On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:20:48 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 9:22 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote:

I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE
improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back
in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used.

Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club
mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his
individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding.
They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe
clips.

There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and
US football kicker. They are outliers.

One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from
people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted
to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with
training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat
pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care.

Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless
for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in
or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them.

Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and
put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in,
plus shoes with soft tacky tread.

In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to
reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy.

I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously
steep climbs etc.

I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but
proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my
experience.

Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove.

Roger Merriman
Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals.
Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank?
I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top.
Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts.
Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after.

I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner.

Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank.
Can't those be Helicoiled?

Yes, I was being overly-dramatic. Many times you can just screw the pedal back in, although I screw it back in with thread lock and recommended torque because recommended torque alone may not be enough to keep it in.

-- Jay Beattie.