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#31
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500 Lumen, 3C, Adjustable Beam, 3 Mode Cree LED Flashlight 2for $24.99 at Costco
On 2/27/2013 7:13 AM, Jay Beattie wrote:
That would not be practical for me since I would be switching between disc and caliper brake bikes -- and riding my commute wheel on a racing bike wouldn't be much fun anyway. The bottom line is that you really need a dynamo hub wheel for each bicycle, but moving the headlight from bike to bike could be made easy with appropriate connectors and clamps. It's not just different types of 700C wheels for commute bikes and racing bikes, it's 26" or 29er wheels or even 20" or 16" wheels (for folders). But once you have a dynamo wheel for each bike, if you're reasonably mechanically inclined you can have a very good LED dynamo light for each bicycle at a cost of about $12 per light (no strobe function though). That doesn't address the issue of the relative low light output of dynamo lights versus battery powered lights of course. I like being able to grab a light, snap it onto a holder on the handlebars, and go, not starting to unbolt and bolt things and move wheels around. Sure you can get could at the swapping and get it down to 5 minutes or so, but grabbing a battery powered light and putting it on the bike takes only seconds. |
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#32
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500 Lumen, 3C, Adjustable Beam, 3 Mode Cree LED Flashlight 2 for$24.99 at Costco
On Feb 27, 4:33*pm, James wrote:
On 27/02/13 15:47, Frank Krygowski wrote: On Feb 26, 3:57 pm, *wrote: It takes me all of a couple (2) minutes to undo one bolt, remove my dynamo, the wire and light from my bicycle. *It would take a few (3) minutes more to put it on to another bicycle. If you had a dynamo front hub I suspect it would be a similar time, or possibly less. *It would depend on the type of light mount I guess. I haven't bothered to make my current headlights or dynamos easily removable or switchable from bike to bike, but it can certainly be done. *I've done similar things with older headlights, fenders, bike bags, etc. *It generally requires some mechanical cleverness, plus investing the time to fabricate mounts or do other minor customization. *You have to want to do it badly enough that you'll invest the time, hoping to eventually save time during repeated installations& *removals. Time saving was not really the issue. *Jay said: I also like lights that can be switched from bike to bike -- and mostly retired after daylight savings time, which kind of disqualifies dynamo lights, although I could keep a dynamo on a dedicated commuter. I was giving him an idea that using a dynamo and light does not mean a dedicated bike for night riding, that you _can_ swap from bike to bike if you want, and it's not all that difficult. I understand. My point was: for those interested, spending time to make the change easier can save time down the road. It's much like (say) spending money on insulation to save heating bills. I tend to fix little things that irritate me on my bike, even if it requires some customization. For example, back when I used to remove fenders for club rides and time trials, I spent some time making sure they could be taken off or installed in just a couple minutes. Other folks might not mind spending fifteen minutes or more on that task. For me, I leave the dynamo and light on my bike 99% of the time. *I remove before a race, and reinstall after. *It costs me 5-6 minutes. But by removing generators and lamps, you run the risk of being out later than you thought, and realizing that you didn't reinstall it this day, or on this bike. *I greatly prefer having a light on each bike. *(Well, except one, right now.) The bikes are ready to go, day or night. You see, that doesn't affect me. *How does it go? *Oh yes, I remember, something like, "Yet another negligible problem in bicycling." *;-) I like that. Can I use it? - Frank Krygowski |
#33
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500 Lumen, 3C, Adjustable Beam, 3 Mode Cree LED Flashlight 2 for$24.99 at Costco
On Feb 27, 10:13*am, Jay Beattie wrote:
On Feb 26, 8:47*pm, Frank Krygowski wrote: On Feb 26, 3:57*pm, James wrote: It takes me all of a couple (2) minutes to undo one bolt, remove my dynamo, the wire and light from my bicycle. *It would take a few (3) minutes more to put it on to another bicycle. If you had a dynamo front hub I suspect it would be a similar time, or possibly less. *It would depend on the type of light mount I guess. I haven't bothered to make my current headlights or dynamos easily removable or switchable from bike to bike, but it can certainly be done. *I've done similar things with older headlights, fenders, bike bags, etc. *It generally requires some mechanical cleverness, plus investing the time to fabricate mounts or do other minor customization. *You have to want to do it badly enough that you'll invest the time, hoping to eventually save time during repeated installations & removals. That would not be practical for me since I would be switching between disc and caliper brake bikes -- and riding my commute wheel on a racing bike wouldn't be much fun anyway. Well, once again, hub generators are not the only game in town, despite the claims of some. Most of my bikes use other generator types, either bottle or roller. If they didn't work well, I wouldn't use them. As for providing enough light, I "need" as much light as I can get. My night vision isn't what it used to be, and my current 750 lumen Niterider is just O.K. -- and it is a well made light, although some could argue that it has unnecessary upward light spew, but that actually comes in handy in some places. I'll repeat my recommendation that you check out a modern, road- designed LED headlamp. There must be _someone_ in Portland using one! As I've described befo Back in the lead-acid halogen days, my best cycling friend got a good buy on what was supposed to be a fairly high power (10 Watt? 15 Watt? I forget) rechargeable battery light. We compared it, side by side, with my 2.4 Watt generator-powered light. No contest - my light gave much better _usable_ light. His gave a useless fog. I saw the same thing with another club mate's dual rechargeable setup. And the Scharfian idea that a focused light is invisible to others is just false, as shown by every car headlamp. I know you can get a bright LED/dyno set-up if you pay enough, which I might be willing to do at some point, but I typically lose interest after daylight savings comes. *Unless something earth shattering hits the market, I'll probably just stick with my battery set up -- which sits on the back counter for a significant portion of the year. I understand. I'm quite happily typing this on a minimal Linux netbook, rather than a fancy tablet. Sometimes good enough is just fine. And yes, some tasks really are better served with battery lights. Your off-road excursions may qualify, if they're beyond "stand light" range. But I do hate myths being used by some to claim generators are always super-expensive and inadequate. There are millions of counterexamples proving otherwise. - Frank Krygowski |
#34
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500 Lumen, 3C, Adjustable Beam, 3 Mode Cree LED Flashlight 2 for$24.99 at Costco
On Feb 27, 12:03*pm, SMS wrote:
A lot depends on your velocity. For the types of commutes in my area, and my night vision, 750 lumens is certainly adequate. The spousal unit complained when I put a slightly smaller light on her bike that was only 500 lumens... I bet she too has never tried a modern, German-standard LED headlamp. Right? The light mentioned in the subject above might work for her because the beam is adjustable. I tried it last night (walking) and it seemed about as good as her present light. Based on your posts here, the amount you've spent on Chinese-made discount flashlights could have bought B&M LED lights for your entire family! The Super-Nova E3 Triple looks like it might do the job for a dynamo light at 800 lumens, but it's $300, just for the light. By the time you get a new wheel with a hub dynamo, you're at a price that not many people will pay for lighting. Also, Peter White warns against turning on this headlight if you're in motion, as there can be a surge that destroys the light. Wonderful, a $300 light with no protection against something that a rider is often likely to do! However the E3 triple finally brings a sensible beam to dynamo lights. I expect that the 800 lumens is only achieved at quite a high speed, since the generally accepted maximum lumens per watt is 100, and a 6V dynamo is rated at 3 watts. Dynamo Watt ratings are not maximums. They are based on use of a 12 Ohm resistive load, equivalent to a 3 Watt halogen bulb. If the dynamo sees a 24 Ohm resistive load, it will produce 6 Watts. It's a common trick. In practice, almost all bike dynamos operate as (approximately) constant current devices, putting out between 0.5 and 0.6 Amps, except at very low speeds. Not sure where to find actual power ratings of dynamos. There's an amusing article at http://www.bikequarterly.com/VBQgenerator.pdf where they have a graph of power measured in volts, LOL. Clearly the authors have no engineering background. :-) Yes, that was a mistake, one which (IIRC) they apologized for in a subsequent issue. OTOH, a certain web-based "world's greatest expert on bicycle