On Sun, 15 Jan 2017 10:24:46 -0600,
AMuzi wrote:
On 1/14/2017 5:33 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jan 2017 16:46:53 -0500, Ted Heise
wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jan 2017, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/9/2017 4:26 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 8 Jan 2017 10:43:33 -0800 (PST),
wrote:
On Sunday, January 8, 2017 at 10:01:31 AM UTC-8, Theodore Heise wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2017 11:08:20 -0600,
AMuzi wrote:
On 1/7/2017 8:33 PM, Theodore Heise wrote:

I have an early 1990s Rodriguez tandem with a rear
bottom bracket in serious need of overhaul [both cups
stuck]

Delco 10.4020 penetrant is the best, PC Blaster is
good. Warming with a heat gun can help.

If no other path, flats can be cut on the cup with a
disc grinder to allow a wrench instead of those brittle
expensive pins.

p.s. Try the right side cup too. If that moves, you can
easily deal with the left one after disasssembly.

Thanks for the added tips. Off to get penetrating oil
and new pins now. Grinding on it is beyond my
abilities, so if I'm not able to get things off with the
addition of penetrating oil and time, I'll be hauling it
off to my LBS.

As a last resort, once I simply pulled out the bottom
bracket via the fixed side and then spend half a day
cutting the adjustable cup with a hacksaw blade up to but
not touching the threads. This allowed the cup to
collapse partially when the pin spanner was applied and
come loose.

Just to clarify (I have spent a lot of time with Angel
Rodriguez and in his shop; your BB is BSC threaded) the
chain side (right side when riding) cup is reverse thread.
The non-drive side (clean side, adjustable side, left side)
unscrews like a jar lid.

Okay, after nearly a week of daily Blaster drips, I got
replacement pins last night. Today I was able to get the
adjustable cup out, a bit of back and forth helped.

Now I'm tackling the fixed cup, using the large bolts and
wrenches as described by Sheldon. So far I haven't been able
to get it to budge, and before I spend too much time moosing
on it I want to double confirm it is reverse threaded. In
other words, I should be turning from the outside of the
shell and not from the inside.

I've never been able to make Sheldon's scheme of a bolt, nut
and washers work as he described it. What I have had success
with was using a nut, bolt and washers to clamp the correct
size wrench in place so it didn't slip when loosening the
fixed cup. I've no idea of costs in the U.S. but here a cheap
Chinese wrench costs, maybe, a dollar, or even three :-)

The Zeus and Kingsbridge tools of that style have big flat
faces for maximum contact with the cup and a hefty Acme thread.
They are best used in a vise, secured together and then the
frame is unscrewed from the cup.

Where there are still useful wrench flats on the cup, using
them is the best approach IMHO.

In the way of follow up, I can now report complete success. I
picked up an additional large bolt, nut, and washer that allowed
me to clamp the Park tool securely against the fixed cup flats
(and rounds). I then fastened a four-foot length of 1" pipe to
the tool arm with two hose clamps. Using this I was able to get
the fixed cup out fairly easily.

The front (captain's) cups were not much of a challenge to get
out. The adjustable cup turned freely, once the lockring was off.
The fixed cup sneered at the unassisted Park tool, so I set up the
same clamping and pipe extension. First go, the eccentric started
turning in the shell--so I had to disassemble the clamping setup,
and tighten the eccentric's wedge. After that, the secured wrench
(with cheater extension) was able to turn the fixed cup loose.

Off to the LBS now to order neew parts. Probably sealed cartridge
units for both.

Thanks again for the great help!

--
Ted Heise Bloomington, IN, USA