On 2017-08-14 12:49, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, August 14, 2017 at 9:06:33 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-14 08:51, wrote:
On Monday, August 14, 2017 at 8:29:42 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, August 14, 2017 at 7:04:10 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-13 17:38, John B. wrote:
[...]
... Or are they just "same old" but in a new style "that we
can announce as an improvement and charge more money for"?
They are cheap alright but, as unfortunately usual for bike
parts, have a very paltry service life. For the same money my
MTB buddy bought a massive front wheel bearing assembly for
his Chevy Express van and they last hundreds of thousands of
miles. Not just 5000.
Because you buy **** and expect it to last forever. Octalink
was abandoned a decade ago and sucked when it was current
production -- as did ISIS and the small bearing BBs with OS
spindles.
Quit whining and buy a 105 compact crank with a $16 external
bearing BB. Your bike has no historical value and maintaining a
bad standard will just bring you back in one or two years with
the same complaints -- and the endless comparisons to the
longevity of 25lb car parts.
Well I have to agree with your idea if not your attitude.
When buying a $1k mainstream bicycle I expect things to last.
People with external bearings out here fare no better as their BBs
also develop creaks and bearing play after a few thousand miles.
Your options: (1) buy another BB and continue on with the crank until
you mis-install it and ruin the splines or it breaks. Mine broke --
snapped a crank arm. Good riddance. Move on. (2) Buy a reasonably
priced compact crank with outboard bearing BB, or (3) complain
incessantly that nothing lasts as long as the $25 alternator you
bought at Pep Boys.
If an outboard bearing BB goes south, you buy a new $16 Shimano unit
-- one of the greatest values in bicycledom. You can also buy an
outboard bearing unit with replaceable 24/37 bearings as was
mentioned previously when you groused about disposable BBs. My
outboard bearing units were quiet when installed with a little PTFE
tape and lasted a long time. My last threaded BB bike, however,
broke. BUT, I'm getting a free warranty replacement -- but it will
have a BB30. That's no big deal because I have the tools, and I can
buy cheap 6806 bearings if I want, or I can buy fancy Enduro
bearings.
There is no space down there on the MTB for outboard bearings. Unless
maybe there are fancy cranks for it but that's going to be expensive.
With this thread I was hoping someone could point me to a 1:1
replacement that is better at a reasonably higher cost. Looks like there
isn't so I'll probably just buy several ES25 sets (or maybe ES300 if
they fit) and use them as disposables just like chains and cassettes.
On the road bike the UN-55 I just installed is holding up. Knocking on wood.
It's similar with road bikes. A friend only buys high-class hubs
costing north of $200 a pop. They don't last longer than mine.
Then your friend is a poor shopper. Tell him to buy some Ultegra
hubs. Road hubs should last a long time. The M525 MTB rear disc hub
died on my commuter, but I think the hub cost me $25, and it was
ridden for years in wet weather.
AFAIK he has tried just about anything high-end from Shimano and the hub
he uses now turned out to last the longest. But not forever. I think he
rides more than 10k miles/year and the condition of most roads in
California isn't the greatest. It's usually the rear hub that goes.
--
Regards, Joerg
http://www.analogconsultants.com/