Difficulty shifting to granny gear

On my hardtail, the big and middle ring are fairly close, with the
granny being a _major_ bail-out gear that doesn’t see a ton of use.
It’s always been a bit picky about making the jump down (specifically
under hard load, which I am aware is a no-no), but recently has become
far more so. It works fine in the stand, but when actually riding not
so much. I try not to shift the front under load, but occasionally it
has to happen, and as of late it’s guaranteed not to work under load,
say climbing. Even when spinning without resistance preparing for the
hill, I often need to shift the rear as well as the front to get it to
drop to the granny. This wasn’t always the case.

I’ve read this is a common problem when the middle and big ring are a
huge step apart, but in my case those two are fairly close and the
granny is the huge step.

It happens regardless of what gear I’m on in the back, of the larger 3
or 4 cogs. I don’t use the small/small combo’s. All other shifting
works just fine. Some “trim” is sometimes required, but it’s been
like that as long as I can recall, it’s somewhat second nature to
overshift a bit past the click and then release once I feel the
shift. Most of my MTBs with grip shift have been like this, as far as
I can recall.

If it matters, it’s an 8 speed setup with grip shift & XTR
deraileurs.

Any suggestions on where I should start to fix this? I’m hoping to
take a crack at it tonight if there’s time after finishing up my
buddy’s new (used) road bike. Cable tension doesn’t seem like it
would make a big deal, as it defaults to the small ring without
tension on the cable.

I could try moving the inner stop, but worry about dumping the chain.
Come to think of it, reckless shifting resulted in chain drop back
when I never had this problem, and has not happened in a long time.
Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge
too far?

I’m open to suggestions before I start tweaking things.

Thanks,

Dan

On Oct 15, 11:51 am, " wrote:

Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge
too far?

Yes, that is most likely. It's also possible the derailer (proper
spelling) is dirty enough not to move through its full range. Make
sure it's clean and properly lubed. Another possibility, if it's an
old derailer clamped to frame and not attached to braze on, is that it
is not positioned properly and needs to be turned slightly and
retightened at the correct angle of attack.

On Oct 15, 1:51*pm, " wrote:
On my hardtail, the big and middle ring are fairly close, with the
granny being a _major_ bail-out gear that doesn’t see a ton of use.
It’s always been a bit picky about making the jump down (specifically
under hard load, which I am aware is a no-no), but recently has become
far more so. *It works fine in the stand, but when actually riding not
so much. *I try not to shift the front under load, but occasionally it
has to happen, and as of late it’s guaranteed not to work under load,
say climbing. *Even when spinning without resistance preparing for the
hill, I often need to shift the rear as well as the front to get it to
drop to the granny. *This wasn’t always the case.

I’ve read this is a common problem when the middle and big ring are a
huge step apart, but in my case those two are fairly close and the
granny is the huge step.

It happens regardless of what gear I’m on in the back, of the larger 3
or 4 cogs. *I don’t use the small/small combo’s. *All other shifting
works just fine. *Some “trim” is sometimes required, but it’s been
like that as long as I can recall, it’s somewhat second nature to
overshift a bit past the click and then release once I feel the
shift. *Most of my MTBs with grip shift have been like this, as far as
I can recall.

If it matters, it’s an 8 speed setup with grip shift & XTR
deraileurs.

Any suggestions on where I should start to fix this? *I’m hoping to
take a crack at it tonight if there’s time after finishing up my
buddy’s new (used) road bike. *Cable tension doesn’t seem like it
would make a big deal, as it defaults to the small ring without
tension on the cable.

I could try moving the inner stop, but worry about dumping the chain.
Come to think of it, reckless shifting resulted in chain drop back
when I never had this problem, and has not happened in a long time.
Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge
too far?

I’m open to suggestions before I start tweaking things.

I've had that happen when:
* my chain was overdue for a cleaning
* my cable was a bit sticky/iced up
* my rear fender interfered just slightly with my front derailer
* my inner stop was overly tight
* my anti-chaindump device was misadjusted (on a previous bike.)

I generally only ever use the granny when I'm touring, so I go through
this every summer. With a bit of work, it always shifts like a Porsche
(for about 2 weeks. Then it's a VW squareback sedan again.)

On Oct 15, 2:02*pm, wrote:
On Oct 15, 11:51 am, " wrote:

Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge
too far?

Yes, that is most likely. It's also possible the derailer (proper
spelling) is dirty enough not to move through its full range. Make
sure it's clean and properly lubed. Another possibility, *if it's an
old derailer clamped to frame and not attached to braze on, is that it
is not positioned properly and needs to be turned slightly and
retightened at the correct angle of attack.

Sounds good. The chain actually is muddy ATM from my last ride (had
to leave the bike @ a friends, so it didn't get cleaned yet). I think
this was ongoing before the bike got dirty though. It is a clamp-on
derailler, and I beat this bike something fierce, so it could have
been dislodged.

So I'm thinking:
Step 1: Clean & lube chain & derailler (since I need to do this
anyway).
Step 2: Check stop screw.
Step 3: Check and if necessary adjust angle of attack.

Sound good?

Also, the correct angle of attack is relatively parallel to the chain,
so that it doesn't rub anything unless using gear combo's you
shouldn't be using anyway, and is very close to the chian when on the
small chainring and big cog, correct?

On Oct 15, 2:05*pm, Brian Huntley wrote:
On Oct 15, 1:51*pm, " wrote:





On my hardtail, the big and middle ring are fairly close, with the
granny being a _major_ bail-out gear that doesn’t see a ton of use.
It’s always been a bit picky about making the jump down (specifically
under hard load, which I am aware is a no-no), but recently has become
far more so. *It works fine in the stand, but when actually riding not
so much. *I try not to shift the front under load, but occasionally it
has to happen, and as of late it’s guaranteed not to work under load,
say climbing. *Even when spinning without resistance preparing for the
hill, I often need to shift the rear as well as the front to get it to
drop to the granny. *This wasn’t always the case.

