On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 02:40:16 GMT, wrote:

Jim Adney writes:

is there some way to treat the inside of the tubing to prevent or
slow down the rusting? I heard on this group of a spray that you
fill up the insides with. The frame is steel.

I like LPS-3. You don't fill the frame with it. Just let it coat
everything. Destruction of a frame by rust is extremely rare, but
it does occasionally happen.

To test the value of this advice, I suggest you take a clean piece of
steel, for instance a tinned can with the tin steel wooled off, an
spray some LPS-3 or WD-40 on it before laying it out in the morning
dew for a few days.

These lubricants do not displace water but rather emulsify with it.
The inside of a frame, as I mentioned, is not at hazard from moisture
unless you work at it.

WD-40 as Gore-tex are religious icons without merit. They live
entirely on faith. Let's tie and solder spokes again as the ancients
did religiously... without merit. Also beware, smooth tread bicycle
tires will aquaplane and cause crashes on wet roads... and many more.

Ya know WD-40 is the worst thing on earth - except for having your ferrous stuff
rusted and wet and unoiled. I am not a fan of the stuff I use it rarely and on
few things, but it does what it does.

I'll spray damn near everything on my bike with it when I come in from a
thunderstorm. This happens a LOT to me lately. Yes it would be best to wash and
towel dry. Yeah, like that's going to happen every time all the time. I don't
know about your steel wooled tin can, which sounds like a worst case corrosion
test, but I know I've got a cleaner, less rusted drivetrain with a post-drench
WD-40ing than without. I know it is then a lot easier to clean and lube all that
stuff properly when I get a chance.

No, I don't recommend the stuff as a regular lubricant or for potentiometers or
other electronic contacts, but it has it's place. There are other aerosol
packaged products that may work as well or better. LPS is very good. But those
two are handy and work.

Ron
I also own vice-grips