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#11
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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning
"1013" wrote in message ... I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot of build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain and I have read that you need special tools to remove it. Is there a single rivet that needs to be removed or does every link along the chain use a rivet which can be removed? The problem is my chain is so dirty I cannot see a thing. How much does the tool cost to remove the rivet? Are master links which allow easy chain removal just as strong as rivets? I'd remove the chain using a chain breaker, then give it a thorough clean. My preferred method is to soak in kero, but other solvents may be better - petrol has more nasties and catches fire more easily, so avoid that. I know people who seal the chain and kero in a container, Put a load in the washing machine and tape the container to the lid, and put a load through the machine. All that vibration really gets the gunk out. I can't get away with that method, so just swoosh it around with my hands - should wear gloves. Empty the dirty kero, and repeat, until the kero stays clean (or very close). This means there's no more dirt on or in the chain. You can recycle the solvent buy filtering it into a container, and then allowing the grit to settle before transferring to a new container. It never gets completely clean, so I use the recycled stuff for the first couple of cleans - not rinses. To rejoin the chain, Shimano sell special joining pins (last time I bought one I think it was less than $2). They strongly recommend against reusing the pin you pushed out. Alternatively, buy a joiner link - SRAM, Craig Super Links, and others all work well. Now you can take the chain off and clean it regularly. I really like that feature of joining links. Allow the chain to dry, then relube with lube of your choice. I like wax lubes for their cleanliness, but find they can lead to squeaking chains quickly, so nowadays I use a combo wet/wax lube (White Lightning Extreme). Not as clean, but doesn't squeak as quickly. Wipe off excess lube. Ride. HTH Tony F http://www.thefathippy.com |
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#12
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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning
"alex" wrote in message
oups.com... I use a chain cleaner machine: http://www.parktool.com/tools/CM_5.shtml along with a chain whip, cassette lock ring remover, rags and a toothbrush to clean my drivetrain. I use kerosene to remove the muck. Be very careful not to get the kero in your hubs/bottom bracket The chain cleaner machine look alright but I think my chain, etc needs something more since there is such a large build up of grime. I have read varying reports on the effectiveness of those machines (less thorough clean compared with soaking a chain in kero or a citrus degreaser but they seem to require the least effort compared with removing a chain. |
#13
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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning
1013 wrote: "alex" wrote in message I have read varying reports on the effectiveness of those machines (less thorough clean compared with soaking a chain in kero or a citrus degreaser but they seem to require the least effort compared with removing a chain. yep.. nothing beats taking the chain off.. but I don't have a link on mine |
#14
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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning
As the status quo on the replies have been to clean in kero etc (I hav used turps once – left over from painting the house), then I can’t se any problem in just removing your rear wheel & threading out the chai off the rear derailleur & front chain wheels, & just soak half of it fo a spell & then the other half, giving it abit of a scrub with an ol toothbrush (or equiv) in between. I go through heaps of rags too & mess a hell of a mess when I clean m chain like this. At least this way the awkwardness you have to put up with doing th clean means you don’t have to worry about breaking the chain. I re-lube with WD-40 first, run it through a rag heaps & then re-lub with proper bicycle chain lube. (Motorcycle chain lube is a little to heavy of this – I’ve found). Even after all this I still get some grinding noises from the chain fo the next 30kms, but it goes away, eventually …… -- Marx SS |
#15
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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning
alex wrote:
1013 wrote: "alex" wrote in message I have read varying reports on the effectiveness of those machines (less thorough clean compared with soaking a chain in kero or a citrus degreaser but they seem to require the least effort compared with removing a chain. yep.. nothing beats taking the chain off.. but I don't have a link on mine Breaking and rejoining a Shimano chain often ends in tears. Despite the technology there still seems to be an element of luck involved in getting it right, and you often end up having to do more than one join. If it ain't broke, don't break it. Zoom |
#16
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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning
