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#11
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Front axle, what thread?
On 2017-11-13 12:38, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 11/13/2017 2:03 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-13 10:29, AMuzi wrote: On 11/13/2017 12:21 PM, Joerg wrote: I just noticed that finding a 9mm solid axle from CroMo is very tough. The ones I found were all non-metric or sealed-hub BMX. Or no key-way which can make a front wheel removal in the field hard. I'll probably visit some shops that sell and service used bikes which is where I bought my last CroMo rear axle for the old MTB (after which it didn't bend or break anymore). You haven't really looked: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Dur...gAAOSwk9dZnPkv cheaper for a new complete hub: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-HB-...kAAOSwr6pZ9M1K Not so fond of a used axle but do you know whether the HB-TX500 has a CroMo axle or is otherwise sturdy enough for heavy trail use? I'd have to find some nuts as well but that should be easy. I'm curious what failure mode you expect in a standard steel solid front axle. The failure modes I have experienced several times: 1. Bending. 2. Broken through (not just cracked but split apart). -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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#12
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Front axle, what thread?
J, how check for bent axles ?
yawl buying cheap metals |
#13
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Front axle, what thread?
On 11/13/2017 4:20 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-13 12:38, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/13/2017 2:03 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-13 10:29, AMuzi wrote: On 11/13/2017 12:21 PM, Joerg wrote: I just noticed that finding a 9mm solid axle from CroMo is very tough. The ones I found were all non-metric or sealed-hub BMX. Or no key-way which can make a front wheel removal in the field hard. I'll probably visit some shops that sell and service used bikes which is where I bought my last CroMo rear axle for the old MTB (after which it didn't bend or break anymore). You haven't really looked: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Dur...gAAOSwk9dZnPkv cheaper for a new complete hub: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-HB-...kAAOSwr6pZ9M1K Not so fond of a used axle but do you know whether the HB-TX500 has a CroMo axle or is otherwise sturdy enough for heavy trail use? I'd have to find some nuts as well but that should be easy. I'm curious what failure mode you expect in a standard steel solid front axle. The failure modes I have experienced several times: 1. Bending. 2. Broken through (not just cracked but split apart). On a front axle that's solid steel? I ask because the distance between the inner races and the supporting fork ends is very small. That means there's only a very small moment arm, so the axle is loaded more in shear than in bending. In fact, the cones and lock nut assembly is smack up against the fork ends, a situation which provides more reinforcement against bending. That's in contrast to rear axles on freewheel hubs, which I have broken. On those, the right side bearing is a considerable distance inboard from the supporting dropout. That gives a moment arm or lever arm that imposes bending stresses not seen by the front axle. What were the details? What did you do that caused this? -- - Frank Krygowski |
#14
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Front axle, what thread?
On 2017-11-13 18:33, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 11/13/2017 4:20 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-13 12:38, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/13/2017 2:03 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-13 10:29, AMuzi wrote: On 11/13/2017 12:21 PM, Joerg wrote: I just noticed that finding a 9mm solid axle from CroMo is very tough. The ones I found were all non-metric or sealed-hub BMX. Or no key-way which can make a front wheel removal in the field hard. I'll probably visit some shops that sell and service used bikes which is where I bought my last CroMo rear axle for the old MTB (after which it didn't bend or break anymore). You haven't really looked: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Dur...gAAOSwk9dZnPkv cheaper for a new complete hub: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-HB-...kAAOSwr6pZ9M1K Not so fond of a used axle but do you know whether the HB-TX500 has a CroMo axle or is otherwise sturdy enough for heavy trail use? I'd have to find some nuts as well but that should be easy. I'm curious what failure mode you expect in a standard steel solid front axle. The failure modes I have experienced several times: 1. Bending. 2. Broken through (not just cracked but split apart). On a front axle that's solid steel? Yup. I ask because the distance between the inner races and the supporting fork ends is very small. That means there's only a very small moment arm, so the axle is loaded more in shear than in bending. In fact, the cones and lock nut assembly is smack up against the fork ends, a situation which provides more reinforcement against bending. Those fork ends are not of the rigidity and size of Mt.Rushmore. That's in contrast to rear axles on freewheel hubs, which I have broken. On those, the right side bearing is a considerable distance inboard from the supporting dropout. That gives a moment arm or lever arm that imposes bending stresses not seen by the front axle. Yes, that is a well-know design flaw of freewheels hubs. I bent so many of those that I don't remember the count. Sometimes within less than a month of installing a new axle. What were the details? What did you do that caused this? I used regular bikes on forest paths and, ahem, sometimes rough singletrack. Didn't have a choice because we could not buy MTB, at least not in Europe. IIRC the number of busted front axles was low in comparison to rear axles, only three or so. None of the bikes had any suspension. The symptoms were the usual. When bent the wheel sits in there off kilter. The axle that broke felt like the bike had become a boat. What I don't know is whether this could happen with a 9mm non CroMo front axle on a MTB that has a 4" suspension fork. I only lock that while on pavement and it muffles the shock forces a lot. Also, I am not riding as hard as I used to when I was decades younger and "invincible". -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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