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#22
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torque wrench issues
wrote in message ... On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 14:22:04 -0700 (PDT), Andre Jute wrote: On Monday, April 24, 2017 at 1:19:49 AM UTC+1, wrote: I'm not aware of any "torque to yield" bolts in use on bicycles. Sure you are. Only they're not bolts but socket drive adaptors stamped "Made in China". If you're driving a 1/4in drive socket, use two of these adapters, 1/43/8 and 3/81/4 and the cheap metal of the drive adaptor will twist off in your expensive Snap-On socket long before the bolt is over-torqued. Getting the job done with whatever tools I have often involves not treating them well. Cheap tools aren't always *THAT* much a false economy.................. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
#23
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torque wrench issues
On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 20:16:22 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote: "John B Slocomb" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 22:17:14 -0400, wrote: On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 07:42:21 +0700, John B Slocomb wrote: On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 19:51:41 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: wrote in message om... On Sun, 23 Apr 2017 22:06:05 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "Emanuel Berg" wrote in message ... I finally got the 1/2" torque wrench, 28-210 Nm, not even made in China, but in Taiwan! Eh... I guess it depends who you ask if that is China or not It has a locking screw, a torque setting handle, a scale (Nm as well as "FT-LB", some English unit I take it?) - it also as a locking lever on top just like an ordinary ratchet, so it can go both ways, clockwise and anti-clockwise. The torques only work in the clockwise direction. So if the locking (ratchet) lever is set the other way, it is just a ratchet, right? Well, in the manual it says: Note: Never use the torque wrench to undo nuts, bolts or other fasteners as this will damage the ratchet mechanism and the calibrated settings. So how does that add up? Is it only OK to use the anti-clockwise pull to insert things, which would require a left thread? (And it would be just a long shaft, with the torque not in effect.) As for me, I don't plan using it for anything but as a torque, because I have other, less expensive ratchets and spanners to do the everyday stuff. But of course, I'd like to know what it means. It also came with a certificate with data on the calibration and in the manual it says it should be recalibrated at least every 12 months. Calibration is irrelevant if you don't follow the rules to the letter. Most torque settings I've seen were for dry threads - any stray lubricant and you might even twist the end off at the correct torque. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com Torque specs vary considerably by application. Some are given as clean and dry, some are given as lubricated with oil - some are given cold, and others hot. That said, I personally have never run across a torque spec that was so "close to the edge" that torqing with "stray lubrication" would cause immediate failure of the bolt by twisting off the end. However, that said, most of my wrenching has not been on bicycles but on automobiles and agricultural and construction equipment which may be slightly more "overengineered" or "overbuilt" Bicycles tend to have less things you can twist the end off. Its common on motorcycles, but mainly pulling the threads out of alloy castings. Its pretty rare to strip an engine down so far that you can put the castings in degreasing plant - torquing the engine case bolts with oil left in the holes is a very good chance of stripping the threads. As for stripping engine bolts, the Honda factory used to install fasteners so tight that a normal person couldn't get them out without an"impact driver". A tool that I never even saw before the Japanese invasion. The lock washers were very effective where used, and the Phipips style bolts were incapable of delivering enough torque to breat them loose without camming out - the Hammer Impact driver solved that problem I believe I've read that the "Phillips" headed screws in a Japanese motorcycle are not actually "Phillips" but some Japanese standard that didn't quite match the screwdrivers we had in the U.S. Which probably didn't help either :-) That's the *whole* cause - just grind a tiny bit off the point of the screwdriver bit and it fits just right. The bits on my Impact driver fit perfectly without grinding. Note I said Philips "style" (I know, I mis-spelled it) bolts. Some of the early Jap stuff didn't use Cadmium plated bolts either - - - |
#24
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torque wrench issues
