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#22
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Tube cement, which brand is best?
On Saturday, December 1, 2018 at 6:10:18 PM UTC-5, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2018 07:33:33 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-30 09:01, wrote: On Thursday, November 29, 2018 at 12:50:52 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote: I've got a bunch of patch kits that contain yellow "Propatch" cement tubes. On Sunday I had to use a kit, as usual for another rider. We found the hole, sanded the tube, opened the li'l cement tube ... phuffff ... only air was left inside. It was inside an extra plastic wrap and all, didn't help. So we had to use my spare tube. Do you guys know a brand that is better and where a bunch of these little tubes could be bought sans patches? Not so much for me but for other riders because many reported similar problems. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ The cement and patch are designed to work with one another. There are chemicals on the patch that are activated by chemicals in the cement. Different manufacturers use different activators. You will get best results, if you don't mix manufacturers. I've found the Rema Tip-Top patches with their tubes of cold vulcanizing fluid to work extremely well. After recommendations in this NG I bought a larger pot with tube cement and with a dabbing tool mounted inside the lid. I have used that on various patches and it worked well. It's just way to large to carry along in a pannier. A growler of beer is fine but a can of tube cement is too large? cheers, John B. With all the stuff he carries in case he meets someone in one of many difficulties he probable doesn't have room for it. I'm surprised he doesn't need/use a trailer. Cheers |
#23
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Tube cement, which brand is best?
So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube? Pat
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#24
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Tube cement, which brand is best?
On 2018-12-02 05:37, patrick wrote:
So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube? Pat After opening, yes. For an unopened tube (top not punched) it could only be the fold seal at the bottom or imperfections in the metal. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#25
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Tube cement, which brand is best?
On 12/2/2018 8:37 AM, patrick wrote:
So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube? Pat Consensus? In this group?? Tubes are initially sealed at the top with molded-in metal caps - i.e. the bit that you poke to open with the outer edge of the plastic cap. So if a tube goes dry without being opened, I suspect it's leaked through the crimp, unless it's been battered in a bike bag and developed a tiny hole. But I must say, I can't remember having an unopened tube dry out. I think in almost all other cases, it's simply the cap not re-sealing well. If I had lots of problems with glue drying out, I might try putting a bit of aluminum foil over the opening before screwing the cap down tight, on the theory that the metal is less permeable than the plastic. But like most things discussed at length here, this just isn't a major problem for me. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#26
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Tube cement, which brand is best?
On 12/1/2018 5:10 PM, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2018 07:33:33 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-30 09:01, wrote: On Thursday, November 29, 2018 at 12:50:52 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote: I've got a bunch of patch kits that contain yellow "Propatch" cement tubes. On Sunday I had to use a kit, as usual for another rider. We found the hole, sanded the tube, opened the li'l cement tube ... phuffff ... only air was left inside. It was inside an extra plastic wrap and all, didn't help. So we had to use my spare tube. Do you guys know a brand that is better and where a bunch of these little tubes could be bought sans patches? Not so much for me but for other riders because many reported similar problems. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ The cement and patch are designed to work with one another. There are chemicals on the patch that are activated by chemicals in the cement. Different manufacturers use different activators. You will get best results, if you don't mix manufacturers. I've found the Rema Tip-Top patches with their tubes of cold vulcanizing fluid to work extremely well. After recommendations in this NG I bought a larger pot with tube cement and with a dabbing tool mounted inside the lid. I have used that on various patches and it worked well. It's just way to large to carry along in a pannier. A growler of beer is fine but a can of tube cement is too large? Priorities. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#27
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Tube cement, which brand is best?
On 12/2/18 5:23 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/2/2018 8:37 AM, patrick wrote: So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube?Â*Â*Â*Â* Pat Consensus? In this group?? Tubes are initially sealed at the top with molded-in metal caps - i.e. the bit that you poke to open with the outer edge of the plastic cap. So if a tube goes dry without being opened, I suspect it's leaked through the crimp, unless it's been battered in a bike bag and developed a tiny hole. But I must say, I can't remember having an unopened tube dry out. I think in almost all other cases, it's simply the cap not re-sealing well. If I had lots of problems with glue drying out, I might try putting a bit of aluminum foil over the opening before screwing the cap down tight, on the theory that the metal is less permeable than the plastic. But like most things discussed at length here, this just isn't a major problem for me. They never seem to last much over a year once opened ime. I buy small, arguably one use tubes now as the M+s are a *long* way between punctures. |
#28
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Tube cement, which brand is best?
