Thread: Chain waxing
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Old June 11th 18, 03:35 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
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Default Chain waxing

On 2018-06-10 11:03, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 10, 2018 at 9:49:56 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-06-10 08:01, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 10, 2018 at 7:36:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-06-09 16:22, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 8:04:24 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-06-08 10:06, jbeattie wrote:

[...]

... She was up at like 2:00 AM this morning going through
all my buckets in the garage . . . totally ****ed off at
the condition of some of my bike cleaning brushes. So I
asked her about the dust under the refrigerator . . .
"have you seen that . . . have you? How could any
self-respecting wife allow that disgusting accumulation?
And your hair in the drain! It's like stringy snot! I
want a divorce!"


When making bacon and eggs this morning I mentioned a li'l
grease spot on the range from yesterday. When I came home
late from a fun MTB ride and she still made a very nice
dinner. That didn't go over very well :-)

Most women are neat freaks while most men would become
real slobs if they weren't married to them.


Have you seen Lou's garage? You could do surgery on the
floor without fear of infection.


Is this the guy who ride a bike with only a front brake?


My wife has been very patient with the mess I made in the
family room downstairs. I've been watching movies and doing
heavy bike maintenance for the fleet which doubled when my
son moved in after his injury.


I'd be hearing about that every day. Though she has accepted
that I ride on dirt trails a lot and that there is a fair
amount of "trail debris" under the MTB in the garage. As long
as none of it moves on its own.


I just got back from Universal where I bought a liter of
Shimano mineral oil for the hydraulic brakes. It was $4 more
than buying 50ml from Bike Gallery. Incroyable -- $17.99 for
50ml. Even from Western, it's $12.75 for 50ml. You can get
1,000ml for anywhere from $18-22 low street price. I didn't
even bother price matching at Universal and paid $22. I'll
never use all that mineral oil, but I couldn't bear spending
so much for 50ml. Maybe I'll sell the left overs on the disk
brake black market.


Sounds like the rip-off with brake pads. The LBS wants $16 for
a pair of cheap resin pads while I buy nice ceramic-based ones
for around $2/pair from China, in bulk. Well, as long as there
is no brake pad tariff. The pads at the LBS are most likely
also made in China, if not at the same factory.

An oil change on a Rohloff hub would cost you about the same as
an oil change on a car:

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/ro...-8410/?geoc=US





There must be huge profit margins on this stuff and of course they all
try to make you captive by requiring to buy at the company
store or the warranty is toast.


By the way, I tried to buy $9 worth of hydraulic mineral oil
made by Finish Line, and the guys at Bike Gallery (who I
really like and have been good to me), basically swatted my
hand away, saying that Shimano was the only way to go. I
think either (1) Shimano has everyone cowed, or (2) Finish
Line needs better PR. I think Shimano actually claims that
the warranty on the hydraulic discs is voided if you use
non-Shimano magical oil.


I wonder if they'd do a full forensic investigation with each
$100 warranty claim to find out which oil was used, who sold
it, whether some sort of embargo was breached and whether the
goons need to be sent out.

My brakes are simple, they use DOT3 or DOT4 like the ones in
our cars do. The quantity needs costs pennies.

Shimano made the decision to go with mineral oil for the road
discs, which was a legitimate choice, and considering the fill
volumes, it saves a lot of waste DOT fluid that absorbs water and
has to be tossed. DOT fluid is nasty on paint, etc. I can be
sloppy with mineral oil -- use it for massage, laxative, etc.,
etc. It's multipurpose.


DOT has much better performance when things get hot. Which they do
on an MTB. Water boils off if you let it. So far I didn't have to
change my fluid, just top off a wee bit. It is aggressive towards
paint but not that aggressive. Paint is the last thing I'd worry
about on my bikes.

When doing fluid jobs on the brakes one has to be careful. I never
spilled a drop. That's one of the jobs syringes where invented
for.


Actually, Shimano mineral oil has a higher boiling point than any DOT
fluid, and it never changes boiling point.
https://bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tec...-disc-updated/

Scroll to the bottom. It's expensive, but it doesn't go bad -- so
that's a plus. I hate having cans or bags of stuff that you have to
throw away because they absorb water, like plaster and setting joint
compounds, cement, etc.


Quote (from your link): "An important point about the hygroscopic nature
of DOT Fluid is that by absorbing the water into the fluid it is
preventing pockets of water from forming that remain separate from the
fluid in the system. Water is heavier and settles to the lowest point
in the system, such as the caliper. This means that while the boiling
point of the mineral oil remains high, the boiling point of the system
is now that of water, only 100C/212F".

That where the problem is. The caliper is where things get hot.


I use a syringe, but I do get drips and drabs from the fill port or
the lever port. Not much. You just wipe it off.


Water in DOT boils out. That's what happens in the open systems on motor
vehicles. Unfortunately bikes don't have those but if you were truly
concerned about having to recycle that miniscule quantity you could just
boil it off.

Anyhow, I would not mind a Shimano brake system because I don't ride
that hard (anymore). However, having seen a guy in front of me lose his
front brake on a long downhill was a sobering lesson.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
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