wrote in message ... On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 20:16:22 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "John B Slocomb" wrote in message . .. On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 22:17:14 -0400, wrote: On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 07:42:21 +0700, John B Slocomb wrote: On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 19:51:41 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: wrote in message news:vmfqfc17u3012cn5jrkkk4r335ol6r5s8a@4ax. com... On Sun, 23 Apr 2017 22:06:05 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "Emanuel Berg" wrote in message ... I finally got the 1/2" torque wrench, 28-210 Nm, not even made in China, but in Taiwan! Eh... I guess it depends who you ask if that is China or not It has a locking screw, a torque setting handle, a scale (Nm as well as "FT-LB", some English unit I take it?) - it also as a locking lever on top just like an ordinary ratchet, so it can go both ways, clockwise and anti-clockwise. The torques only work in the clockwise direction. So if the locking (ratchet) lever is set the other way, it is just a ratchet, right? Well, in the manual it says: Note: Never use the torque wrench to undo nuts, bolts or other fasteners as this will damage the ratchet mechanism and the calibrated settings. So how does that add up? Is it only OK to use the anti-clockwise pull to insert things, which would require a left thread? (And it would be just a long shaft, with the torque not in effect.) As for me, I don't plan using it for anything but as a torque, because I have other, less expensive ratchets and spanners to do the everyday stuff. But of course, I'd like to know what it means. It also came with a certificate with data on the calibration and in the manual it says it should be recalibrated at least every 12 months. Calibration is irrelevant if you don't follow the rules to the letter. Most torque settings I've seen were for dry threads - any stray lubricant and you might even twist the end off at the correct torque. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com Torque specs vary considerably by application. Some are given as clean and dry, some are given as lubricated with oil - some are given cold, and others hot. That said, I personally have never run across a torque spec that was so "close to the edge" that torqing with "stray lubrication" would cause immediate failure of the bolt by twisting off the end. However, that said, most of my wrenching has not been on bicycles but on automobiles and agricultural and construction equipment which may be slightly more "overengineered" or "overbuilt" Bicycles tend to have less things you can twist the end off. Its common on motorcycles, but mainly pulling the threads out of alloy castings. Its pretty rare to strip an engine down so far that you can put the castings in degreasing plant - torquing the engine case bolts with oil left in the holes is a very good chance of stripping the threads. As for stripping engine bolts, the Honda factory used to install fasteners so tight that a normal person couldn't get them out without an"impact driver". A tool that I never even saw before the Japanese invasion. The lock washers were very effective where used, and the Phipips style bolts were incapable of delivering enough torque to breat them loose without camming out - the Hammer Impact driver solved that problem I believe I've read that the "Phillips" headed screws in a Japanese motorcycle are not actually "Phillips" but some Japanese standard that didn't quite match the screwdrivers we had in the U.S. Which probably didn't help either :-) That's the *whole* cause - just grind a tiny bit off the point of the screwdriver bit and it fits just right. The bits on my Impact driver fit perfectly without grinding. Note I said Philips "style" (I know, I mis-spelled it) bolts. Some of the early Jap stuff didn't use Cadmium plated bolts either - W10 imploded and I had to start over with a replacement news account. So back to old name. The japs were the worst of the lot for cadmium plated fasteners. The very toxic cadmium rubs off on your hands and is cumulative in the body - it causes such acute osteoporosis; you can end up fracturing ribs just by coughing. In the UK - nickel plated fasteners became fashionable about the 80s. They didn't do much about cadmium plated chassis in electronic equipment until RoHS. AFAIK: cadmium batteries are exempt from RoHS - but they've more or less vanished from the shops anyway. Cadmium is very nasty - wash your hands after handling anything plated with it! |
#25
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torque wrench issues
On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 19:53:16 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote: wrote in message .. . On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 20:16:22 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "John B Slocomb" wrote in message ... On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 22:17:14 -0400, wrote: On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 07:42:21 +0700, John B Slocomb wrote: On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 19:51:41 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: wrote in message news:vmfqfc17u3012cn5jrkkk4r335ol6r5s8a@4ax .com... On Sun, 23 Apr 2017 22:06:05 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "Emanuel Berg" wrote in message ... I finally got the 1/2" torque wrench, 28-210 