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#11
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Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
On Apr 16, 4:03 pm, wrote:
bfd wrote: Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again: http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting One thing I have noticed abt the Novara Randonee I bought was that at times the shifting isn't quite in alignment enough to be perfectly silent..... makes "meshing" noise as pedaling. I know of no way to quickly make that "micro" adjustment to eliminate that.... and it does irritate me. The gears aren't adjusted right. If you ever notice that, shouldn't take more than a minute at the side of the road to adjust with the barrel adjuster. However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting..... and when things were not quite aligned I could manually make that small adjustment so that it was. See my point? Not really. After the cables bed in, a bike should shift perfectly indefinitely. Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer available or desirable? tell me ok? It's available if you want it. Ultegra bar-end shifters are switchable to friction or index, best of both worlds. About $70. |
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#12
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Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
On Apr 16, 4:59 pm, wrote:
So maybe my question should be.... what OPTIONS do I HAVE for shifter and systems now days? Friction-only or indexing-optional shifters do still exist (as others have pointed out already), and many index-only shifters have some amount of trim, at least for the front derailleur. For the latter, you may have to stick with mid level and above lines (like Shimano's 10 speed 105 combo brake lever/shifters). |
#13
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Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
bfd wrote:
However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting..... and when things were not quite aligned I could manually make that small adjustment so that it was. Try adjusting the barrel adjuster behind the rear der. Turning it like 1/4 turn clockwise until the chain runs smoothly. How can I reach that while riding tho? |
#14
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Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
landotter wrote:
However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting..... and when things were not quite aligned I could manually make that small adjustment so that it was. See my point? Not really. After the cables bed in, a bike should shift perfectly indefinitely. OK Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer available or desirable? tell me ok? It's available if you want it. Ultegra bar-end shifters are switchable to friction or index, best of both worlds. About $70. Cool! |
#15
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Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
On Apr 16, 4:03 pm, wrote:
bfd wrote: Maybe they've been drinking (ok, reading) the kool-aid again: http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/shifting One thing I have noticed abt the Novara Randonee I bought was that at times the shifting isn't quite in alignment enough to be perfectly silent..... makes "meshing" noise as pedaling. I know of no way to quickly make that "micro" adjustment to eliminate that.... and it does irritate me. However.... back 15 years ago when I did have a bike and lost of riding, I remember friction shifting..... and when things were not quite aligned I could manually make that small adjustment so that it was. See my point? Maybe everything is index now? Friction no longer available or desirable? tell me ok? I had some problems with Randonee shifting - turned out that rear derailer was out of plane of the wheel (not sure how to describe it better). REI mechanic fixed it. REI says that you should bring bike back for adjustment after 100-200 miles when cable will stretch. As far index/friction shifters - I think that Surly LHT has an option to switch between the two - also it has bar-end shifters (one of the reason I did not like it but it may work for you). I still like my Randonee - but I think I should try to learn how to adjust derailers myself - it seems that without that knowledge I will be at REI quite often. |
#16
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Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
I recommend barcons with index shifting. I have a Suntour 7spd
Accushift setup, 135mm rear, the wheel is hardly dished and therefore quite stout. I use a KMC chain, Suntour der and freewheel, no problems in thousands of miles. They are revertable to friction, but so far haven't needed that. You should look at Sheldon Browns website, he has some recommendations which boil down to strong and reliable. BT |
#17
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Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
Ozark Bicycle wrote:
