Wolfgang Strobl wrote:
Am Thu, 22 Apr 2021 14:26:47 -0700 (PDT) schrieb Sir Ridesalot
:

On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:34:46 a.m. UTC-4, Wolfgang Strobl wrote:

Well, I used clips initially on the Peugeot, but without the strap,
sometimes called "Ladyhaken" (lady clips) around here,
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_pedal#Quill
then bought Shimano M232 in 1995 and PD-M525 in '96.


I changed the brake calipers on my winter bike from
cantilever to V-brakes (also changed the brake levers)
because I found a HUGE difference when trying to stop in wet
snow and/or slush. The V-brakes would stop almost instantly
where the cantilever brakes would maybe slow the bike down a
bit at first. Those cantilever brakes were properly set up
too.

I switched from hydraulic cantilever brakes (Magura) to a cheap V-brake
on the bicycle used during winter for my commute, starting in '96, after
the Magura got stuck now and then on one side. Didn't have any problems
afterwards. Disc brakes may that good now, but they certainly weren't
then, so this wasn't an option.


I think another big advantage with disc brakes besides
their stopping power when wet or snow, is that the wheel
does not have to be perfectly true in order to prevent brake
rub. I think that's a big part of why they're so popular on
MTBs.

Perhaps. But I don't own or ride a MTB, I don't even ride on anything
that isn't paved with asphalt. On the other hand, I heared people
taling about having damaged their disks on long descents. A disk has
less heat capacity compared to a rim. Actually, disc brakes allow much
less clearance between disc and pads than rim brake - that's the very
reason for those differences, a larger ratio. So a slightly deformed
disc is already unuseable, because it gets stuck, where a rim is not.

There was a few articles all click bate stuff when road disks first came
out, when folks had did this. You certainly can cook rotors and pads but
generally requires dragging brakes, which will also cook rim brakes, are in
those early days 140mm rotors where common which probably didn’t help.

In short is technically possible but you do really have to try. On road the
loads are much less than off road, coming off the mountain nr my folks take
the road down to the village, it’s few miles at 8% switch backs etc, on
both my old MTB and the gravel bike rotors hadn’t heated up, that I could
tell, nor coming off Mt Teide 20+ miles.

But coming off the same hill down to the valley floor down one of the steep
tram, only a mile or so but 20% first section ramping up on the last bit.
That heats up rotors a treat as it’s multiple short sharp braking, as you
weave past rocks that have fallen etc, if it’s wet can hear sizzling as
water is boiled off the rotors. Still well within the brakes tolerances but
they are certainly hot!

I certainly watch the disc brake space, but IMHO there is much hype,
partially from users and about use cases different from mine. So I
remain slightly sceptical.

Roger Merriman