On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 3:33:38 PM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Saturday, January 7, 2017 at 9:33:31 PM UTC-5, Theodore Heise wrote:
Hi all,

I have an early 1990s Rodriguez tandem with a rear bottom bracket
in serious need of overhaul. The cranks flop severely.

I've pulled the cranks and the lock ring on the left side, but the
adjustable cup won't come out. It turns about a quarter turn, but
then gets too stiff to turn further. It has no flats for a wrench
instead having holes for turning with a pin spanner--so I'm unable
to put a lot of force on it.

I've soaked it with WD40, but still no joy. Any advice for me?

--
Ted Heise Bloomington, IN, USA

Sometimes a partially stuck (yours turns a bit) adjustable cup can be removed by:

Putting something firm like a large socket over the spindle so thatthe edges ofthe socket are against the cup and the spindle is not protruding beyond that socket. Then you give the socked a few good raps with a mallet. Often that'll break loose a lot of the corrosion in thethreads. If the cup still doesn't turn easily I'd put my pin spnaar in position and then add spacers until the spacers are just beyond the edge of the spindle and then put the bolt back into the spindle to hold the washers in place against the pin tool which in turn stops the pin tool from slipping. I can put a lot more pressure on the pin tool that way. Alternatively, after tapping the socket that you put over the spindle and agaist the adjustable cup you can lay the bike on its side with the adjustable cup up and put your favourite penetrating solution onto any threads that are outside the BB shell. the fluid then has a better chance of running into the threads inside the shell than it does if the bike is vertical.

Good luck and cheers

That makes a lot more sense than hitting your frame bottom bracket with a hammer. I have heard of your method working but I have never got it to work for me.

The idea is to get the socket against the adjustable cup.