Nm, not even made in China, but in Taiwan! Eh... I guess it depends who you ask if that is China or not It has a locking screw, a torque setting handle, a scale (Nm as well as "FT-LB", some English unit I take it?) - it also as a locking lever on top just like an ordinary ratchet, so it can go both ways, clockwise and anti-clockwise. The torques only work in the clockwise direction. So if the locking (ratchet) lever is set the other way, it is just a ratchet, right? Well, in the manual it says: Note: Never use the torque wrench to undo nuts, bolts or other fasteners as this will damage the ratchet mechanism and the calibrated settings. So how does that add up? Is it only OK to use the anti-clockwise pull to insert things, which would require a left thread? (And it would be just a long shaft, with the torque not in effect.) As for me, I don't plan using it for anything but as a torque, because I have other, less expensive ratchets and spanners to do the everyday stuff. But of course, I'd like to know what it means. It also came with a certificate with data on the calibration and in the manual it says it should be recalibrated at least every 12 months. Calibration is irrelevant if you don't follow the rules to the letter. Most torque settings I've seen were for dry threads - any stray lubricant and you might even twist the end off at the correct torque. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com Torque specs vary considerably by application. Some are given as clean and dry, some are given as lubricated with oil - some are given cold, and others hot. That said, I personally have never run across a torque spec that was so "close to the edge" that torqing with "stray lubrication" would cause immediate failure of the bolt by twisting off the end. However, that said, most of my wrenching has not been on bicycles but on automobiles and agricultural and construction equipment which may be slightly more "overengineered" or "overbuilt" Bicycles tend to have less things you can twist the end off. Its common on motorcycles, but mainly pulling the threads out of alloy castings. Its pretty rare to strip an engine down so far that you can put the castings in degreasing plant - torquing the engine case bolts with oil left in the holes is a very good chance of stripping the threads. As for stripping engine bolts, the Honda factory used to install fasteners so tight that a normal person couldn't get them out without an"impact driver". A tool that I never even saw before the Japanese invasion. The lock washers were very effective where used, and the Phipips style bolts were incapable of delivering enough torque to breat them loose without camming out - the Hammer Impact driver solved that problem I believe I've read that the "Phillips" headed screws in a Japanese motorcycle are not actually "Phillips" but some Japanese standard that didn't quite match the screwdrivers we had in the U.S. Which probably didn't help either :-) That's the *whole* cause - just grind a tiny bit off the point of the screwdriver bit and it fits just right. The bits on my Impact driver fit perfectly without grinding. Note I said Philips "style" (I know, I mis-spelled it) bolts. Some of the early Jap stuff didn't use Cadmium plated bolts either - W10 imploded and I had to start over with a replacement news account. So back to old name. The japs were the worst of the lot for cadmium plated fasteners. The very toxic cadmium rubs off on your hands and is cumulative in the body - it causes such acute osteoporosis; you can end up fracturing ribs just by coughing. In the UK - nickel plated fasteners became fashionable about the 80s. They didn't do much about cadmium plated chassis in electronic equipment until RoHS. AFAIK: cadmium batteries are exempt from RoHS - but they've more or less vanished from the shops anyway. Cadmium is very nasty - wash your hands after handling anything plated with it! from Cadmium, A Health Hazard Surface Treatment C. Rehm ESG Einsteinstr. 174 D-81675 Munich, Germany An object containing cadmium is not especially injurious to health on its own. No risk is involved simply by touching it. A potential hazard occurs, however, when such objects are processed and high temperatures are generated. The reacting capacity of cadmium with oxygen at high temperatures results in cadmium oxide.Cadmium oxide is formed during grinding, filing and welding operations, for example. The fumes of cadmium oxide get into the human organism upon inhaling. One aspect which should not be ignored is the cadmium-plating process and also the waste disposal of items containing cadmium. This is the way into the environment. |
#26
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torque wrench issues
Man, you're beyond ignorant:
