what
standard were the wheels constructed.

To the tension and trueness that Wheelsmith built them, using my
tensiometer as a guide.

*http://gallery.roadbikereview.com/sh...122&cat=500&si...

That's Rik's hand in the picture.

er. jobst, that's not the wheel you tested for your book. *and your
tensiometer doesn't account for spoke stiffness - kind of a problem
dontcherknow.



The way you question this seems to assume nothing is true but is
generated from contributors imagination. *I sense that this may be
true for some writers in this newsgroup.

so why would we accept as "true" the writings of a guy that can't follow
scientific method, doesn't educate himself sufficiently for his proposed
expertise, and presents presumption and underinformed guesswork as fact?
* oh, and who cites non-contemporaneous material as evidence???

It seems that this Rick at Wheelsmith does not double tie his spokes
and does not use steel wire but 28 gauge copper wire as I had
assumed. He does not shape the spokes at the crossings and only uses
a short contact time with an 80 watt electric iron, so it is unlikely
that any accidental shaping could take place. So it would be more
than likely that there would be little if any advantage to this method
of tying the spokes. There is also no method of testing the joint. I
don't know the composition of 'Sta-brite' silver solder so am unable
to asses its suitability, a 60/40 tin/lead is the usual 'strong'
solder. The information on his soldering methods can be found at
wheelfanatyk .

Rik's work may look pretty, but it wont do the job.
The correct way is: Steel wire, tightly bound + 60/40 lead/tin solder
at two crossings with the removal of spoke bows by kinking at the
crossing(s). Then re-balance tension in spokes.

TJ