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#1
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Difficulty shifting to granny gear
On my hardtail, the big and middle ring are fairly close, with the
granny being a _major_ bail-out gear that doesn’t see a ton of use. It’s always been a bit picky about making the jump down (specifically under hard load, which I am aware is a no-no), but recently has become far more so. It works fine in the stand, but when actually riding not so much. I try not to shift the front under load, but occasionally it has to happen, and as of late it’s guaranteed not to work under load, say climbing. Even when spinning without resistance preparing for the hill, I often need to shift the rear as well as the front to get it to drop to the granny. This wasn’t always the case. I’ve read this is a common problem when the middle and big ring are a huge step apart, but in my case those two are fairly close and the granny is the huge step. It happens regardless of what gear I’m on in the back, of the larger 3 or 4 cogs. I don’t use the small/small combo’s. All other shifting works just fine. Some “trim” is sometimes required, but it’s been like that as long as I can recall, it’s somewhat second nature to overshift a bit past the click and then release once I feel the shift. Most of my MTBs with grip shift have been like this, as far as I can recall. If it matters, it’s an 8 speed setup with grip shift & XTR deraileurs. Any suggestions on where I should start to fix this? I’m hoping to take a crack at it tonight if there’s time after finishing up my buddy’s new (used) road bike. Cable tension doesn’t seem like it would make a big deal, as it defaults to the small ring without tension on the cable. I could try moving the inner stop, but worry about dumping the chain. Come to think of it, reckless shifting resulted in chain drop back when I never had this problem, and has not happened in a long time. Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge too far? I’m open to suggestions before I start tweaking things. Thanks, Dan |
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#2
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Difficulty shifting to granny gear
On Oct 15, 11:51 am, " wrote:
Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge too far? Yes, that is most likely. It's also possible the derailer (proper spelling) is dirty enough not to move through its full range. Make sure it's clean and properly lubed. Another possibility, if it's an old derailer clamped to frame and not attached to braze on, is that it is not positioned properly and needs to be turned slightly and retightened at the correct angle of attack. |
#3
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Difficulty shifting to granny gear
On Oct 15, 1:51*pm, " wrote:
On my hardtail, the big and middle ring are fairly close, with the granny being a _major_ bail-out gear that doesn’t see a ton of use. It’s always been a bit picky about making the jump down (specifically under hard load, which I am aware is a no-no), but recently has become far more so. *It works fine in the stand, but when actually riding not so much. *I try not to shift the front under load, but occasionally it has to happen, and as of late it’s guaranteed not to work under load, say climbing. *Even when spinning without resistance preparing for the hill, I often need to shift the rear as well as the front to get it to drop to the granny. *This wasn’t always the case. I’ve read this is a common problem when the middle and big ring are a huge step apart, but in my case those two are fairly close and the granny is the huge step. It happens regardless of what gear I’m on in the back, of the larger 3 or 4 cogs. *I don’t use the small/small combo’s. *All other shifting works just fine. *Some “trim” is sometimes required, but it’s been like that as long as I can recall, it’s somewhat second nature to overshift a bit past the click and then release once I feel the shift. *Most of my MTBs with grip shift have been like this, as far as I can recall. If it matters, it’s an 8 speed setup with grip shift & XTR deraileurs. Any suggestions on where I should start to fix this? *I’m hoping to take a crack at it tonight if there’s time after finishing up my buddy’s new (used) road bike. *Cable tension doesn’t seem like it would make a big deal, as it defaults to the small ring without tension on the cable. I could try moving the inner stop, but worry about dumping the chain. Come to think of it, reckless shifting resulted in chain drop back when I never had this problem, and has not happened in a long time. Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge too far? I’m open to suggestions before I start tweaking things. I've had that happen when: * my chain was overdue for a cleaning * my cable was a bit sticky/iced up * my rear fender interfered just slightly with my front derailer * my inner stop was overly tight * my anti-chaindump device was misadjusted (on a previous bike.) I generally only ever use the granny when I'm touring, so I go through this every summer. With a bit of work, it always shifts like a Porsche (for about 2 weeks. Then it's a VW squareback sedan again.) |
#4
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Difficulty shifting to granny gear
On Oct 15, 2:02*pm, wrote:
On Oct 15, 11:51 am, " wrote: Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge too far? Yes, that is most likely. It's also possible the derailer (proper spelling) is dirty enough not to move through its full range. Make sure it's clean and properly lubed. Another possibility, *if it's an old derailer clamped to frame and not attached to braze on, is that it is not positioned properly and needs to be turned slightly and retightened at the correct angle of attack. Sounds good. The chain actually is muddy ATM from my last ride (had to leave the bike @ a friends, so it didn't get cleaned yet). I think this was ongoing before the bike got dirty though. It is a clamp-on derailler, and I beat this bike something fierce, so it could have been dislodged. So I'm thinking: Step 1: Clean & lube chain & derailler (since I need to do this anyway). Step 2: Check stop screw. Step 3: Check and if necessary adjust angle of attack. Sound good? Also, the correct angle of attack is relatively parallel to the chain, so that it doesn't rub anything unless using gear combo's you shouldn't be using anyway, and is very close to the chian when on the small chainring and big cog, correct? |
#5
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Difficulty shifting to granny gear
On Oct 15, 2:05*pm, Brian Huntley wrote:
