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#11
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Building wheels on tubeless rims using tube
On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote: I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are DT Swiss 411 or the 460 H and Son Archetype if I can find them Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23 HED Kinlin Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside? Deacon Mark I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes). Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks. Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its demise). Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23 or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke. PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet. I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not (i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either. Same for the A23. Mark J. Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with? Deacon Mark Yes they do. And American made. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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#12
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Building wheels on tubeless rims using tube
On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 3:51:11 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote: I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are DT Swiss 411 or the 460 H and Son Archetype if I can find them Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23 HED Kinlin Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside? Deacon Mark I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes). Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks. Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its demise). Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23 or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke. PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet. I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not (i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either. Same for the A23. Mark J. Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with? Deacon Mark Yes they do. And American made. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 While I am at it the wheel I want to replace is Kinlin xc 279. They have about 10k miles on them and the rear wheel has a hop now. I de-tensioned the spokes. I manage to get the wheel centered and laterally pretty true certainly within in .5 mm. The tension on the drive side is pretty consistent on Park tool at all 23-25. The non-drive side is a bit more out in place going farther and 20% off in places. The problem is the hop is back in the wheel.. To correct it my guess is now way to really do this the rim is just not able. Seems to me that radial truing is the hardest and if off too much compared to the rest I should get new rim? Correct? The bike actually rides fine with it I just don't like the hop I can feel it riding. Deacon Mark |
#13
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Building wheels on tubeless rims using tube
On 9/8/2020 5:47 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 3:51:11 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote: On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote: I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are DT Swiss 411 or the 460 H and Son Archetype if I can find them Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23 HED Kinlin Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside? Deacon Mark I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes). Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks. Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its demise). Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23 or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke. PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet. I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not (i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either. Same for the A23. Mark J. Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with? Deacon Mark Yes they do. And American made. While I am at it the wheel I want to replace is Kinlin xc 279. They have about 10k miles on them and the rear wheel has a hop now. I de-tensioned the spokes. I manage to get the wheel centered and laterally pretty true certainly within in .5 mm. The tension on the drive side is pretty consistent on Park tool at all 23-25. The non-drive side is a bit more out in place going farther and 20% off in places. The problem is the hop is back in the wheel. To correct it my guess is now way to really do this the rim is just not able. Seems to me that radial truing is the hardest and if off too much compared to the rest I should get new rim? Correct? The bike actually rides fine with it I just don't like the hop I can feel it riding. Deacon Mark From your description, I would rebuild with new rim and spokes. Other arguments could be made but I'd rebuild. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#14
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Building wheels on tubeless rims using tube
On Tue, 8 Sep 2020 15:47:16 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 3:51:11 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote: On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote: I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are DT Swiss 411 or the 460 H and Son Archetype if I can find them Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23 HED Kinlin Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside? Deacon Mark I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes). Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks. Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its demise). Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23 or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke. PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet. I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not (i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either. Same for the A23. Mark J. Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with? Deacon Mark Yes they do. And American made. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 While I am at it the wheel I want to replace is Kinlin xc 279. They have about 10k miles on them and the rear wheel has a hop now. I de-tensioned the spokes. I manage to get the wheel centered and laterally pretty true certainly within in .5 mm. The tension on the drive side is pretty consistent on Park tool at all 23-25. The non-drive side is a bit more out in place going farther and 20% off in places. The problem is the hop is back in the wheel. To correct it my guess is now way to really do this the rim is just not able. Seems to me that radial truing is the hardest and if off too much compared to the rest I should get new rim? Correct? The bike actually rides fine with it I just don't like the hop I can feel it riding. Deacon Mark You say that the wheel is "laterally pretty true" but has a "hop". It sounds like it is not radially true??? -- Cheers, John B. |
#15
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Building wheels on tubeless rims using tube