On Saturday, April 29, 2017 at 7:53:18 PM UTC+1, Ian Field wrote: The japs were the worst of the lot for cadmium plated fasteners. The very toxic cadmium rubs off on your hands and is cumulative in the body - it causes such acute osteoporosis; you can end up fracturing ribs just by coughing. Cadmium is not toxic. I work with it every day in watercolor and oil paint, and so do a million other artists, restorers, museum workers, mechanics, etc. In the UK - nickel plated fasteners became fashionable about the 80s. They didn't do much about cadmium plated chassis in electronic equipment until RoHS. Oh dear. Veteran and vintage car enthusiasts are closely familiar with nickel plating. Polished nickel was standard engine finish on Rolls and Bentley from the beginning, and found on much trim as well. Cadmium is very nasty - wash your hands after handling anything plated with it! Rubbish. Touching cadmium is harmless. Icon painters handle pure cadmium daily (they grind it up to fine dust and mix it with linseed or poppy oil) and as a class they are known for living well beyond their allotted threescore years and ten before they go up to meet the Big Icon, so even breathing the stuff is not life threatening. Cadmium needs to be burned at high temperature to produce cadmium oxide, which in large enough concentration can be harmful. Andre Jute Some people will believe anything a bureaucrat says |
#27
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torque wrench issues
wrote in message ... On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 19:53:16 +0100, "Ian Field" wrote: wrote in message . .. On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 20:16:22 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "John B Slocomb" wrote in message m... On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 22:17:14 -0400, wrote: On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 07:42:21 +0700, John B Slocomb wrote: On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 19:51:41 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: wrote in message news:vmfqfc17u3012cn5jrkkk4r335ol6r5s8a@4a x.com... On Sun, 23 Apr 2017 22:06:05 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "Emanuel Berg" wrote in message ... I finally got the 1/2" torque wrench, 28-210 Nm, not even made in China, but in Taiwan! Eh... I guess it depends who you ask if that is China or not It has a locking screw, a torque setting handle, a scale (Nm as well as "FT-LB", some English unit I take it?) - it also as a locking lever on top just like an ordinary ratchet, so it can go both ways, clockwise and anti-clockwise. The torques only work in the clockwise direction. So if the locking (ratchet) lever is set the other way, it is just a ratchet, right? Well, in the manual it says: Note: Never use the torque wrench to undo nuts, bolts or other fasteners as this will damage the ratchet mechanism and the calibrated settings. So how does that add up? Is it only OK to use the anti-clockwise pull to insert things, which would require a left thread? (And it would be just a long shaft, with the torque not in effect.) As for me, I don't plan using it for anything but as a torque, because I have other, less expensive ratchets and spanners to do the everyday stuff. But of course, I'd like to know what it means. It also came with a certificate with data on the calibration and in the manual it says it should be recalibrated at least every 12 months. Calibration is irrelevant if you don't follow the rules to the letter. Most torque settings I've seen were for dry threads - any stray lubricant and you might even twist the end off at the correct torque. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com Torque specs vary considerably by application. Some are given as clean and dry, some are given as lubricated with oil - some are given cold, and others hot. That said, I personally have never run across a torque spec that was so "close to the edge" that torqing with "stray lubrication" would cause immediate failure of the bolt by twisting off the end. However, that said, most of my wrenching has not been on bicycles but on automobiles and agricultural and construction equipment which may be slightly more "overengineered" or "overbuilt" Bicycles tend to have less things you can twist the end off. Its common on motorcycles, but mainly pulling the threads out of alloy castings. Its pretty rare to strip an engine down so far that you can put the castings in degreasing plant - torquing the engine case bolts with oil left in the holes is a very good chance of stripping the threads. As for stripping engine bolts, the Honda factory used to install fasteners so tight that a normal person couldn't get them out without an"impact driver". A tool that I never even saw before the Japanese invasion. The lock washers were very effective where used, and the Phipips style bolts were incapable of delivering enough torque to breat them loose without camming out - the Hammer Impact driver solved that problem I believe I've read that the "Phillips" headed screws in a Japanese motorcycle are not actually "Phillips" but some Japanese standard that didn't quite match the screwdrivers we had in the U.S. Which probably didn't help either :-) That's the *whole* cause - just grind a tiny bit off the point of the screwdriver bit and it fits just right. The bits on my Impact driver fit perfectly without grinding. Note I said Philips "style" (I know, I mis-spelled it) bolts. Some of the early Jap stuff didn't use Cadmium plated bolts either - W10 imploded and I had to start over with a replacement news account. So back to old name. The japs were the worst of the lot for cadmium plated fasteners. The very toxic cadmium rubs off on your hands and is cumulative in the body - it causes such acute osteoporosis; you can end up fracturing ribs just by coughing. In the UK - nickel plated fasteners became fashionable about the 80s. They didn't do much about cadmium plated chassis in electronic equipment until RoHS. AFAIK: cadmium batteries are exempt from RoHS - but they've more or less vanished from the shops anyway. Cadmium is very nasty - wash your hands after handling anything plated with it! from Cadmium, A Health Hazard Surface Treatment C. Rehm ESG Einsteinstr. 