On 2017-11-13 15:07, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 13, 2017 at 10:17:14 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-12 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:38:50 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 18:13, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote:


[...]

... Avid uses a higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty
to keep your stem and headset tight, but probably not in
Cameron Park.


It does but only if I smear some grit-laden toothpaste on
the fork tube before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for
electric brushing but the regular paste. What I am saying
is that 5nm feels like it's about to strip the aluminum
threads out.

I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-)


Trying to be a minimalist I have a makeshift one that was
ridiculed here but when compared to pro gear is more accurate
than anything from a hardware sto A digital suitcase scale.
I can torque a screw to precisely 44 in-lbs. Not 42 or 46 but
exactly 44. Try that with one of those ratchet gizmos.


Yup, you can use a scale and a carefully measured length wrench
but it is hardly necessary as torque limits always seem to be
quite liberal. Shimano specifies 2 - 4 Nm (18 - 36 "lbs) for
brake disc attaching bolts. No need to get right down to the nth
degree.


I know. Just mentioned it because there are people here who
seriously think the suitcase scale method is inaccurate.

No, it's just dopey -- it's like using a nail and a hammer to remove
a chain rivet . . . oh wait. Never mind.


Both methods work fine. Until I got a digital scale as a present I used
a butcher "hook scale" which was just fine. As for the hammer and nail
that is how I opened scores of chains when I had used them up as a
university student. When all you have is a single room of 150sqft or
less and your monthly budget is $300 including rent, utilities, food,
books, beer and all you learn minimalist strategies quickly.

Since about two years I am the proud owner of a chain breaker because it
was part of a PricePoint bike tool kit. I wish they had thrown in a T-25
driver instead because that can't easily be kludged. Do I get my chains
open any faster? Nope.

BTW you also need some rock or a sturdy surface and a steel nut, any old
nut, to lay the chain link onto so the pin flies into that. For that
purpose I used a chunk of railroad flat-bottom rail as an anvil which I
still have.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/