Jeff, thanks for the info. First, sorry for the confusion. My use of the
term "freehub" is consistent with this page:
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/..._freehub.shtml
I mean the black hub the cassette sprockets are installed on.
I have binding on the freehub body with no cassette installed. My
understanding is that the bearings inside the freehub body are very small
compared to wheel hub bearings for example. Thus my initial suspicion that I
may have over torqued it on the first install.
When you say something is lodged in the cassette cogs, are you referring to
the ratchet mechanism inside the freehub body? Or the actual cassette cogs
(ie. sprockets). If the latter, there are no sprockets installed and I still
feel the binding. It's definitely internal to the freehub body.
I'll try to remove the freehub body from one of the spare hubs and see how
far I get.
Thanks again.
-Peter
PS - I live in Canada so I'll try a few local shops but I'm not too
optimistic. The hub is quite old school (Shimano 600, 7 speed). Not sure
I'll have much luck sourcing a new freehub body.
"JeffWills" wrote in message
oups.com...
peter z wrote:
Hi Everyone,
While swapping the cassette on my old Shimano 600 7 speed hub, I seem to
have damaged the freehub. Namely, it seems to bind somewhat when I spin
it.
In order to swap cassettes I used the procedure at
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml using the FR-5 Park
tool.
I used my skewer to sung up the tool and then used a 1" wrench and chain
whip to loosen the lock ring. Upon reassembly, I used only the 1" wrench
(FR-5 snugged up using skewer). I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
think I torqued too much. In any event, now my freehub is binding and
does
not spin as freely as the freehubs on a couple of spare hubs I have.
I'll presume that you think you've damaged the cassette body, not the
"freehub". "Freehub" is Shimano argot for the entire unit.
In my experience, it's very hard to damage the Shimano cassette body.
At least, I've never hurt one in 15 years of kitbashing Shimano hubs,
including many, many cassette swaps and a number of body transplants. I
would suspect that something has become lodged under the cassette cogs
and is rubbing on the aluminum hub body.
How easy is it to damage the freehub using this technique? The only step
from above that I can see would cause the binding is the final
tightening of
the cassette lock ring, is that the likely cause?
Since I have the spare hubs, how can I remove the freehub from one of
them?
They are both unlaced so I'm not sure how to resist the torque required
to
loosen the 10mm freehub bolt. Any ideas?
I've removed cassette bodys from unlaced hubs (on the living room
coffee table, if you must know). The hold-down bolt is not incredibly
tight- usually it can be loosened with a short, sharp, shock. Dig it?
If you're removing the cassette body from a hub that you're not
planning on saving, hold the hub at the flange with a large pipe
wrench.
After transplantation, it would be good to tighten the body on the
"new" hub after the wheel is built. I've got wheels where I have not
done this (and they're still intact), but it would be good to make sure
the proper torque is applied. Park Tool recommends 300 to 400
inch-pounds (25 to 34 foot-pounds):
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/torque.shtml
Lastly, does anyone know where to get a new freehub for the Shimano 600
hubs
if I can't free one of my spares? I see that Nashbar does not list this
part
at all for example. Are they easy to get?
Presuming you're in the U.S., any bike shop should be able to order one
through Quality Bicycle products:
http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.c...=481&Brand=367
Jeff