174 D-81675 Munich, Germany An object containing cadmium is not especially injurious to health on its own. No risk is involved simply by touching it. A potential hazard occurs, however, when such objects are processed and high temperatures are generated. Cadmium plating rubs off on your hands whenever you handle cadmium plated parts and assemblies. Many years ago they even used it on electronic component leads to prevent oxidation - they used more aggressive fluxes in those days. Welding cad plated sheet steel is particularly dangerous - the cadmium is vapourised and becomes airborne. Usually the osteoporosis takes decades to start crippling the sufferer - but I've heard of a repair technician dropping dead after a couple of years from fumes using low melting point cadmium based solder. The specific mode of death wasn't announced. The Japanese know all about it, they discharged industrial effluent containing cadmium into heavily fished costal waters. They even have a name for the disease - itai itai byo. apparently its the noise sufferers make in their death throes. As I mentioned previously - bones become so weak and brittle, you can fracture ribs just by coughing. |
#28
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torque wrench issues
"Andre Jute" wrote in message ... Man, you're beyond ignorant: On Saturday, April 29, 2017 at 7:53:18 PM UTC+1, Ian Field wrote: The japs were the worst of the lot for cadmium plated fasteners. The very toxic cadmium rubs off on your hands and is cumulative in the body - it causes such acute osteoporosis; you can end up fracturing ribs just by coughing. Cadmium is not toxic. I work with it every day in watercolor and oil paint, and so do a million other artists, restorers, museum workers, mechanics, etc. Not immediately no - it takes decades for the osteoporosis to cripple you. Its cumulative in the body (mostly the liver & kidneys AFAICR) - so stopping right now probably won't help you much. Using a chelating agent like zinc might reduce the effects a bit - but it also takes iron out of the blood, which will cause you a whole load of other problems. |
#29
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torque wrench issues
On 4/30/2017 12:01 PM, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message ... On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 19:53:16 +0100, "Ian Field" wrote: wrote in message ... On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 20:16:22 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "John B Slocomb" wrote in message ... On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 22:17:14 -0400, wrote: On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 07:42:21 +0700, John B Slocomb wrote: On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 19:51:41 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: wrote in message ... On Sun, 23 Apr 2017 22:06:05 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "Emanuel Berg" wrote in message ... I finally got the 1/2" torque wrench, 28-210 Nm, not even made in China, but in Taiwan! Eh... I guess it depends who you ask if that is China or not It has a locking screw, a torque setting handle, a scale (Nm as well as "FT-LB", some English unit I take it?) - it also as a locking lever on top just like an ordinary ratchet, so it can go both ways, clockwise and anti-clockwise. The torques only work in the clockwise direction. So if the locking (ratchet) lever is set the other way, it is just a ratchet, right? Well, in the manual it says: Note: Never use the torque wrench to undo nuts, bolts or other fasteners as this will damage the ratchet mechanism and the calibrated settings. So how does that add up? Is it only OK to use the anti-clockwise pull to insert things, which would require a left thread? (And it would be just a long shaft, with the torque not in effect.) As for me, I don't plan using it for anything but as a torque, because I have other, less expensive ratchets and spanners to do the everyday stuff. But of course, I'd like to know what it means. It also came with a certificate with data on the calibration and in the manual it says it should be recalibrated at least every 12 months. Calibration is irrelevant if you don't follow the rules to the letter. Most torque settings I've seen were for dry threads - any stray lubricant and you might even twist the end off at the correct torque. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com Torque specs vary considerably by application. Some are given as clean and dry, some are given as lubricated with oil - some are given cold, and others hot. That said, I personally have never run across a torque spec that was so "close to the edge" that torqing with "stray lubrication" would cause immediate failure of the bolt by twisting off the end. However, that said, most of my wrenching has not been on bicycles but on automobiles and agricultural and construction equipment which may be slightly more "overengineered" or "overbuilt" Bicycles tend to have less things you can twist the end off. Its common on motorcycles, but mainly pulling the threads out of alloy castings. Its pretty rare to strip an engine down so far that you can put the castings in degreasing plant - torquing the engine case bolts with oil left in the holes is a very good chance of stripping the threads. As for stripping engine bolts, the Honda factory used to install fasteners so tight that a normal person couldn't get them out without an"impact driver". A tool that I never even saw before the Japanese invasion. The lock washers were very effective where used, and the Phipips style bolts were incapable of delivering enough torque to breat them loose without camming out - the Hammer Impact driver solved that problem I believe I've read that the "Phillips" headed screws in a Japanese motorcycle are not actually "Phillips" but some Japanese standard that didn't quite match the screwdrivers we had in the U.S. Which probably didn't help either :-) That's the *whole* cause - just grind a tiny bit off the point of the screwdriver bit and it fits just right. The bits on my Impact driver fit perfectly without grinding. Note I said Philips "style" (I know, I mis-spelled it) bolts. Some of the early Jap stuff didn't use Cadmium plated bolts either - W10 imploded and I had to start over with a replacement news account. So back to old name. The japs were the worst of the lot for cadmium plated fasteners. The very toxic cadmium rubs off on your hands and is cumulative in the body - it causes such acute osteoporosis; you can end up fracturing ribs just by coughing. In the UK - nickel plated fasteners became fashionable about the 80s. They didn't do much about cadmium plated chassis in electronic equipment until RoHS. AFAIK: cadmium batteries are exempt from RoHS - but they've more or less vanished from the shops anyway. Cadmium is very nasty - wash your hands after handling anything plated with it! from Cadmium, A Health Hazard Surface Treatment C. Rehm ESG Einsteinstr. 174 D-81675 Munich, Germany An object containing cadmium is not especially injurious to health on its own. No risk is involved simply by touching it. A potential hazard occurs, however, when such objects are processed and high temperatures are generated. Cadmium plating rubs off on your hands whenever you handle cadmium plated parts and assemblies. Many years ago they even used it on electronic component leads to prevent oxidation - they used more aggressive fluxes in those days. Welding cad plated sheet steel is particularly dangerous - the cadmium is vapourised and becomes airborne. Usually the osteoporosis takes decades to start crippling the sufferer - but I've heard of a repair technician dropping dead after a couple of years from fumes using low melting point cadmium based solder. The specific mode of death wasn't announced. The Japanese know all about it, they discharged industrial effluent containing cadmium into heavily fished costal waters. They even have a name for the disease - itai itai byo. apparently its the noise sufferers make in their death throes. As I mentioned previously - bones become so weak and brittle, you can fracture ribs just by coughing. Well then avoid it as you wish. Many of us recognize the difference between metals and reactive metallic organic compounds. Zinc rich tablets are popular for symptoms of herpes simplex and yet no one welds galvanize steel a second time. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#30
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torque wrench issues
"AMuzi" wrote in message news On 4/30/2017 12:01 PM, Ian Field wrote: wrote in message ... On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 19:53:16 +0100, "Ian Field" wrote: wrote in message ... On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 20:16:22 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "John B Slocomb" wrote in message ... On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 22:17:14 -0400, wrote: On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 07:42:21 +0700, John B Slocomb wrote: On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 19:51:41 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: wrote in message ... On Sun, 23 Apr 2017 22:06:05 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote: "Emanuel Berg" wrote in message ... I finally got the 1/2" torque wrench, 28-210 Nm, not even made in China, but in Taiwan! Eh... I guess it depends who you ask if that is China or not It has a locking screw, a torque setting handle, a scale (Nm as well as "FT-LB", some English unit I take it?) - it also as a locking lever on top just like an ordinary ratchet, so it can go both ways, clockwise and anti-clockwise. The torques only work in the clockwise direction. So if the locking (ratchet) lever is set