Cleaning Glue off of Tire Sidewalls?

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Greg Hall writes:

If your humor requires symbols and tea leaves to discover, it is
missing its goal. With the amount of standard bicycle beliefs you
put forth on occasions, some of the quips seem consistent with the
rest of the things you post. If you get misunderstood, maybe you
should review your writing rather than push it off to reader error.
Aging tubulars falls in the same category as belief in tread
patterns (directional no less) for road tires. I don't believe all
the supporters of that subject are joking either.

Regardless of the tread pattern, I always mount my tubulars with the
decals on the drive side.

That's interesting because I put the label of clinchers on the left
side of rear wheels so that when changing tubes for a flat, I can see
where on the tire the perforation occurred. I mount rear tires from
the left side to avoid involvement with grimy sprockets.

What is the reason for your choice?



I am sure Greg can answer for himself but one possible reason occurs to me;
bicycles are always admired, photographed, etc. from the drive side. Maybe
he is proud of his tire choice and wants to show it off. This is of course,
irrelevant for anyone only interested in technical matters and hard riding
but it is harmless. Personally, I don't pay any attention to the label when
I mount tires (I use tubulars) and some of my wheels have the labels on one
side and some on the other.

Yuji Sakuma

wrote:
Greg Hall writes:


If your humor requires symbols and tea leaves to discover, it is
missing its goal. With the amount of standard bicycle beliefs you
put forth on occasions, some of the quips seem consistent with the
rest of the things you post. If you get misunderstood, maybe you
should review your writing rather than push it off to reader error.
Aging tubulars falls in the same category as belief in tread
patterns (directional no less) for road tires. I don't believe all
the supporters of that subject are joking either.


Regardless of the tread pattern, I always mount my tubulars with the
decals on the drive side.


That's interesting because I put the label of clinchers on the left
side of rear wheels so that when changing tubes for a flat, I can see
where on the tire the perforation occurred. I mount rear tires from
the left side to avoid involvement with grimy sprockets.

Strange. I might be daft but I must ask, how is the direction of tire
mounting affected by the sprockets? Regardless of which side from which
I've mounted tires, the sprockets have never been involved.


What is the reason for your choice?



Robin Hubert

Robin Hubert writes:

If your humor requires symbols and tea leaves to discover, it is
missing its goal. With the amount of standard bicycle beliefs
you put forth on occasions, some of the quips seem consistent
with the rest of the things you post. If you get misunderstood,
maybe you should review your writing rather than push it off to
reader error. Aging tubulars falls in the same category as
belief in tread patterns (directional no less) for road tires. I
don't believe all the supporters of that subject are joking
either.

Regardless of the tread pattern, I always mount my tubulars with
the decals on the drive side.

That's interesting because I put the label of clinchers on the left
side of rear wheels so that when changing tubes for a flat, I can
see where on the tire the perforation occurred. I mount rear tires
from the left side to avoid involvement with grimy sprockets.

Strange. I might be daft but I must ask, how is the direction of
tire mounting affected by the sprockets? Regardless of which side
from which I've mounted tires, the sprockets have never been
involved.

If your tires and tubes naturally levitate away from the rear wheel,
then they won't touch the sprockets and holding the wheel by that side
will never allow contact with the gear cluster. However, with most
bicycles, dropping the tire or tube across the side of the wheel is a
possibility that occurs.

The same goes for wheeling your bicycle while walking, if you have the
bicycle to your right, chances are you can get some chain goo on your
leg.

What is the reason for your choice?

wrote:
What is the reason for your choice?



Aesthetics for one. Force of habit another.

Greg Hall

Robin Hubert writes:

wrote:

That's interesting because I put the label of clinchers on the left
side of rear wheels so that when changing tubes for a flat, I can see
where on the tire the perforation occurred. I mount rear tires from
the left side to avoid involvement with grimy sprockets.

Strange. I might be daft but I must ask, how is the direction of tire
mounting affected by the sprockets? Regardless of which side from which
I've mounted tires, the sprockets have never been involved.

I think what Jobst means is that he lays his bike down on the drive
side. I don't do this because it tends to chew up the derailleur
mounting bolt, etc.

I always mount the tire label at the valve. It doesn't matter if the
label is on the left or the right hand side of the tire if its mounted
at the valve. after changing tubes you can always locate a sidewall
or tread cut if you take this precaution.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

In article ,
(Donald Gillies) wrote:

Robin Hubert writes:

wrote:

That's interesting because I put the label of clinchers on the left
side of rear wheels so that when changing tubes for a flat, I can see
where on the tire the perforation occurred. I mount rear tires from
the left side to avoid involvement with grimy sprockets.