On Oct 15, 1:51*pm, " wrote: On my hardtail, the big and middle ring are fairly close, with the granny being a _major_ bail-out gear that doesn’t see a ton of use. It’s always been a bit picky about making the jump down (specifically under hard load, which I am aware is a no-no), but recently has become far more so. *It works fine in the stand, but when actually riding not so much. *I try not to shift the front under load, but occasionally it has to happen, and as of late it’s guaranteed not to work under load, say climbing. *Even when spinning without resistance preparing for the hill, I often need to shift the rear as well as the front to get it to drop to the granny. *This wasn’t always the case. I’ve read this is a common problem when the middle and big ring are a huge step apart, but in my case those two are fairly close and the granny is the huge step. It happens regardless of what gear I’m on in the back, of the larger 3 or 4 cogs. *I don’t use the small/small combo’s. *All other shifting works just fine. *Some “trim” is sometimes required, but it’s been like that as long as I can recall, it’s somewhat second nature to overshift a bit past the click and then release once I feel the shift. *Most of my MTBs with grip shift have been like this, as far as I can recall. If it matters, it’s an 8 speed setup with grip shift & XTR deraileurs. Any suggestions on where I should start to fix this? *I’m hoping to take a crack at it tonight if there’s time after finishing up my buddy’s new (used) road bike. *Cable tension doesn’t seem like it would make a big deal, as it defaults to the small ring without tension on the cable. I could try moving the inner stop, but worry about dumping the chain. Come to think of it, reckless shifting resulted in chain drop back when I never had this problem, and has not happened in a long time. Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge too far? I’m open to suggestions before I start tweaking things. I've had that happen when: * my chain was overdue for a cleaning * my cable was a bit sticky/iced up * my rear fender interfered just slightly with my front derailer * my inner stop was overly tight * my anti-chaindump device was misadjusted (on a previous bike.) I generally only ever use the granny when I'm touring, so I go through this every summer. With a bit of work, it always shifts like a Porsche (for about 2 weeks. Then it's a VW squareback sedan again.)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Add to list: Clean/lube cable. Thanks. |
#6
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Difficulty shifting to granny gear
On Oct 15, 12:20 pm, " wrote:
On Oct 15, 2:02 pm, wrote: On Oct 15, 11:51 am, " wrote: Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge too far? Yes, that is most likely. It's also possible the derailer (proper spelling) is dirty enough not to move through its full range. Make sure it's clean and properly lubed. Another possibility, if it's an old derailer clamped to frame and not attached to braze on, is that it is not positioned properly and needs to be turned slightly and retightened at the correct angle of attack. Sounds good. The chain actually is muddy ATM from my last ride (had to leave the bike @ a friends, so it didn't get cleaned yet). I think this was ongoing before the bike got dirty though. It is a clamp-on derailler, and I beat this bike something fierce, so it could have been dislodged. So I'm thinking: Step 1: Clean & lube chain & derailler (since I need to do this anyway). Step 2: Check stop screw. Step 3: Check and if necessary adjust angle of attack. Sound good? Also, the correct angle of attack is relatively parallel to the chain, so that it doesn't rub anything unless using gear combo's you shouldn't be using anyway, and is very close to the chian when on the small chainring and big cog, correct? My bet is Step 1 and 2, or possibly just step 1 alone will solve your problem. Good suggestion to lube cable especially if it travels under BB. If all else fails give the d a slight twist adjustment to increase pressure on chain in appropriate direction, and hope this won't mess up ability to shift in other direction. |
#7
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Difficulty shifting to granny gear
On Oct 15, 11:21*am, " wrote:
On Oct 15, 2:05*pm, Brian Huntley wrote: On Oct 15, 1:51*pm, " wrote: On my hardtail, the big and middle ring are fairly close, with the granny being a _major_ bail-out gear that doesn’t see a ton of use. It’s always been a bit picky about making the jump down (specifically under hard load, which I am aware is a no-no), but recently has become far more so. *It works fine in the stand, but when actually riding not so much. *I try not to shift the front under load, but occasionally it has to happen, and as of late it’s guaranteed not to work under load, say climbing. *Even when spinning without resistance preparing for the hill, I often need to shift the rear as well as the front to get it to drop to the granny. *This wasn’t always the case. I’ve read this is a common problem when the middle and big ring are a huge step apart, but in my case those two are fairly close and the granny is the huge step. It happens regardless of what gear I’m on in the back, of the larger 3 or 4 cogs. *I don’t use the small/small combo’s. *All other shifting works just fine. *Some “trim” is sometimes required, but it’s been like that as long as I can recall, it’s somewhat second nature to overshift a bit past the click and then release once I feel the shift. *Most of my MTBs with grip shift have been like this, as far as I can recall. If it matters, it’s an 8 speed setup with grip shift & XTR deraileurs. Any suggestions on where I should start to fix this? *I’m hoping to take a crack at it tonight if there’s time after finishing up my buddy’s new (used) road bike. *Cable tension doesn’t seem like it would make a big deal, as it defaults to the small ring without tension on the cable. I could try moving the inner stop, but worry about dumping the chain. Come to think of it, reckless shifting resulted in chain drop back when I never had this problem, and has not happened in a long time. Perhaps I adjusted the stops to prevent chain dump and went a smidge too far? I’m open to suggestions before I start tweaking things. I've had that happen when: * my chain was overdue for a cleaning * my cable was a bit sticky/iced up * my rear fender interfered just slightly with my front derailer * my inner stop was overly tight * my anti-chaindump device was misadjusted (on a previous bike.) I generally only ever use the granny when I'm touring, so I go through this every summer. With a bit of work, it always shifts like a Porsche (for about 2 weeks. Then it's a VW squareback sedan again.)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Add to list: *Clean/lube cable. *Thanks.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'd add a third-eye to your seat-tube as well. This lets you set the shifting slightly on the loose-side and not have to worry about chain-suck, etc. You still want to dial shifting in, but it helps in these types of situations. Really cheap, light, nifty, investment, IMHO. -pete |
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