On Wednesday, April 8, 2015 at 5:49:36 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote:
On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote:
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat
clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another
one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper
brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws
with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the
bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers.
4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other
saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable
bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura
brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember
now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6,
M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had
occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be
reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your
bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten
anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or
headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the
road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a
mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and
ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can
fix on the road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a
chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to
add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a
few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a
cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another
cheap quick link, that is for sure.


I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have
often seen the
wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed
a recipe for
trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while
they look
similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences
matter greatly
here.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/


http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349


Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain.

Yep, that's clearly a failure.
We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and
quality seem to match.

There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by
the way.

I'm no engineer, but based on my experience talking with engineers and looking at broken stuff in the context of lawsuits, it looks like a slow-moving fatigue failure.

I use whatever snap-link comes with the chain, and if I buy a Shimano chain, I use a KMC 10sp snap-link. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...3&category=276 -- assuming I don't want to deal with the disposable Shimano pins.

-- Jay Beattie.