lights" still has a table showing that increasing reflector size increases the lumen output of a bulb. LOL indeed! (For the non-engineers: "lumens" measures total light output in all directions. Larger reflectors don't change a bulb's lumen output; they just direct more of the lumens forward.) There's a test at http://www.myra-simon.com/bike/dynotest.html where the author understands that power is measured in watts, and the highest power they get is about 4.7W at 40km/h, but he hasn't tested any of the newer, higher-efficiency, hub dynamos. I seem to remember seeing something that 6W was possible on some 6V dynamos at high speed. When I was using halogen headlights, I was getting 12 volts, 6 Watts out of an ancient Soubitez roller dynamo (_not_ a hub dynamo) at about 13 mph. It doesn't require a hub unit, and it doesn't require high speed. There are also 12V/6W tire driven dynamos available, but AFAIK, no company has made a 12V/6W hub dynamo. Wrong. Almost all of them will do that. The only reason a bottle dynamo won't do it is that it's small roller diameter requires too much torque at that power output, and thus tends to slip. - Frank Krygowski |
#35
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500 Lumen, 3C, Adjustable Beam, 3 Mode Cree LED Flashlight 2for $24.99 at Costco
On 2/27/2013 1:33 PM, James wrote:
snip I was giving him an idea that using a dynamo and light does not mean a dedicated bike for night riding, that you _can_ swap from bike to bike if you want, and it's not all that difficult. Most cyclists with multiple bikes have different types of wheels and tires on each bike so it's much more involved than just swapping wheels. At a minimum it would likely be swapping wheels and changing the front tire, assuming the same diameter wheel, and assuming the width of the rim could accommodate the larger or smaller width tire. Swapping the headlight could be done rather quickly with the right set-up (perhaps thumb screws and/or wing nuts), but the real expense is in the hub dynamo wheel. For a dynamo headlight, things have gotten much better with the advent of 12V, 4-5W, MR16 LED lamps that work directly from a dynamo with no additional circuitry needed, and have a near ideal beam pattern (it's rather amusing that the $300 Super-Nova E3 is getting rave reviews because of the new beam that isn't just illuminating the patch of road directly ahead, but is also illuminating off to the sides, something that many of us have been patiently trying to explain the benefits of for many years). At least, due to the increasing efficiency of LEDs, decent dynamo powered headlights like the E3 are now available at all. For years (decades actually) dynamo headlights were essentially a joke with very narrow focused beams a necessity because of the need to focus the very limited light output directly ahead of the bicycle. Maybe okay for the Netherlands or Germany, but not a good choice for riding on unlit roads. I'm glad that dynamo light makers did not just decide to meet the minimum legal standards. Jeff is right about the danger of setting standards, but the problem with the German standard is that it wasn't set based on what is actually sufficient for night riding, it was set based on what was a reasonable amount of power that could be generated from a dynamo. If they had set the standard based on a reasonable amount of illumination the bicycle manufacturers would have went non-linear and complained that it was too expensive or impossible. You see this sort of complaining by automakers every time a new safety feature or fuel economy standard is mandated by the government. |
#36
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500 Lumen, 3C, Adjustable Beam, 3 Mode Cree LED Flashlight 2 for $24.99 at Costco
SMS wrote:
On 2/27/2013 1:33 PM, James wrote: snip I was giving him an idea that using a dynamo and light does not mean a dedicated bike for night riding, that you _can_ swap from bike to bike if you want, and it's not all that difficult. Most cyclists with multiple bikes have different types of wheels and tires on each bike so it's much more involved than just swapping wheels. At a minimum it would likely be swapping wheels and changing the front tire, assuming the same diameter wheel, and assuming the width of the rim could accommodate the larger or smaller width tire. ??? I have 10 bikes. 3 of them are equipped with a dynahub light system. When it is dark or getting dark I take one of those three bikes. Why do I want to ride my crossbike in the dark or my roadbikes? Let alone with other tires every other day? Well, everyone has an excuse not to use dynohub lightning. -- Lou |
#37
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500 Lumen, 3C, Adjustable Beam, 3 Mode Cree LED Flashlight 2for $24.99 at Costco