I’ve read this is a common problem when the middle and big ring are a
huge step apart, but in my case those two are fairly close and the
granny is the huge step.

It happens regardless of what gear I’m on in the back, of the larger 3
or 4 cogs. *I don’t use the small/small combo’s. *All other shifting
works just fine. *Some “trim” is sometimes required, but it’s been
like that as long as I can recall, it’s somewhat second nature to
overshift a bit past the click and then release once I feel the
shift. *Most of my MTBs with grip shift have been like this, as far as
I can recall.

If it matters, it’s an 8 speed setup with grip shift & XTR
deraileurs.

Any suggestions on where I should start to fix this? *I’m hoping to
take a crack at it tonight if there’s time after finishing up my
buddy’s new (used) road bike. *Cable tension doesn’t seem like it
would make a big deal, as it defaults to the small ring without
tension on the cable.

I could try moving the inner stop, but worry about dumping the chain.
Come to think of it, reckless shifting resulted in chain drop back
when I never had this problem, and has not happened in a long time.
Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge
too far?

I’m open to suggestions before I start tweaking things.

I've had that happen when:
* my chain was overdue for a cleaning
* my cable was a bit sticky/iced up
* my rear fender interfered just slightly with my front derailer
* my inner stop was overly tight
* my anti-chaindump device was misadjusted (on a previous bike.)

I generally only ever use the granny when I'm touring, so I go through
this every summer. With a bit of work, it always shifts like a Porsche
(for about 2 weeks. Then it's a VW squareback sedan again.)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Add to list: Clean/lube cable. Thanks.

On Oct 15, 12:20 pm, " wrote:
On Oct 15, 2:02 pm, wrote:

On Oct 15, 11:51 am, " wrote:

Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge
too far?

Yes, that is most likely. It's also possible the derailer (proper
spelling) is dirty enough not to move through its full range. Make
sure it's clean and properly lubed. Another possibility, if it's an
old derailer clamped to frame and not attached to braze on, is that it
is not positioned properly and needs to be turned slightly and
retightened at the correct angle of attack.

Sounds good. The chain actually is muddy ATM from my last ride (had
to leave the bike @ a friends, so it didn't get cleaned yet). I think
this was ongoing before the bike got dirty though. It is a clamp-on
derailler, and I beat this bike something fierce, so it could have
been dislodged.

So I'm thinking:
Step 1: Clean & lube chain & derailler (since I need to do this
anyway).
Step 2: Check stop screw.
Step 3: Check and if necessary adjust angle of attack.

Sound good?

Also, the correct angle of attack is relatively parallel to the chain,
so that it doesn't rub anything unless using gear combo's you
shouldn't be using anyway, and is very close to the chian when on the
small chainring and big cog, correct?


My bet is Step 1 and 2, or possibly just step 1 alone will solve your
problem. Good suggestion to lube cable especially if it travels under
BB. If all else fails give the d a slight twist adjustment to increase
pressure on chain in appropriate direction, and hope this won't mess
up ability to shift in other direction.

On Oct 15, 11:21*am, " wrote:
On Oct 15, 2:05*pm, Brian Huntley wrote:





On Oct 15, 1:51*pm, " wrote:

On my hardtail, the big and middle ring are fairly close, with the
granny being a _major_ bail-out gear that doesn’t see a ton of use.
It’s always been a bit picky about making the jump down (specifically
under hard load, which I am aware is a no-no), but recently has become
far more so. *It works fine in the stand, but when actually riding not
so much. *I try not to shift the front under load, but occasionally it
has to happen, and as of late it’s guaranteed not to work under load,
say climbing. *Even when spinning without resistance preparing for the
hill, I often need to shift the rear as well as the front to get it to
drop to the granny. *This wasn’t always the case.

I’ve read this is a common problem when the middle and big ring are a
huge step apart, but in my case those two are fairly close and the
granny is the huge step.

It happens regardless of what gear I’m on in the back, of the larger 3
or 4 cogs. *I don’t use the small/small combo’s. *All other shifting
works just fine. *Some “trim” is sometimes required, but it’s been
like that as long as I can recall, it’s somewhat second nature to
overshift a bit past the click and then release once I feel the
shift. *Most of my MTBs with grip shift have been like this, as far as
I can recall.

If it matters, it’s an 8 speed setup with grip shift & XTR
deraileurs.

Any suggestions on where I should start to fix this? *I’m hoping to
take a crack at it tonight if there’s time after finishing up my
buddy’s new (used) road bike. *Cable tension doesn’t seem like it
would make a big deal, as it defaults to the small ring without
tension on the cable.

I could try moving the inner stop, but worry about dumping the chain.
Come to think of it, reckless shifting resulted in chain drop back
when I never had this problem, and has not happened in a long time.
Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge
too far?

I’m open to suggestions before I start tweaking things.

I've had that happen when:
* my chain was overdue for a cleaning
* my cable was a bit sticky/iced up
* my rear fender interfered just slightly with my front derailer
* my inner stop was overly tight
* my anti-chaindump device was misadjusted (on a previous bike.)

I generally only ever use the granny when I'm touring, so I go through
this every summer. With a bit of work, it always shifts like a Porsche
(for about 2 weeks. Then it's a VW squareback sedan again.)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Add to list: *Clean/lube cable. *Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd add a third-eye to your seat-tube as well.
This lets you set the shifting slightly on the loose-side and not have
to worry about chain-suck, etc. You still want to dial shifting in,
but it helps in these types of situations.
Really cheap, light, nifty, investment, IMHO.

-pete