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scott genius limited
hi...recentlty bought ex-demo scott genius limited. it has pace 6"
travel forks. i've read the manuals for front & rear shocks put in the recommended pressures. it rides like a chopper i.e., the front forks feel a lot longer than my marin hardtail did. is this normal and is something i have to get used to or is there some way to balance this out. i have tried moving seat as far forward as it will go...i've moved the bars forward...one other question is it normal for the seat on a carbon frame to lower slowly i cant physically tighten the hope qr clamp any further but the post still creeps towards the land of oz |
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#2
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scott genius limited
Hi - I've got an MC-20 and had a similar problem with the seat post ...
I found that a small amount of chalk dust around the seat post fixes the problem after a couple of rides (however, bear in mind that my seat post is Alloy, not carbon). As for the suspension, the back end is far from easy to set up and, to be honest I didn't find the manual much good. I would recommend going to a local Scott dealer and asking them to show you how to set it up - my LBS was more than happy to do this. If you don't have any luck with your LBS, give me a shout and I'll try and give you some ideas. dogz******** wrote: hi...recentlty bought ex-demo scott genius limited. it has pace 6" travel forks. i've read the manuals for front & rear shocks put in the recommended pressures. it rides like a chopper i.e., the front forks feel a lot longer than my marin hardtail did. is this normal and is something i have to get used to or is there some way to balance this out. i have tried moving seat as far forward as it will go...i've moved the bars forward...one other question is it normal for the seat on a carbon frame to lower slowly i cant physically tighten the hope qr clamp any further but the post still creeps towards the land of oz |
#3
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scott genius limited
Dizbin wrote:
Hi - I've got an MC-20 and had a similar problem with the seat post ... I found that a small amount of chalk dust around the seat post fixes the problem after a couple of rides (however, bear in mind that my seat post is Alloy, not carbon). As for the suspension, the back end is far from easy to set up and, to be honest I didn't find the manual much good. I would recommend going to a local Scott dealer and asking them to show you how to set it up - my LBS was more than happy to do this. If you don't have any luck with your LBS, give me a shout and I'll try and give you some ideas. dogz******** wrote: thanx i'll try the chalk idea. my lbs sold me the bike but arent much cop... bit miserable too.. ....ive tried increasing rear shock pressures + & - ....inc lowering front shock pressures but it bottoms out... theres nothing wrong with the ride just feels that the front is like an old raleigh chopper i.e., feels like its high n long...i must say though that the lock out helps on climbs... luv the bike maybe just not used to race geometry. regards shaun |
#4
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scott genius limited
dogz******** wrote:
Dizbin wrote: Hi - I've got an MC-20 and had a similar problem with the seat post ... I found that a small amount of chalk dust around the seat post fixes the problem after a couple of rides (however, bear in mind that my seat post is Alloy, not carbon). As for the suspension, the back end is far from easy to set up and, to be honest I didn't find the manual much good. I would recommend going to a local Scott dealer and asking them to show you how to set it up - my LBS was more than happy to do this. If you don't have any luck with your LBS, give me a shout and I'll try and give you some ideas. dogz******** wrote: thanx i'll try the chalk idea. my lbs sold me the bike but arent much cop... bit miserable too.. ...ive tried increasing rear shock pressures + & - ....inc lowering front shock pressures but it bottoms out... theres nothing wrong with the ride just feels that the front is like an old raleigh chopper i.e., feels like its high n long...i must say though that the lock out helps on climbs... luv the bike maybe just not used to race geometry. regards shaun Hey - stick, with it, it took me 3 - 4 rides to get the back end sorted out. The bike is renown as being difficult to set up, but once its sorted its excellent. I'll put up some details on how I was shown how to sort it in the next couple of days, but kinda busy at the moment. |
#5
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scott genius limited
dogz******** wrote:
Dizbin wrote: Hi - I've got an MC-20 and had a similar problem with the seat post ... I found that a small amount of chalk dust around the seat post fixes the problem after a couple of rides (however, bear in mind that my seat post is Alloy, not carbon). As for the suspension, the back end is far from easy to set up and, to be honest I didn't find the manual much good. I would recommend going to a local Scott dealer and asking them to show you how to set it up - my LBS was more than happy to do this. If you don't have any luck with your LBS, give me a shout and I'll try and give you some ideas. dogz******** wrote: thanx i'll try the chalk idea. my lbs sold me the bike but arent much cop... bit miserable too.. ...ive tried increasing rear shock pressures + & - ....inc lowering front shock pressures but it bottoms out... theres nothing wrong with the ride just feels that the front is like an old raleigh chopper i.e., feels like its high n long...i must say though that the lock out helps on climbs... luv the bike maybe just not used to race geometry. regards shaun Ok, try this. Make sure that the rear shock is in full travel mode. Take all the air out of both the +ve and -ve chambers. Pump up the +ve chamber (small one) to the recommended pressure in the booklet as a starter. Pump up the -ve chamber until the piston just lifts - best way to do this is to look at the black band of oil/dirt that builds up on the piston rod above the rebound setting. Gently get on the bike and measure the sag (I found it was worth cutting a piece of stick to the correct length so that you can measure it yourself when your on the bike). Repeat the above process adjusting the pressure in the +ve chamber until the sag is correct (ie as recommended in the owners manual). This will give you a good starting point ... I weigh about 80kgs and need about 11 bar in the +ve chamber. Wind the rebound to the mid position as a starter (the + and - refer to the level of rebound damping, so turning the dial towards the + (clockwise) makes the rebound slower). Take it for a ride ... From here it a matter of adjusting to more or less sag until you feel right .. but this should give you a good starting point and stop the suspension from bottoming out. The one thing I've found is to always start by taking all the air out of both cylinder and not to try and just add to, or remove air from, either cylinder, as the whole thing goes out of balance. Some other thoughts - I've got two carbon spacers under the handle bars, have you tried lowering them by moving these round. My forks are Talas so can't add much on this front, however, I tend to wind down the forks to minimum travel when going up, and wind max travel for the downhills (apologies if this a stating the obvious). And finally, take a look at the What Mtb forum ... http://www.whatmtb.com/forum/ there's a number of Scott Genius owners there that are really helpful - and, I'm assuming you live in the UK, it might be worth asking on there if anyone can recommend a good LBS, as sooner or later you're going to have to get the bike serviced. Hope that's of some help. |
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