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Old February 26th 19, 03:52 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
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Posts: 13,447
Default tubeless tires tech

On 2/25/2019 11:41 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 9:08:43 PM UTC-8, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 25 Feb 2019 17:55:47 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

On 2/25/2019 5:47 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 25 Feb 2019 13:29:39 -0800 (PST), Zen Cycle
wrote:

On Tuesday, February 19, 2019 at 1:03:17 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/19/2019 11:20 AM, AMuzi wrote:
https://janheine.wordpress.com/

Damn. Sounds complicated and fussy.


It's not that bad once you figure it out. There are a few tricks though - like coating the tire bead with sealant; using two smaller treatments of sealant rather than one heavier treatment. Until you get it right you're just as likely to experience a slow leak as you are to get a good seal. My last installation of tubeless-ready tires on tubeless rims on my MTB lasted for the whole springfall season with no problems. I'm lucky to get 30 miles a week on the MTB though.

All that makes gluing on a tubular sound easy :-)


Our grandfathers managed that in the 1890s without youtube.


Lord, the handicaps that the old folks operated under. It is simply
amazing that the survived at all.


The deal is that back in the bad old days, you could get a cheap cotton tubular . . . for cheap. I had bizarre crappy tubulars from Mexico and Clement Elvezias and 50s for $10 or so, or Vittoria Mondiales for under $10. They were SOP for sport bikes and nothing special. Then we got first generation Turbos or Mavic Elans, which rode like rocks and were not really competitive with even cheap tubulars. Then we got better clinchers like the Michelin Supercomp HDs and others. Then tubulars turned into race day novelties -- and really expensive novelites at that. Now, I can get a clincher that, with a latex tube, will give me lower rolling resistance than a well-glued tubular and way better rolling resistance than a poorly glued tubular. And it will cost way less and doesn't have to be glued or unstitched/restitched if it goes flat. My tubulars always looked wrong after a repair. I don't know why anyone bothers with tubulars except those in search of the last word in light weight --

and with a high budget and time to fuss with gluing. If you gave our forefathers a choice of a tubular versus a clincher, they would go with the clincher and wonder why non-racers used anything else. They would also go with indoor plumbing and cars.


Memory is not always reliable and I'm as vulnerable as
anyone but ISTR basic cotton tubulars in 1971[1] for $6 & up
with Clement Criterium Silk tires at $12 or so. If we take
your midprice $10 tire over to this page:

https://www.usinflationcalculator.com/

current value is $62 and so I conclude that your basic
cotton tubular has become a relatively better value in 40
some years while premium tubulars have become painfully
expensive.

People like what they like, and both systems work, but I
will stay with my tubs thanks.

[1] I was riding d'Alessandro and Wolber mostly then.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


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