I will need to start riding with a higher handlebar position to accomodate
a
neck injury that requires a more upright position. If I were to use any
method to extend the stem to achieve this, will I be placing too much
stress
on the head tube?

The issue isn't with the head tube, but rather the fork's steer tube. As you
go to a taller stem (or bar), you increase the leverage on the fork column.
Standard threaded fork columns are already a bit weak in their threaded
portion, so make sure you have the stem inserted quite a ways into the tube,
a bit further down than the indicated min height mark if possible.

You'll notice that it's quite a bit flexier as you go higher, but that's
usually not a major issue, since you're not putting as much weight on the
bar as you sit more upright.

Also, make certain that your saddle is level. Any downward tilt at the front
end will greatly aggravate neck & shoulder pain, since you're essentially
pushing back (with your arms) the entire time you're riding, in order to
maintain position on the saddle.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA


"Magnusfarce" wrote in message
...
I will need to start riding with a higher handlebar position to accomodate
a
neck injury that requires a more upright position. If I were to use any
method to extend the stem to achieve this, will I be placing too much
stress
on the head tube?

I've experimented with a cheap adjustable stem on my old road bike and
notice that everything seems pretty unwieldy up at the front end. I guess
I
will need to get a bike with a frame geometry that can handle this. Does
the length of the head tube make a large difference in its strength, i.e.,
its ability to handle the added stress? What other factors should I look
for in a frame (hybrid, mountain, etc.)? Right now I'm staring pretty
hard
at the Trek 7700fx.

- Magnusfarce