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Old July 23rd 05, 06:11 AM
NYC XYZ
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Default How Do These Airborne Specs Look?


Hank Wirtz wrote:


You're paying attention to a 4-oz difference in weight, then
contemplating putting on a 4-lb saddle? (FWIW, my sister-in-law has that
saddle, and I guess she likes it, but it weighs more than her rear
wheel).


Holy Hell's Angels, that weighs more than my ass! Thanks for the
info...hmm...wonder if there are any ergonomic seats that are very
light?

Low weight does not equal performance, except maybe psychologically. If
you want to shave grams, pee before you ride. That's about the
difference we're talking here. Performance is going to come from having
a good-fitting bike that you ride a whole bunch.


LOL -- of course!

But the fit being equal, how do the specs read to you? I don't know
why they bother with Shimano this and Bontrager that...do even the
"pros" know what it means?? Reads like mattress advertising....

I'm a fast rider...I can keep up with my messenger friend who races on
the weekends (though we've never actually raced per se, given our very
different bikes). I say this so that you know I'm not stuck on
components like they were magic or something. In this particular case,
my natural inclination is to get the flat-bar bike, but it seems like
the componentry on the drop-bar may be substantially better.

Like I say, fit is really the most important thing, and if you say you
want comfort and performance, you are not likely to get either from a
bike you can't test-ride first. Get yourself into a LBS and have them
find you something that is just right for you. They can swap out stems
and handlebars and seats (for a small upcharge usually, sometimes
they'll do even trades) and get it dialled in. Mail-order shops can't do
that for you.


Only problem is that these particular bikes sound like real sweet deals
and aren't available except online from the manufacturer.

What's the big deal with the "fit," though? An 18" frame is an
18"...and the seat posts adjust, etc. I really wanted to know what the
components of the drop-bar are like compared to those of the flat-bar.

As far as caliper brakes...why not? These aren't mountain bikes. They're
light enough and strong enough for 100% of the TDF field, and those guys
descend at 50 mph. The _only_ reason they don't use them on dirt bikes
is for tire clearance.


I thought the V-brakes stop better? I went from cantilever brakes on a
chromoly to the old Trek 7500 (the old one, not the current one -- why
did they change the frame geometry? It seems like everyone's hybrid
line has got the angled top tube now) with aluminum and V-brakes...cool
stuff.

Sorry if you're getting dogpiled here, but you really should do some
test rides of both flat- and drop-bar bikes before you try to make your
decision based on Ti vs. Al or 18.2 vs. 18.6.


I'm sure I won't like drop-bars since I think the typical flat-bar
forces me to hunch over as it is! I always raise the headset (correct
term?) myself...upright means comfort!

To answer your overall question, I'd go for the drop-bar bike, but
that's because I like drop bars, not because of its componentry or frame
material.


I suppose I could always raise the drop-bars too?

When hunched over, my back really becomes the rear suspension!

Good luck!


Many thanks!

What's it mean that the Airborne Thunderbolt comes in 10-speed (is that
right, only ten speeds????) "double" or 10-speed "triple"????

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