On 2/28/2013 10:17 AM, Lou Holtman wrote:
SMS wrote: On 2/27/2013 1:33 PM, James wrote: snip I was giving him an idea that using a dynamo and light does not mean a dedicated bike for night riding, that you _can_ swap from bike to bike if you want, and it's not all that difficult. Most cyclists with multiple bikes have different types of wheels and tires on each bike so it's much more involved than just swapping wheels. At a minimum it would likely be swapping wheels and changing the front tire, assuming the same diameter wheel, and assuming the width of the rim could accommodate the larger or smaller width tire. ??? I have 10 bikes. 3 of them are equipped with a dynahub light system. When it is dark or getting dark I take one of those three bikes. Why do I want to ride my crossbike in the dark or my roadbikes? Let alone with other tires every other day? Well, everyone has an excuse not to use dynohub lightning. Not me. We have five bikes in the fleet with dynamo lighting, with very good LED headlights. But that doesn't blind me to the reality that in some situations the dynamo lighting isn't sufficient. |
#38
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500 Lumen, 3C, Adjustable Beam, 3 Mode Cree LED Flashlight 2 for$24.99 at Costco
On Feb 27, 5:44*pm, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Feb 27, 4:33*pm, James wrote: On 27/02/13 15:47, Frank Krygowski wrote: On Feb 26, 3:57 pm, *wrote: It takes me all of a couple (2) minutes to undo one bolt, remove my dynamo, the wire and light from my bicycle. *It would take a few (3) minutes more to put it on to another bicycle. If you had a dynamo front hub I suspect it would be a similar time, or possibly less. *It would depend on the type of light mount I guess.. I haven't bothered to make my current headlights or dynamos easily removable or switchable from bike to bike, but it can certainly be done. *I've done similar things with older headlights, fenders, bike bags, etc. *It generally requires some mechanical cleverness, plus investing the time to fabricate mounts or do other minor customization. *You have to want to do it badly enough that you'll invest the time, hoping to eventually save time during repeated installations& *removals. Time saving was not really the issue. *Jay said: I also like lights that can be switched from bike to bike -- and mostly retired after daylight savings time, which kind of disqualifies dynamo lights, although I could keep a dynamo on a dedicated commuter. |
#39
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500 Lumen, 3C, Adjustable Beam, 3 Mode Cree LED Flashlight 2 for $24.99 at Costco
On 2013-02-28 18:34:41 +0000, SMS said:
On 2/28/2013 10:17 AM, Lou Holtman wrote: SMS wrote: On 2/27/2013 1:33 PM, James wrote: snip I was giving him an idea that using a dynamo and light does not mean a dedicated bike for night riding, that you _can_ swap from bike to bike if you want, and it's not all that difficult. Most cyclists with multiple bikes have different types of wheels and tires on each bike so it's much more involved than just swapping wheels. At a minimum it would likely be swapping wheels and changing the front tire, assuming the same diameter wheel, and assuming the width of the rim could accommodate the larger or smaller width tire. ??? I have 10 bikes. 3 of them are equipped with a dynahub light system. When it is dark or getting dark I take one of those three bikes. Why do I want to ride my crossbike in the dark or my roadbikes? Let alone with other tires every other day? Well, everyone has an excuse not to use dynohub lightning. Not me. We have five bikes in the fleet with dynamo lighting, with very good LED headlights. But that doesn't blind me to the reality that in some situations the dynamo lighting isn't sufficient. I know of no battery powered lights that give me the same amount of light than 2 of my dynohub frontlights for 3 hours without changing or recharging the batteries. So the only option for rides longer than 2 hours for me are my two dynohub frontlights. -- Lou |
#40
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500 Lumen, 3C, Adjustable Beam, 3 Mode Cree LED Flashlight 2for $24.99 at Costco
On 2/28/2013 11:27 AM, Lou Holtman wrote:
I know of no battery powered lights that give me the same amount of light than 2 of my dynohub frontlights for 3 hours without changing or recharging the batteries. So the only option for rides longer than 2 hours for me are my two dynohub frontlights. Just because you don't know of any doesn't mean that there aren't any. It's the only option for you solely because of your lack of knowledge, not because there are no other options. |
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