Push out the link with a chain breaker. Clean the chain with a nic organic degreaser (Kenco is great if you dont like the environment) Buy a shimano 9 speed joining link (about $3) and push it in with th chain breaker. The latest shimano links are very easy to feel when i is in the correct position. If the link ends up stiff try using th chain breaker to push the link either way a fraction and you will fin it loosens up Then use a proper chain lube on the chain. I personally wouldn't le WD40, RP7 etc anywhere near my chain due to their effect of dispersin oil (they work quite well in cleaning up gunked up parts). If you d use them then you really should degrease your chain anyhow. Then you back to applying a proper lubricant anyhow If you have a cassette tool remove your cassette and clean it up usin the degreaser also. If you dont remove the cassette be careful whe using degreaser and the washing it off with a hose as you ca inadvertantly force degreaser into your hub / freewheel bearings Another option for the cassette is to remove the wheel from your bik and clean the cassette with a rag This all might sound like bit of a big job but when you have the chai clean and lubbed some routine maintenance keeps it pretty good wit minimal effort. I generally run the chain through a rag and give th cassette a rag clean every couple of weeks. Then reapply lubricant Keeps it all looking nice and shiny. (especially when you have a highe end cassette -- Paulie-AU |
#17
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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning
In article ,
"1013" wrote: there is such a large build up of grime It doesn't look pretty, but damage occurs on the inside of the chain, out of sight, and is caused by fine grit, not large clumps. -- Shane Stanley |
#18
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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning
1013 wrote:
I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot of build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain and I have read that you need special tools to remove it. Is there a single rivet that needs to be removed or does every link along the chain use a rivet which can be removed? The problem is my chain is so dirty I cannot see a thing. How much does the tool cost to remove the rivet? Are master links which allow easy chain removal just as strong as rivets? Thanks in advance. Photos of the chain, etc: http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/mtb1.jpg http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain1.jpg http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain2.jpg http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain3.jpg If it's been that bad for a while I reckon your chain is probably knackered anyway. Time to check the cassette and chainrings too. I've been using Connex joining links on all my bikes for years now. 8 and 9 speed links only cost $10 each and last forever (more or less) and they don't require tools to take off or put back on. -- Nick |
#19
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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning
On Thu, 4 Aug 2005, Paulie-AU wrote:
Push out the link with a chain breaker. Clean the chain with a nice organic degreaser (Kenco is great if you dont like the environment). Buy a shimano 9 speed joining link (about $3) and push it in with the chain breaker. The latest shimano links are very easy to feel when it is in the correct position. If the link ends up stiff try using the chain breaker to push the link either way a fraction and you will find it loosens up. Then use a proper chain lube on the chain. I personally wouldn't let WD40, RP7 etc anywhere near my chain due to their effect of dispersing oil (they work quite well in cleaning up gunked up parts). If you do use them then you really should degrease your chain anyhow. Then your back to applying a proper lubricant anyhow. If you have a cassette tool remove your cassette and clean it up using the degreaser also. If you dont remove the cassette be careful when using degreaser and the washing it off with a hose as you can inadvertantly force degreaser into your hub / freewheel bearings. Another option for the cassette is to remove the wheel from your bike and clean the cassette with a rag. This all might sound like bit of a big job but when you have the chain clean and lubbed some routine maintenance keeps it pretty good with minimal effort. I generally run the chain through a rag and give the cassette a rag clean every couple of weeks. Then reapply lubricant. Keeps it all looking nice and shiny. (especially when you have a higher end cassette) -- Paulie-AU Paulie, you know so much... I think I might follow Lotte's bike maintenance method, and get Paulie to fix it! Tam *winning smile* |
#20
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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning
"1013" == 1013 writes:
1013 Thanks guys for your advice. I actually live in Sydney. My 1013 e-mail address is unrelated to my name/location. *chuckle* for clarity I'm where my sig says, not where my email addy says ;-) Had it for over ten years and see no reason to change (too many mailing lists). -- Cheers | ~~ __@ Euan | ~~ _-\, Melbourne, Australia | ~ (*)/ (*) |
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