On Apr 16, 2:04 pm, wrote: What would you go for and why? I can understand wanting to use shifters with a friction *option* (e.g., DT shifters or barends) as a backup in case of difficulties whilst on a tour. But why, oh why, would anyone, save for a Hobbit, want to use a friction *only* shifter?? Friction only works better on the front, especially when the front derailer is in one's normal field of view, and non-standard size chainrings are used. The SRAM Grip-Shift with about 9 clicks is not too bad either, since it allows for easy "trimming". Three position only Rabidfire (sic) shifters are a pain for anything but standard ATB cranksets. -- Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia The weather is here, wish you were beautiful |
#18
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Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
On Apr 16, 12:28*pm, landotter wrote:
On Apr 16, 2:04*pm, wrote: What would you go for and why? Doesn't matter much. If I found an old Miyata in my size, I'd ride coast to coast happily on a 7spd freewheel with friction shifters. Or not. If I found some 7spd bar-ends I'd use those, and if I got bored in Missouri, I'd switch them to friction to have something to do. Alternately, if I got a really sweet deal on a new bike with brifters and a 9spd rear cluster--that'd work fine as well. More important is that the frame is right, I got good heel clearance, and the thing handles nice and stable, so I can take downhill naps. I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters -- and I much prefer my modern STI. And after all these years, STI has never crapped out in the middle of nowhere or anywhere. I have index bar ends on my commuter and don't like them because I have gotten so used to being able to shift while standing and climbing. If I were outfitting a touring bike, there is no question that it would use STI/ Ergo -- and if I were neurotic about it failing, then I would pack a two ounce DT shifter just in case. -- Jay Beattie. |
#19
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Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
In article
, Jay Beattie wrote: On Apr 16, 12:28*pm, landotter wrote: On Apr 16, 2:04*pm, wrote: What would you go for and why? Doesn't matter much. If I found an old Miyata in my size, I'd ride coast to coast happily on a 7spd freewheel with friction shifters. Or not. If I found some 7spd bar-ends I'd use those, and if I got bored in Missouri, I'd switch them to friction to have something to do. Alternately, if I got a really sweet deal on a new bike with brifters and a 9spd rear cluster--that'd work fine as well. More important is that the frame is right, I got good heel clearance, and the thing handles nice and stable, so I can take downhill naps. I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters -- and I much prefer my modern STI. And after all these years, STI has never crapped out in the middle of nowhere or anywhere. I have index bar ends on my commuter and don't like them because I have gotten so used to being able to shift while standing and climbing. If I were outfitting a touring bike, there is no question that it would use STI/ Ergo -- and if I were neurotic about it failing, then I would pack a two ounce DT shifter just in case. -- Jay Beattie. If I may make the contrary case, I enthusiastically race road bikes and MTBs with various indexed drivetrains (Campy and Shimano 9 on the road, XT 8-speed on the MTB). It's great. But my daily commute is committed on a very boring Miyata 210 tourer with a 5-speed rear cluster (14-26? 14-28? I have no idea) and a triple up front. It also gets mileage as my winter training bike (fenders). I don't really miss indexing on that bike. Experiments with other non-indexed bikes have suggested that friction-shifting a 7-speed cluster, even with Hyperglide teeth, is mildly tricky. I'd prefer to use a 6-speed cluster on a friction-shifting bike, though the Mega-7 freewheels might tip the balance in a particular application owing to their bail-out cog and nice internals. All things being equal, the shifting doesn't matter. On a dedicated tourer, I would opt for a skookum rear hub and axle (that seems to mean Deore-to-XT as a mainstream choice), then pick gears to match the application, then grab whatever shifter worked and was at hand. That's my long-winded way of saying that the shifting method on a tourer hardly matters (among likely means) and is largely a matter of taste. -- Ryan Cousineau http://www.wiredcola.com/ "My scenarios may give the impression I could be an excellent crook. Not true - I am a talented lawyer." - Sandy in rec.bicycles.racing |
#20
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Touring bikes: Index or friction shifting?
In article
, Jay Beattie wrote: I rode across the US on a bike with 5sp friction bar end shifters -- and I much prefer my modern STI. Tastes are different. I adopted STI in 1992 and then switched to Ergo because I didn't like STI's laterally moving brake lever. I used those through 2005 when I went back to downtube friction shifting on my bikes. I just like it better. It's nice there are options. |
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