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Old January 10th 17, 08:31 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Benderthe.evilrobot
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Posts: 128
Default Need advice on bottom bracket repair


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On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 1:46:39 PM UTC-8, Benderthe.evilrobot wrote:
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On Monday, January 9, 2017 at 10:47:48 AM UTC-8, Benderthe.evilrobot
wrote:
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On Sunday, January 8, 2017 at 2:11:45 PM UTC-8, Benderthe.evilrobot
wrote:
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On Sunday, January 8, 2017 at 2:02:27 PM UTC-8,
Benderthe.evilrobot
wrote:
wrote in message
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On Sunday, January 8, 2017 at 1:14:21 PM UTC-8,
Benderthe.evilrobot
wrote:
"Theodore Heise" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 11:08:20 -0600,
AMuzi wrote:
On 1/7/2017 8:33 PM, Theodore Heise wrote:
Hi all,

I have an early 1990s Rodriguez tandem with a rear
bottom
bracket in serious need of overhaul. The cranks flop
severely.

I've pulled the cranks and the lock ring on the left
side,
but
the adjustable cup won't come out. It turns about a
quarter
turn, but then gets too stiff to turn further. It has
no
flats for a wrench instead having holes for turning with
a
pin
spanner--so I'm unable to put a lot of force on it.

I've soaked it with WD40, but still no joy. Any advice
for
me?

Delco 10.4020 penetrant is the best, PC Blaster is good.
Warming with a heat gun can help.

If no other path, flats can be cut on the cup with a disc
grinder to allow a wrench instead of those brittle
expensive
pins.

p.s. Try the right side cup too. If that moves, you can
easily
deal with the left one after disasssembly.

Thanks for the added tips. Off to get penetrating oil and
new
pins now. Grinding on it is beyond my abilities, so if I'm
not
able to get things off with the addition of penetrating oil
and
time, I'll be hauling it off to my LBS.

At that stage; I'd turn it as far as the tight spot and give
it
a
few
strikes with a hammer. sometimes you can ease it out bit at a
time
that
way.

Once I had to shift a seized in pedal shaft, after snapping a
couple
of
spanners - I welded on the biggest nut I had a spanner for.
Quenching
the
hot steel with penetrating oil did slightly more than just
spraying
it
on
cold. The same approach would probably work with a BB cup.

It is extremely bad practice to hammer a pin spanner.

Who said anything about hammering a pin spanner?!!!

If you can't be bothered reading a post - don't bother answering
it
either.

I might suggest "At that stage; I'd turn it as far as the tight
spot
and
give it a few strikes with a hammer. sometimes you can ease it
out
bit
at
a time that way." sounds an awful lot like hammering on a pin
spanner.
Are
you supposing we're discussing removing pedals from a crank?

Sorry - I forgot you were that thick.

I'll draw pictures next time.

So you meant something other than what you wrote. Well that makes
sense.

Its so simple it just never occurred to me that anyone could **** it
up -
but somehow you always seem to manage.

Then perhaps you can explain how you didn't say to hit it with a hammer
after writing for everyone to see you suggest hitting the pin spanner
with
a hammer? Did you mean that unless you vocalize it, that it doesn't
count?


I didn't say hit the pin spanner with a hammer - you did.


Then exactly how is it that you can't explain your posting: "At that
stage; I'd turn it as far as the tight spot and give it a few strikes with
a hammer. sometimes you can ease it out bit at a time that way." Are you
suggesting he was turning it out with his fingers?


Now there's an idea - why didn't I think of that.

Striking the cup a few times often re-forms a damaged thread good enough
that you can turn it with your fingers.

I made the mistake of not assuming you're completely brain dead.

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