On May 15, 11:42*am, Tom Lake wrote:
... however, I had an old, quality frame from the '80s with 100K on
it; the components were worn, so I set it up with a "flip flop" hub
and I found that it suits me well.

One question, though: chain tension is a bear. *When you have to
remove the rear wheel, what's the best method of getting it back in
with correct tension on the drive chain? *I need a few more hands, I
fear. *The BMX crowd has those chain devices that seem to work on that
style of drop out. *What's my method with the 30 degree drop outs?

I have a solid axle.

Have you read Sheldon on the subject?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html

There's a good section there about getting your chainring as
concentric as possible.

Sheldon also talks about "walking" the rear wheel into desired
position (serving to regulate chain tension). Tighten one side semi-
tight, work the wheel back and forth, tightening sides as appropriate
to arrive at correct chain tension with a centered wheel.
On a good day I can jam a hand in between the seat tube and the rear
tire and do it with two "tightens".

(excuse me) Don't check a moving chain's tension with your fingers,
any way shape or form. There are pictures of guys they started calling
"Stumpy" after one or more digits got sucked into the chain and drive
teeth of cog or chainring.

Fixed or freewheel (including the White Industries Dos Uno two-cog
fixed arrangement), good deal, it's fun. Just got my fixed out the
other day and had one of the best 2011 rides so far, excellent and I
only forgot once!
--D-y