Strange. I might be daft but I must ask, how is the direction of tire
mounting affected by the sprockets? Regardless of which side from which
I've mounted tires, the sprockets have never been involved.

I think what Jobst means is that he lays his bike down on the drive
side. I don't do this because it tends to chew up the derailleur
mounting bolt, etc.

I always mount the tire label at the valve. It doesn't matter if the
label is on the left or the right hand side of the tire if its mounted
at the valve. after changing tubes you can always locate a sidewall
or tread cut if you take this precaution.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

Now that we are down to this level of detail. I put the tire
label next to the rim label on the left side of the bicycle.
The label (rim or tire) is now antipodal to the tube valve making
the tube valve easy to find. The puncture in the tube now
determines the location in the tire to search for the sharp
intrusion (or vice versa).

--
Michael Press

On 05/25/2005 09:15 PM, in article ,
" wrote:


The same goes for wheeling your bicycle while walking, if you have the
bicycle to your right, chances are you can get some chain goo on your
leg.


Your bikes have a left-hand drive?

When I have my bike to the right, I have a bicycle frame between me and the
chainset, which does wonders in preventing chain goo from getting on my
legs.



--
Steven L. Sheffield
stevens at veloworks dot com
bellum pax est libertas servitus est ignoratio vis est
ess ay ell tea ell ay kay ee sea eye tee why you ti ay aitch
aitch tee tea pea colon [for word] slash [four ward] slash double-you
double-yew double-ewe dot veloworks dot com [foreword] slash

Roger Marquis wrote:


The rim layer is critical, the tire layer is optional. Bike shops
probably have to do both, just for lawyers, but I don't want to have
to use a screwdriver just to get a tire off the rim.

Some porus base tapes don't need a dry layer of glue applied to them
beforehand. The Deda Olimpico (my favorite racing tire) is one of
those. Just put a light layer on the rim, let it set for 20 to 40
minutes, and mount the tire.

--
Roger Marquis
http://www.roble.net/marquis/

Insanity!!

Really tho, one light layer onto the rim and none on the tire=tire roll.

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
Some porus base tapes don't need a dry layer of glue applied to them
beforehand. The Deda Olimpico (my favorite racing tire) is one of
those. Just put a light layer on the rim, let it set for 20 to 40
minutes, and mount the tire.


Insanity!!

Really tho, one light layer onto the rim and none on the tire=tire roll.

In ~32 years of riding tubulars daily (having switched to and from
clinchers 3 times) I've yet to pre-glue a base tape. Only once in
that time have I had a problem with adhesion and that was with a
Clement Criterium Cotton which had a thick layer of slick latex over
its base tape.

The only reason pre-glueing base tape may be prudent, and then only
with certain porus/unsealed base tapes, is so the solvent fumes from
drying rim glue doesn't compromise the tire-to-base tape adhesion.
It has nothing to do with tire-to-rim adhesion.

If you are paranoid, and do pre-glue base tapes, be sure to use a
_very_ thin layer. Too much glue is worse than too little. It's
like solder in that you only need enough to fill the gap.

--
Roger Marquis
http://www.roble.net/marquis/

Roger Marquis writes:

Some porus base tapes don't need a dry layer of glue applied to
them beforehand. The Deda Olimpico (my favorite racing tire) is
one of those. Just put a light layer on the rim, let it set for
20 to 40 minutes, and mount the tire.

Insanity!!

Really tho, one light layer onto the rim and none on the tire=tire
roll.

In ~32 years of riding tubulars daily (having switched to and from
clinchers 3 times) I've yet to pre-glue a base tape. Only once in
that time have I had a problem with adhesion and that was with a
Clement Criterium Cotton which had a thick layer of slick latex over
its base tape.

OK, so your an old fart and still don't know what kind of base tape
you are looking at.

The only reason pre-glueing base tape may be prudent, and then only
with certain porus/unsealed base tapes, is so the solvent fumes from
drying rim glue doesn't compromise the tire-to-base tape adhesion.
It has nothing to do with tire-to-rim adhesion.

aka "porous"

"porus/unsealed base tapes" are ones on which hard glue or shellac can
be used. These adhesives do not hold on coated base tapes but then
few people use "Tipo Pista" hard glue. Just the same, tire
manufacturers give the user the option by offering bare cloth base tapes.

If you are paranoid, and do pre-glue base tapes, be sure to use a
_very_ thin layer. Too much glue is worse than too little. It's
like solder in that you only need enough to fill the gap.

"Very" is a useless word in this and most contexts because it is ill
defined and dilutes the adverb/adjective it modifies. Get with
quantifiable dimensions.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/m...-tubulars.html