On 2018-11-10 15:09, Gregory Sutter wrote:
On 2018-11-10, Joerg wrote:
Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T from
my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire the trusty old
Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to become ever wider and
also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I can use the more robust
old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs
anymore). In the past I hacked cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted
and re-used the old spacers. Can the larger cassettes like in the link
below still be hacked apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to
get them apart. If memory serves me correctly I've installed a Shimano
STX-RC freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub had croaked.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327
This post makes me question a lot of things, including your sense of
time invested vs getting what you want no matter how the industry has
stopped doing it that way.
That's how I roll. I never spent a whole lot of time getting the things
I want, regardless of what industry folks have decided. Hacking a
cassette and assembling a custom one from the parts takes just a few
minutes extra. BTDT. It just has to be hackable and sometimes that isn't
very visible in sales photos, hence my post.
... Moving past that, though:
If you want to maintain 7sp spacing, then your hub has a 7sp cassette
body, probably HG with 31.9mm width. You should tell us specifically
what it is, though; widths vary, including the also-7sp Shimano IG.
Embarrassed to say, that is the only piece of info I forgot to enter
into my bike computer file. IIRC what I installed is a Shimano STX-RC
7=speed hub which supposedly is the only one that can replace a UG hub
without being excessively wide. It barely fit but I had to jiggle the
spacers to make a 7-speed set-up work. I can run it with 6 cogs no sweat
though, or grind off the teeth on the outermost cog (because there is a
rack screw in the way). I did have to re-dish the wheel for this change.
You've posted an 8sp cassette (36.5mm width). Photo #2 shows the
one silver and two black pins holding the cogs together. You could
think about using a drill press, I suppose, but looking at photo #1
there looks like a color difference between the smallest 3 cogs and
the rest, which adds to my suspicion that they're separate from the
larger pinned set. If that's so, then you can think about omitting
cogs and spacers to fit the smaller width of your cassette body.
That's what I'd like to try. Jay wrote that it's hackable so that is good.
For the derailer, if your 600 is a GS (aka mid cage) instead
of the short one, which I assume it is due to your current 32t
configuration, then you might try keeping it and adding a Wolf
Tooth Roadlink. Making your bike one more bit of a hack should be
considered a central part of this quest, and that fits the bill while
hopefully allowing you to keep using existing equipment.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...ducts/roadlink
It's a short cage 600 and the only way I got it to shift up to the 32T
was to scoot the rear wheel a bit forward in the slotted drop-outs.
They've got alignment screws for that. This derailer is pretty tired,
noisy idlers and all that, so getting a new long-cage one is probably
wise. I'd have to find out if those shift to 40T though or I'd have to
buy an adapter. You can get adapters from other manufacturers for around $7.
--
Regards, Joerg
http://www.analogconsultants.com/