On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 6:03:53 PM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 8 Sep 2020 15:47:16 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 3:51:11 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote: On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote: I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are DT Swiss 411 or the 460 H and Son Archetype if I can find them Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23 HED Kinlin Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside? Deacon Mark I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes). Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks. Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its demise). Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23 or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke. PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet. I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not (i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either. Same for the A23. Mark J. Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with? Deacon Mark Yes they do. And American made. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 While I am at it the wheel I want to replace is Kinlin xc 279. They have about 10k miles on them and the rear wheel has a hop now. I de-tensioned the spokes. I manage to get the wheel centered and laterally pretty true certainly within in .5 mm. The tension on the drive side is pretty consistent on Park tool at all 23-25. The non-drive side is a bit more out in place going farther and 20% off in places. The problem is the hop is back in the wheel. To correct it my guess is now way to really do this the rim is just not able. Seems to me that radial truing is the hardest and if off too much compared to the rest I should get new rim? Correct? The bike actually rides fine with it I just don't like the hop I can feel it riding. Deacon Mark You say that the wheel is "laterally pretty true" but has a "hop". It sounds like it is not radially true??? -- Cheers, John B. I had a pretty good feeling we are going to have to give up Andrew. This one I can do you hit the spot. Deacon Mark |
#16
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Building wheels on tubeless rims using tube
On 9/8/2020 3:47 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 3:51:11 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote: On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote: I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are DT Swiss 411 or the 460 H and Son Archetype if I can find them Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23 HED Kinlin Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside? Deacon Mark I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes). Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks. Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its demise). Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23 or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke. PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet. I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not (i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either. Same for the A23. Mark J. Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with? Deacon Mark Yes they do. And American made. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 While I am at it the wheel I want to replace is Kinlin xc 279. They have about 10k miles on them and the rear wheel has a hop now. I de-tensioned the spokes. I manage to get the wheel centered and laterally pretty true certainly within in .5 mm. The tension on the drive side is pretty consistent on Park tool at all 23-25. The non-drive side is a bit more out in place going farther and 20% off in places. The problem is the hop is back in the wheel. To correct it my guess is now way to really do this the rim is just not able. Seems to me that radial truing is the hardest and if off too much compared to the rest I should get new rim? Correct? The bike actually rides fine with it I just don't like the hop I can feel it riding. Deacon Mark My experience has been that a hop you can feel while riding is often a deformed/bent rim. The truing experience you describe also suggests bent rim. Except for emergency kludges, bent rim means time for a new rim. It happens, enjoy building the new one. Make sure to get tension high enough, but 23-25 Park reading on 2mm spokes is plenty high. Mark J. |
#17
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Building wheels on tubeless rims using tube
On 9/8/2020 7:01 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 9/8/2020 3:47 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 3:51:11 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote: On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote: I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are DT Swiss 411 or the 460 H and Son Archetype if I can find them Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23 HED Kinlin Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside? Deacon Mark I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes). Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks. Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its demise). Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23 or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke. PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet. I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not (i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either. Same for the A23. Mark J. Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with? Deacon Mark Yes they do. And American made. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 While I am at it the wheel I want to replace is Kinlin xc 279. They have about 10k miles on them and the rear wheel has a hop now. I de-tensioned the spokes. I manage to get the wheel centered and laterally pretty true certainly within in .5 mm. The tension on the drive side is pretty consistent on Park tool at all 23-25. The non-drive side is a bit more out in place going farther and 20% off in places. The problem is the hop is back in the wheel. To correct it my guess is now way to really do this the rim is just not able. Seems to me that radial truing is the hardest and if off too much compared to the rest I should get new rim? Correct? The bike actually rides fine with it I just don't like the hop I can feel it riding. Deacon Mark My experience has been that a hop you can feel while riding is often a deformed/bent rim. The truing experience you describe also suggests bent rim. Except for emergency kludges, bent rim means time for a new rim. It happens, enjoy building the new one. Make sure to get tension high enough, but 23-25 Park reading on 2mm spokes is plenty high. Mark J. At the upper end of that yes with 2mm straight spokes. Velocity recommends 120nm (+/-10). '23' on the Park scale is only 95nm. An undertensioned wheel is not as strong nor as durable. Lubricate your brass nipples and use a 3-1/2 side contact wrench; 120nm is not at all difficult. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#18
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Building wheels on tubeless rims using tube
On 9/8/2020 8:27 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/8/2020 7:01 PM, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 3:47 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 3:51:11 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote: On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote: I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are DT Swiss 411 or the 460 H and Son Archetype if I can find them Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23 HED Kinlin Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside? Deacon Mark I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes). Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks. Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its demise). Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23 or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke. PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet. I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not (i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either. Same for the A23. Mark J. Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with? Deacon Mark Yes they do. And American made. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 While I am at it the wheel I want to replace is Kinlin xc 279. They have about 10k miles on them and the rear wheel has a hop now. I de-tensioned the spokes. I manage to get the wheel centered and laterally pretty true certainly within in .5 mm. The tension on the drive side is pretty consistent on Park tool at all 23-25. The non-drive side is a bit more out in place going farther and 20% off in places. The problem is the hop is back in the wheel. To correct it my guess is now way to really do this the rim is just not able. Seems to me that radial truing is the hardest and if off too much compared to the rest I should get new rim? Correct? The bike actually rides fine with it I just don't like the hop I can feel it riding. Deacon Mark My experience has been that a hop you can feel while riding is often a deformed/bent rim.Â* The truing experience you describe also suggests bent rim.Â* Except for emergency kludges, bent rim means time for a new rim.Â* It happens, enjoy building the new one.Â* Make sure to get tension high enough, but 23-25 Park reading on 2mm spokes is plenty high. Mark J. At the upper end of that yes with 2mm straight spokes. Velocity recommends 120nm (+/-10). '23' on the Park scale is only 95nm. You mean 95 kgf, I think. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#19
