Frank Krygowski wrote:
:On 12/19/2017 1:05 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
: Frank Krygowski wrote:
:
: If you're starting from a stop by applying
: extra torque to the cranks (as is usual) you
: would get extra wear at that moment. But it's
: only for a moment. I suspect it has little
: overall effect.
:
: OK, so when and why does wear occur?

:Chain wear happens inside the chain's pivots. The wear is on the pins,
:the rollers and any surface between them.

:The wear happens when the pivot is under tension and the two links
:connected by that pivot are either bending or straightening.

: And how long should you be able to go before
: the slack exposes you a fraud mechanic and/or
: the owner of crooked gear?

:For derailleur bikes, many people recommend replacing a chain when it's
:worn (or "stretched") so it's one half percent longer than when new.
This is most easily measured with a ruler marked in inches. Do you have
ne of those?) But for a bike with only one rear cog, I think can go
:much longer.

:I'd say if the chain on a single speed or hub gear bike doesn't skip
:when you pedal your hardest, it's probably OK. We'll see if others disagree.

The issue with going too much longer is that you wear the crank teeth
and rear cog teeth. They cost more, and are harder to change, than a
chain. Single speed and IGH bikes can use a wide chain, which will
lost a long time (particularly if fitted with a good chain guard/case.

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sig 22