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Old May 19th 21, 01:43 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
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Default Weights of my bikes

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space.. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.

The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system. From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.


A dryer is single phase 220.

-- Jay Beattie.
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