On 2017-11-11 14:34, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/11/2017 4:06 PM, Joerg wrote:
Folks,
I'd like to get rid of the QR on my MTB and replace the
whole chebang with a solid axle, preferably CroMo. I want
the cones and other hardware from the old one to fit. Seems
hard to find these days. What I measure on the existing axle
is a diameter of 0.349" which usually translates to 9mm.
However, most front axles I see are 9.5mm. Are they just
called that or are they really 9.5mm?
Some dealers have 9x1 which I think means 9mm and 24tpi. Is
that the usual standard?
The lengths are also a bit excessive, 155mm where only 140mm
is needed but I could either cover that with something round
(to avoid it tearing into flesh during a crash) or grind it
off.
Most current solid fronts are m9x1 standard metric. Solid front axles
used to be m8x1 and still are for the low end of bicycles. Your QR
front is m9x1
Thanks, that is great. That means I can simply swap out the axle.
What hub is it? Current Shimano F BO&QR hubs are m9x1
It is a Formula DC-73. The rear (DC-30) is different and has a 10mm
axle. Some day I'll also replace the rear with a solid axle but that
isn't as urgent.
Why not just buy a solid front axle set complete?
Doesn't matter, I'd also take a complete set but it should be CroMo.
Dirt cheap, available anywhere bicycles are commonly serviced. Replace
your bearings while you're in there.
It's the old adjustable cone and balls deal but with pretty good dust
caps. So far it all looked nice and clean when I re-greased. The MTB
probably has 5-6k miles on it.
Nope that's not 24tpi they are metric.
Nope 9.5mm was mostly the old rear solid axle format.
Yes solid fronts run about 140mm overall I think your 155mm number is
for a 9.5mm solid rear.
Good advice. 140mm would fit nicely.
The main reason is that I always had the front axle work itself out and
gouge the inside of the left fork drop-out because bicycles have the
front brake caliper on the wrong side (back instead of front). The only
way to prevent this from happening is lubing up the QR as good as
possible and then close it very tight. A friend of mine had a QR snap
off during a ride on his MTB. Luckily it was the rear wheel, the front
could result in a ghastly crash.
--
Regards, Joerg
http://www.analogconsultants.com/