the other way, it is just a ratchet, right? Well, in the manual it says: Note: Never use the torque wrench to undo nuts, bolts or other fasteners as this will damage the ratchet mechanism and the calibrated settings. So how does that add up? Is it only OK to use the anti-clockwise pull to insert things, which would require a left thread? (And it would be just a long shaft, with the torque not in effect.) As for me, I don't plan using it for anything but as a torque, because I have other, less expensive ratchets and spanners to do the everyday stuff. But of course, I'd like to know what it means. It also came with a certificate with data on the calibration and in the manual it says it should be recalibrated at least every 12 months. Calibration is irrelevant if you don't follow the rules to the letter. Most torque settings I've seen were for dry threads - any stray lubricant and you might even twist the end off at the correct torque. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com Torque specs vary considerably by application. Some are given as clean and dry, some are given as lubricated with oil - some are given cold, and others hot. That said, I personally have never run across a torque spec that was so "close to the edge" that torqing with "stray lubrication" would cause immediate failure of the bolt by twisting off the end. However, that said, most of my wrenching has not been on bicycles but on automobiles and agricultural and construction equipment which may be slightly more "overengineered" or "overbuilt" Bicycles tend to have less things you can twist the end off. Its common on motorcycles, but mainly pulling the threads out of alloy castings. Its pretty rare to strip an engine down so far that you can put the castings in degreasing plant - torquing the engine case bolts with oil left in the holes is a very good chance of stripping the threads. As for stripping engine bolts, the Honda factory used to install fasteners so tight that a normal person couldn't get them out without an"impact driver". A tool that I never even saw before the Japanese invasion. The lock washers were very effective where used, and the Phipips style bolts were incapable of delivering enough torque to breat them loose without camming out - the Hammer Impact driver solved that problem I believe I've read that the "Phillips" headed screws in a Japanese motorcycle are not actually "Phillips" but some Japanese standard that didn't quite match the screwdrivers we had in the U.S. Which probably didn't help either :-) That's the *whole* cause - just grind a tiny bit off the point of the screwdriver bit and it fits just right. The bits on my Impact driver fit perfectly without grinding. Note I said Philips "style" (I know, I mis-spelled it) bolts. Some of the early Jap stuff didn't use Cadmium plated bolts either - W10 imploded and I had to start over with a replacement news account. So back to old name. The japs were the worst of the lot for cadmium plated fasteners. The very toxic cadmium rubs off on your hands and is cumulative in the body - it causes such acute osteoporosis; you can end up fracturing ribs just by coughing. In the UK - nickel plated fasteners became fashionable about the 80s. They didn't do much about cadmium plated chassis in electronic equipment until RoHS. AFAIK: cadmium batteries are exempt from RoHS - but they've more or less vanished from the shops anyway. Cadmium is very nasty - wash your hands after handling anything plated with it! from Cadmium, A Health Hazard Surface Treatment C. Rehm ESG Einsteinstr. 174 D-81675 Munich, Germany An object containing cadmium is not especially injurious to health on its own. No risk is involved simply by touching it. A potential hazard occurs, however, when such objects are processed and high temperatures are generated. Cadmium plating rubs off on your hands whenever you handle cadmium plated parts and assemblies. Many years ago they even used it on electronic component leads to prevent oxidation - they used more aggressive fluxes in those days. Welding cad plated sheet steel is particularly dangerous - the cadmium is vapourised and becomes airborne. Usually the osteoporosis takes decades to start crippling the sufferer - but I've heard of a repair technician dropping dead after a couple of years from fumes using low melting point cadmium based solder. The specific mode of death wasn't announced. The Japanese know all about it, they discharged industrial effluent containing cadmium into heavily fished costal waters. They even have a name for the disease - itai itai byo. apparently its the noise sufferers make in their death throes. As I mentioned previously - bones become so weak and brittle, you can fracture ribs just by coughing. Well then avoid it as you wish. Many of us recognize the difference between metals and reactive metallic organic compounds. Zinc rich tablets are popular for symptoms of herpes simplex and yet no one welds galvanize steel a second time. Zinc can't be that toxic - its a usual ingredient of baby powder. Never heard of any warnings against welding zinc passivated steel - only know of cadmium plating being very dangerous. |
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