On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 3:40:30 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-10-30 15:10, Doug Landau wrote:
On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 2:16:43 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-10-30 14:04, Doug Landau wrote:
On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 1:58:51 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-10-30 13:17, Doug Landau wrote:
On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 9:39:55 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
On 2017-10-29 12:57, wrote:
On Sunday, October 29, 2017 at 10:02:12 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
On 2017-10-29 09:45, wrote:
On Saturday, October 28, 2017 at 8:09:18 AM UTC-7,
Joerg wrote:

And grandpa has driven his cars without safety
belts yet survived ...

For people who do not shy away from unpaved roads
or use a lot of singletrack and ride in the rain
there is a much more extreme issue: Wet mud.

There is NO brake the is proof against wet mud. In
fact it is perhaps worse on a disk since the
additional pressure of the pads can turn the silicon
present in most muds into cutting instruments that on
rim brakes cuts into the rubber show rather than the
hard and thin disk pad.


Actually, no. I've had mud literally dripping from the
calipers which had become barely recognizable brownish
blobs. The only thing that happens is that they make an
awful grinding noise just like muddy rim brakes do.
With the two major differences that they still come on
full force immediately and that this grinding does not
eat up aluminum. Aluminum as one of the braking
surfaces plain does not make any sense, certainly not
in a muddy environment.

A downside of bicycle disc brakes is that in contrast
to most motor vehicles the rotors have "vent holes" and
weight weenie spiders. This results in rather fast
heat-up and in "brake mousse" when you plow through
thick vegetation on an overgrown trail. Mashed
star-thistle and other weeds get shredded and a sort of
pulp develops which cakes up in the holes of the rotor.
It doesn't diminish the brake force but lets of a bad
stench. One of the reasons why I carry a Swiss Army
knife in a pocket. Not in a pannier, so I can whip it
out in seconds. This also helps in poking out the giant
mud clump that forms behind the BB and can prevent the
rear wheel from turning.

Joerg - that additional noise is wear.


Sure. However, the rotors last thousands of miles, cost
around $20 and take only minutes to change. The pads cost
$2/pair for ceramic-based material (like motorcycles have)
and last around 1000mi depending on turf and weather. That
is way more hassle than with a motor vehicle but way less
hassle than swapping out a shot rim.

I started riding again in fall 2013, using an older model
MTB with almost zero miles on it. By the end of 2013 it had
around 1000mi on it and the front rim looks horrible.

The problem in our area is this: Mud contains granules of
decomposed granite. Rubber pads need water diverter grooves
and the granules lodge in these grooves. They also pierce
the rubber itself and lodge in there. When pulling the
lever that lets of a horrid grinding noise. Coming down a
hill you have to keep the brake engaged and you can
literally hear the rim being tortured all the way to the
bottom of the hill. On flat surfaces you have to stop and
pry out the granules. On a rainy day that means stopping
every few miles. I stand by my opinion that rim brakes are
inadequate for any serious MTB riding.

That is the reason to use Kool-stop Salmons. The compound
will not let granules lodge.


So then why does it on my road bike? I use Koolstop up front,
black and salmon. Gravel flakes embed in both when I travel
gravel roads or unpaved sections during soggy weather. Plus
they have grooves which is where they mostly embed:

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/brk14.jpg

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Take a pic next time until then we don't believe it


We? Are you now spokesman for the whole NG? Was there a party
convention with flags and brass band that I missed?

Yes. The election that decided this NG's creation.


Ah, a Chinese style coronation :-)


... Now quit yer
whining and take the goddam pic.


Can you tell me how when the weather is bone dry for months?


... This will be of interest to many
here. The salmon koolstops and their resistance to embedding rocks
are part of the lore of this group, and salmons are popular out of
proportion here.


Maybe there are versions with li'l gremlins in the grooves that shovel
all the dirt out that gets in. Mine don't have those gremlins.


... Now quit complaining about a little effort to do
your part, and show us pics of granules embedded in your salmon.


See above. And it better rain hard soon because my black/salmon
Koolstops are very close to worn down and I certainly will not replace
them with new Koolstops. They wanted $17/pair for the MTB version last
time I looked. Not going to happen. IME Clarks work just as well, last
as long and cost only $4/pair.

In terms of grinding after mud exposure I found there was hardly any
difference between Koolstops and Clarks.

My Campy brake pads appear to be perfectly smooth. Do they need grooves to work properly?