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#41
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
In article ,
Jasper Janssen wrote: On Mon, 01 Aug 2005 18:08:20 GMT, Ryan Cousineau wrote: Note again that all this references the _worst_ case scenario for a threadless setup: a close-cut fork with no spacers. Given a long enough uncut fork, a creative person could get a threadless stem up to whatever ridiculous height struck their fancy. Well, yes, but my point was that with threaded, you only need an outlandish quill, if you ever need to change the bar positioning in whatever weird way. That's *MUCH* freakin' easier than getting a new rigid fork with a very long uncut steerer, and for suspension forks it's pretty much a financial impossibility altogether. That's fine, as far as it goes, but it has to be weighed against the advantages of threadless stems, which are lower weight, a stronger joint, and no rust-seized quills. The strength issue became critical, according to Jobst, once mountain bike riders started overloading quill stems with a certain regularity. That's why those bikes adopted quill stems and 1-1/8" stems before road bikes. Against that, we have to balance the fact that, well, it's _possible_ to get a threadless steerer that is cut too short for comfort, but this is essentially an error in bike setup, or at worst a limitation in re-fitting a bike later (usually, in my guess, as a result of selling it). And you know, if you really need a special quill stem to get your bike set up, it will work on certain threadless bikes: http://sheldonbrown.org/thorn/index.html ....without even removing the old stem. And that's it. With the introduction of Sheldon's Thorn Raven dual-handlebar bike, I believe I have decisively won. Thanks, see you next thread . Share & Enjoy, -- Ryan Cousineau http://www.wiredcola.com/ "I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos |
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#42
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 19:19:05 -0700, Mark Hickey
wrote: As much as it pains me to disagree with JT, my road bike bars have always been more than 4" below the saddle as well. It's not THAT unusual. Though I don't doubt your bars are that low, I'm curious: how much time, or how often, do you ride in the drops? Email address works as is. |
#43
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
Patrick Lamb wrote:
On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 19:19:05 -0700, Mark Hickey wrote: As much as it pains me to disagree with JT, my road bike bars have always been more than 4" below the saddle as well. It's not THAT unusual. Though I don't doubt your bars are that low, I'm curious: how much time, or how often, do you ride in the drops? Quite a lot, actually. I'm very comfortable up in the ergo hooks for long, long periods of time. .... or was, at least. I've been riding an MTB primarily since a fairly significant cycling accident a couple years ago that caused some lingering upper back issues. I've "graduated" to a 'cross bike now as a stepping stone to getting back to riding my road bike for long periods. I set up my tandem with the bars "high" (by my standards at least), with a drop of a little over 3" (7.7cm). Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $795 ti frame |
#44
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
Per Mark Hickey:
Though I don't doubt your bars are that low, I'm curious: how much time, or how often, do you ride in the drops? Quite a lot, actually. I'm very comfortable up in the ergo hooks for long, long periods of time. I wonder if there could be a body proportion issue in bar height. Some months ago, I went face-to-face with a guy about my size (6'4") who was riding an MTB whose bars must've been six inches lower than the saddle. I run mine at saddle height or even an inch above - depending on how the diff is measured. Only had a couple seconds to assess the situation, but it was clear that he was having no problem looking from side-to-side and his neck didn't look contorted. When I run my bars even 3" below saddle height, the first thing I notice is that I can't see much of anything except straight ahead - and to do that, I have to crane my neck to the max and I'm *still" partially peering over the tops of my glasses. Maybe arm/trunk length is a factor? -- PeteCresswell |
#45
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per Mark Hickey: Though I don't doubt your bars are that low, I'm curious: how much time, or how often, do you ride in the drops? Quite a lot, actually. I'm very comfortable up in the ergo hooks for long, long periods of time. I wonder if there could be a body proportion issue in bar height. Some months ago, I went face-to-face with a guy about my size (6'4") who was riding an MTB whose bars must've been six inches lower than the saddle. I run mine at saddle height or even an inch above - depending on how the diff is measured. Only had a couple seconds to assess the situation, but it was clear that he was having no problem looking from side-to-side and his neck didn't look contorted. When I run my bars even 3" below saddle height, the first thing I notice is that I can't see much of anything except straight ahead - and to do that, I have to crane my neck to the max and I'm *still" partially peering over the tops of my glasses. Maybe arm/trunk length is a factor? I've always figured it has more to do with flexibility in the neck and shoulders, and curvature of the spine. Arm length is certainly an issue as well - if someone's arms are longer than average (and mine are somewhat), the difference can be translated into lower bar position without any more discomfort than someone with shorter arms and higher bars. An awful lot of it has to do with time on the bike, too. I often find that people will start out with a higher bar position, and will gravitate toward lower bars as they ride more and more miles. Eventually they become old farts and generally start raising the bars again. Probably looks like a bathtub curve if you were to plot it. Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $795 ti frame |
#46
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Correct Top Tube vs. Correct Frame Size
On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 18:27:04 -0700, Mark Hickey wrote:
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote: Per Mark Hickey: Though I don't doubt your bars are that low, I'm curious: how much time, or how often, do you ride in the drops? Quite a lot, actually. I'm very comfortable up in the ergo hooks for long, long periods of time. I wonder if there could be a body proportion issue in bar height. Some months ago, I went face-to-face with a guy about my size (6'4") who was riding an MTB whose bars must've been six inches lower than the saddle. I run mine at saddle height or even an inch above - depending on how the diff is measured. Only had a couple seconds to assess the situation, but it was clear that he was having no problem looking from side-to-side and his neck didn't look contorted. When I run my bars even 3" below saddle height, the first thing I notice is that I can't see much of anything except straight ahead - and to do that, I have to crane my neck to the max and I'm *still" partially peering over the tops of my glasses. Maybe arm/trunk length is a factor? I've always figured it has more to do with flexibility in the neck and shoulders, and curvature of the spine. Arm length is certainly an issue as well - if someone's arms are longer than average (and mine are somewhat), the difference can be translated into lower bar position without any more discomfort than someone with shorter arms and higher bars. An awful lot of it has to do with time on the bike, too. I often find that people will start out with a higher bar position, and will gravitate toward lower bars as they ride more and more miles. Eventually they become old farts and generally start raising the bars again. Probably looks like a bathtub curve if you were to plot it. Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $795 ti frame I definitely used to have a much lower position when I was in my 20s than now, in my 40s (though this year, I'm riding the most I've ever ridden). -- Bob in CT |
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