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Building wheels on tubeless rims using tube
On 9/8/2020 7:58 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/8/2020 8:27 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:01 PM, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 3:47 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 3:51:11 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote: On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote: I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are DT Swiss 411 or the 460 H and Son Archetype if I can find them Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23 HED Kinlin Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside? Deacon Mark I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes). Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks. Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its demise). Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23 or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke. PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet. I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not (i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either. Same for the A23. Mark J. Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with? Deacon Mark Yes they do. And American made. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 While I am at it the wheel I want to replace is Kinlin xc 279. They have about 10k miles on them and the rear wheel has a hop now. I de-tensioned the spokes. I manage to get the wheel centered and laterally pretty true certainly within in .5 mm. The tension on the drive side is pretty consistent on Park tool at all 23-25. The non-drive side is a bit more out in place going farther and 20% off in places. The problem is the hop is back in the wheel. To correct it my guess is now way to really do this the rim is just not able. Seems to me that radial truing is the hardest and if off too much compared to the rest I should get new rim? Correct? The bike actually rides fine with it I just don't like the hop I can feel it riding. Deacon Mark My experience has been that a hop you can feel while riding is often a deformed/bent rim. The truing experience you describe also suggests bent rim. Except for emergency kludges, bent rim means time for a new rim. It happens, enjoy building the new one. Make sure to get tension high enough, but 23-25 Park reading on 2mm spokes is plenty high. Mark J. At the upper end of that yes with 2mm straight spokes. Velocity recommends 120nm (+/-10). '23' on the Park scale is only 95nm. You mean 95 kgf, I think. d'oh. Thank you -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#20
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Building wheels on tubeless rims using tube
On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 8:28:27 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/8/2020 7:58 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 9/8/2020 8:27 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:01 PM, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 3:47 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 3:51:11 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote: On 9/8/2020 2:15 PM, wrote: On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 11:46:38 AM UTC-5, Mark J. wrote: On 9/8/2020 7:30 AM, wrote: I want to build a set of wheels and I don't use tubeless and have clinchers. Seems most now are tubeless and some have holes to drive spokes through the rim and others don't. Anyone know which ones can have regular spoke holes and still be tubeless? My rim choices are DT Swiss 411 or the 460 H and Son Archetype if I can find them Possibly Velocity..........what do you like A23 HED Kinlin Basically I want to build a decent 32 spoke rim with Shimano Ultegra hubs radial front 3 cross rear. Not much in stock in most places. Finally how hard is it to build a wheel on tubeless with no spoke holes on outside? Deacon Mark I got 10,000 miles on a Velocity A23 "OC" rim with 24 spokes, 170lb/77kg rider. 24 spokes was pushing it, so I'm reasonably happy with that performance (rim died of cracks at the nipple holes). Replaced with the DT 411 "OC" rim, still 24 spokes. DT "requires" and supplies nipple washers with the rim, use 'em, it might hold off the cracks. Both built well and held their true (well, the A23 was stable up to its demise). Don't recall if you've told us your weight, but I expect either the A23 or DT 411 would give many many years of service in 32 spoke. PS - I haven't tried tubeless tires yet. I can't find if the DT rim is supposed to be "tubeless ready" or not (i.e. can be run tubeless with the correct rim liner), but it works fine with clinchers & tubes, and tires don't fit unreasonably tight either. Same for the A23. Mark J. Do Velocity a23 in the OC rear and front have traditional spoke holes to work with? Deacon Mark Yes they do. And American made. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 While I am at it the wheel I want to replace is Kinlin xc 279. They have about 10k miles on them and the rear wheel has a hop now. I de-tensioned the spokes. I manage to get the wheel centered and laterally pretty true certainly within in .5 mm. The tension on the drive side is pretty consistent on Park tool at all 23-25. The non-drive side is a bit more out in place going farther and 20% off in places. The problem is the hop is back in the wheel. To correct it my guess is now way to really do this the rim is just not able. Seems to me that radial truing is the hardest and if off too much compared to the rest I should get new rim? Correct? The bike actually rides fine with it I just don't like the hop I can feel it riding. Deacon Mark My experience has been that a hop you can feel while riding is often a deformed/bent rim. The truing experience you describe also suggests bent rim. Except for emergency kludges, bent rim means time for a new rim. It happens, enjoy building the new one. Make sure to get tension high enough, but 23-25 Park reading on 2mm spokes is plenty high. Mark J. At the upper end of that yes with 2mm straight spokes. Velocity recommends 120nm (+/-10). '23' on the Park scale is only 95nm. You mean 95 kgf, I think. d'oh. Thank you -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Ok so I can rebuild the wheel and the spokes are good and the nipples. I cannot get a Kinlin xc 279 rim anymore. The ERD is 583 so checking around I see a DT Swiss 585 rim is cheap at $45 and the ERM is 282. If i rebuild using this rim will it probably work? What to the Las Vegas odds makers give me on the success of 1mm off. Could go with a dtswiss 520 rim at 584 but these are more money and pinned joint not welded. Deacon Mark |
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