On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 05:37:53 -0800 (PST), patrick
wrote: So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube? Pat I've had unused tubes empty themselves, with the top seal not punctured. The only other avenues of escape a 1. Through the plastic or aluminum tube (unlikely). 2. Through the seal at the bottom of the tube. (winner by default). The problem with the bottom seal theory is that I've tried to squeeze a brand new tube with all my strength and nothing comes out of the tube. I even tried it inside a plastic bag, in a bench vise, and the seal held (before the side of the tube blew out). I also left it with pressure applied from a pile of junk on top of the tube, and nothing came out. Either my $0.50/ea tubes are amazingly well sealed, or I'm doing something wrong. I'm willing to try this again, but it will need to wait about 2 weeks until I'm done with some medical issues and my traditional end of the year billing panic. For general amusement: MSDS for REMA Tip Top cold vulcanizing fluids show that they contains trichloroethylene: https://www.myerstiresupply.com/MyersTireSupply/media/myers-tire-supply/MSDS-pdfs/MSDS91100_01_02_Chm_Vulc_Fl.pdf http://yourtireshopsupply.com/download?pID=220&fID=2598 No clue if the Calif VoC ban applies. Nagging question: is "vulcanizing fluid" just plain old rubber cement? https://www.bikeforums.net/19907991-post1.html Is rubber cement in stationery stores the same as in tire patch kits? https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/35317/is-rubber-cement-in-stationery-stores-the-same-as-in-tire-patch-kits The "rubber cement" in the patch kit isn't a vulcanizing glue, it's a devulcanizing compound which breaks apart the little vulcanized polymer chains allowing for new cross-linking to happen. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#29
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Tube cement, which brand is best?
On Sunday, December 2, 2018 at 12:39:29 PM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 05:37:53 -0800 (PST), patrick wrote: So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube? Pat I've had unused tubes empty themselves, with the top seal not punctured. The only other avenues of escape a 1. Through the plastic or aluminum tube (unlikely). 2. Through the seal at the bottom of the tube. (winner by default). The problem with the bottom seal theory is that I've tried to squeeze a brand new tube with all my strength and nothing comes out of the tube. I even tried it inside a plastic bag, in a bench vise, and the seal held (before the side of the tube blew out). I also left it with pressure applied from a pile of junk on top of the tube, and nothing came out. Either my $0.50/ea tubes are amazingly well sealed, or I'm doing something wrong. I'm willing to try this again, but it will need to wait about 2 weeks until I'm done with some medical issues and my traditional end of the year billing panic. For general amusement: MSDS for REMA Tip Top cold vulcanizing fluids show that they contains trichloroethylene: https://www.myerstiresupply.com/MyersTireSupply/media/myers-tire-supply/MSDS-pdfs/MSDS91100_01_02_Chm_Vulc_Fl.pdf http://yourtireshopsupply.com/download?pID=220&fID=2598 No clue if the Calif VoC ban applies. Nagging question: is "vulcanizing fluid" just plain old rubber cement? https://www.bikeforums.net/19907991-post1.html Is rubber cement in stationery stores the same as in tire patch kits? https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/35317/is-rubber-cement-in-stationery-stores-the-same-as-in-tire-patch-kits The "rubber cement" in the patch kit isn't a vulcanizing glue, it's a devulcanizing compound which breaks apart the little vulcanized polymer chains allowing for new cross-linking to happen. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 Hey Jeff, medical issues FIRST. I think I'm over the hump with my flu. I think that it was the flu that caused my brother to have a heart attack the other evening. While in the ER, it was packed and the orderly told me that they were all there for flu. The shots missed again this year. Wrong variation. My brother will be having a stint put into his heart this afternoon. He may have to have a bypass but he is adamantly against full surgery so if that's necessary he won't be long on this world. |
#30
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Tube cement, which brand is best?
On Monday, December 3, 2018 at 7:35:11 AM UTC-8, Tosspot wrote:
On 12/2/18 5:23 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/2/2018 8:37 AM, patrick wrote: So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube?Â*Â*Â*Â* Pat Consensus? In this group?? Tubes are initially sealed at the top with molded-in metal caps - i.e. the bit that you poke to open with the outer edge of the plastic cap. So if a tube goes dry without being opened, I suspect it's leaked through the crimp, unless it's been battered in a bike bag and developed a tiny hole. But I must say, I can't remember having an unopened tube dry out. I think in almost all other cases, it's simply the cap not re-sealing well. If I had lots of problems with glue drying out, I might try putting a bit of aluminum foil over the opening before screwing the cap down tight, on the theory that the metal is less permeable than the plastic. But like most things discussed at length here, this just isn't a major problem for me. They never seem to last much over a year once opened ime. I buy small, arguably one use tubes now as the M+s are a *long* way between punctures. I like the self-sticking quick patches. Once you learn how to use them they work well. |
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