Op woensdag 19 mei 2021 om 02:26:38 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 11:15:28 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket.
My mistake. You're correct. The capacitor is an EMI/RFI suppression
capacitor to reduce conducted electric motor noise in the AC wiring. I
couldn't tell from the original photo what the remains of the
capacitor were used for. I also failed to notice the real motor start
capacitor in the lower right of your original photo:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Let's say that I was distracted by the clean workbench and high end
bicycles.
My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.
I wish I had a better theory. The problem is finding an explanation
for both the shorted capacitor and the melted heater element. The
heater is after the capacitor in the circuit. Therefore a shorted
capacitor would not cause the heater to melt. Most likely, a shorted
capacitor would blow a fuse or thermal breaker, leaving the heater
untouched. Similarly, either an open or shorted heater element would
not cause the capacitor to fail. The only explanation I can contrive
is that the heater and the capacitor failed because of unrelated and
unconnected faults.

My guess(tm) is the heater element failed because whatever electronics
control its temperature did something wrong. I have no idea what that
might be without a schematic.

My guess(tm) is the EMI/RFI capacitor failed because of a power line
high voltage spike or dielectric breakdown due to overheating. If the
capacitor is fairly close to the failed heating elements, that might
be a connection. What worries me is that replacing both the capacitor
and heater element might not be the cause of their failure, and that
the original cause for having both the capacitor and heater element
fail, is still lurking in the dryer. If you have a multimeter, and
with the dryer unplugged, you might want to check for a short across
the 240VAC line. (That's easier than tripping the circuit breaker).

I was unable to find a service manual, wiring diagram, or schematic
online for the TWI-180 model. In the USA, there is usually a printed
wiring diagram provided somewhere inside the dryer. Usually, it's in
a plastic envelope taped to the inside of a rear or side panel. If
you find the wiring diagram inside the dryer, please scan it and post
it.
Miele TWI 180 WP Eco & Steam WiFiConn@ct
https://www.mieleusa.com/e/t1-heat-pump-tumble-dryer-twi-180-wp-eco-and-steam-wificonn-ct-lotus-white-10666300-p
Operating instructions:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1360239/Miele-Twi-180-Wp.html

Good luck and please monitor the temperature when you first turn it
on.
--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


Jeff to clear things up my dryer is a Siemens WTXL722NL05 not a Miele (that is my washer) and a circuit breaker in my electrical system blew not a fuse in the the dryer. I just reset that one after unplugging the dryer. As for the heater they are known for failing after some times. This dryer is about 10 year old. Sorry for the misunderstanding because of my bad English.

Lou